No More Power Steering...

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goldenmopar

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Well I bought a pair of Hedman headers for my Duster with a 318 in it. They were "supposed" to be compatible with power steering, but guess what, they aren't :banghead: This is the second time I've yanked headers in and out of my car, first pair was my fault because I bought the wrong headers, but these should have worked! I'll lose my sanity if I pull those headers out again. So I'm trying now to find a manual steering box and just ditch the power steering. Does anyone know of a place that sells used manual steering boxes? Still in high school and trying to pay off a 900 dollar speeding ticket so I don't have a big budget at all.
 
I had hooker headers that did not fit so don't try those either ,my 20 dollar headmans fit good but the steering link I had to dimple a little on some tubes and I have power steering.are you motor mount's good?
 
If youre on a budget i have a used box, give me $10 and pay to ship and its yours. Coming from 53085, you will also need to lengthen the steering shaft for the swap. Spline might be different as well? Someone might need to chime in on that one. My manual box is filled with grease though, im guessing the seals are bad. Worked good for me but if you want the thing to handle youll hate the new ratio. i went to power for that reason alone. That said your headers should fit, you just need to have patience bending and denting them til they work. What you save in money you pay for in time on the cheapo headers. Im only 21 myself, seems like just yesterday i was doing the same damn thing in my duster in high school. I fit mine around the PS box but it needed a lot of "massaging". This year im going tti's for fitment and ground clearance.
 
I had hooker headers that did not fit so don't try those either ,my 20 dollar headmans fit good but the steering link I had to dimple a little on some tubes and I have power steering.are you motor mount's good?
I'll have to check the mounts. This might sound stupid but i've never replaced motor mounts so how do you tell if they are bad?
 
What part number headers did you use?
 
The passenger side is in no problem in my duster, but the driver side i cannot get the steering box back in. Am i supposed to put the steering box in first? Help! Lol
 
Yes, the steering box must be installed before the headers. Did you read the instructions?
 
Yes, have the steering box installed.

Sometimes you have to un-bolt the engine mount and jack up the engine to wiggle them into place.

Also get the starter in place before securing the header, then secure the header and starter bolts after both are in place...

Some headers require you to drop the center link for the steering and one pipe hangs below the steering linkages... (beware if they hang too low below the k-frame, you will bang them up on the street on curbs and speed bumps...)

Sometimes you have to put a notch/dent in a pipe or two to get the clearance that you need...


I went back to exhaust manifolds......
 
I have been there with my 69 340 Barracuda. From your text, it sounds like you put in the driver's side header with the gearbox out, and now you can't get it back in. I have done this by myself, but a buddy helping would be nice. Try this, it has worked for me: First, unhook positive battery cable. Then protect inner fenders and firewall with blankets (you'll be glad you did because you will be wiggling around some heavy parts). Then remove all but two of the header bolts (the two you leave in should be easy ones to get out) . Then get the front end up in the air and on some good, heavy duty jack stands. Then unbolt both motor mounts from the K-frame. Then use a floor jack under the driver's side of the oil pan (with wood or something else for protection) to lift the drivers side of the motor up a few inches for extra clearance. Then loosen the last two header bolts. If you have a helper. one person holds the headers up with the front of the flange up in the air and the collectors pointing down. This will get the header up and back out of the way of where the steering box needs to go. Then the other person should be able to wiggle the steering box into place. I have done it myself with the headers in one hand and the steering box in the other, wiggling them both, but it isn't fun. Like I said, it has worked for me. I wish you lived nearby, I'd come over to help, and we'd be done in an hour.
 
Same problem on a 1970 340 swinger... NEVER again will I install a set of long tube headers!!! buy a set of shorties and spend the extra cash... total B.S. and when I remove them it will be with a sawsall. Just saying, you still have problems coming,; starter clearance, steering linkage clearance, rattles to chase because of tight tolerances, over heating of the starter.
 
changed the oil pan on my 318 dart swinger.I had use of a lift so it was easier not laying on the ground.

I did all of what he mentioned above except i removed the center link from the steering(mine runs through the center on that header) then when loosened the motor mount bolts and lifted the drivers side of the motor the header came right out
 
Same problem on a 1970 340 swinger... NEVER again will I install a set of long tube headers!!! buy a set of shorties and spend the extra cash... total B.S. and when I remove them it will be with a sawsall. Just saying, you still have problems coming,; starter clearance, steering linkage clearance, rattles to chase because of tight tolerances, over heating of the starter.

He never mentioned what type of headers they are. Contrary to your negative comments about long tube headers, I had zero problems installing those total BS headers (TTI's) as you call them.
 
He never mentioned what type of headers they are. Contrary to your negative comments about long tube headers, I had zero problems installing those total BS headers (TTI's) as you call them.

I believe he said Hedman...and as far as installing headers theres no other brand i'll be ever using but TTI'S no problem installing them what so ever on my '70 duster took about 40 minutes,the extra cost also saves you time...any other brand would be hours to put on and sitting too low wacking on everything unless you drive 3 mph...
 
Well i'm gonna give it another shot today, won't have a lot of time to work on it. If anything they'll be done tomorrow. Hopefully:cheers:
 
I've installed hedmans. Unbolt the drivers motor mount. Remove starter. Raise the motor up about 3-4 inches (jack on oil pan favoring the drivers side to "tilt motor). The center link on the "steering arms" needs to be run through the header. By the way, the header installs from the underneath of the car, so the car will need to be on ramps. Steering box needs to be already installed. It's a fight, but not at all that miserable. More of a pain once it is in for reasons you will find out as time goes on... lol
 
Damn that would be a $240.00 ticket here..good ole "commiefornia"..:D:D
 
Damn that would be a $240.00 ticket here..good ole "commiefornia"..:D:D

Hey...Calipornia is a GREAT place, in fact...California is the only place where the most beautiful women...............................ARE MEN!!!!!!

Treblig
 
You've still never said 100% that you tried to install these with the gear box out, or if you read the instructions.
 
My 68 came with Hedmans and they have to be the absolute WORST for fitment. I went to a spool type K frame and manual steering several years ago. The headers were already in the car when I got it. It was a royal PITA just to get them out. The full size starter, PS box and the driver side header formed a triangular Rubik's cube. Even with the starter and header unbolted it just would not come out. Then after changing over to the spool mounts (new poly mounts) the pipe interference I had went from the top side of the center link to the bottom. The manual box improved things but I was mostly glad to get that heavy slimy PS box off the car. One of the guys in the Barracuda Group finally took his off and posted pictures of them laying in the drive after cutting them into little pieces with a Sawzall.
Simple is good.
 
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