Non Factory main bearing bolt torque.

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Small Block Duster

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Hello. I'm new to the forum. I I have experience hot rodding and circle track (dirt) racing but not with Mopars and since I started my Duster project I've realized that some of my knowledge of other brands doesn't necessarily apply. I've been watching here for a while and have found some very knowledgeable people. To my question, I am building a 360 for my Duster and have the block already machined and the line bore checked. I am using the stock main bearing cap bolts. I bought a Kevko oil pan and the oil pump pickup requires a mounting stud such as windage tray mounting bolts. I can find no stock bolts. Only studs and I don't want to have to line bore the block now that it is already finished. I ordered a Mopar Performance windage tray hardware kit from Mancini racing, item # MOPP3690939. It looks to be all 10 main cap bolts and at least one of which and maybe four have the small shank stud at the end of the bolt to mount a tray or in my case an oil pump pickup tube. I can't find a torque spec anywhere. Mancini racing didn't know and they didn't have any information with that part either. I went to my machinist who had an old Mopar performance publication that had all kinds of engine building information but I found nothing regarding Mopar performance main cap bolts. My first question is, are the parts that are being sold now days by Mancini racing and others as Mopar Performance parts the same as what used to be Direct Connection over the counter parts? In other words, are these truly Mopar bolts or whoever made bolts for Mopar. I'm hoping that the parts being sold as Mopar Performance have not changed to an off brand (overseas) that is being marketed under their name. My other question is, should these be torqued to 85 foot pounds, using oil on the threads, just like stock bolts, as quoted in all the manuals? Sorry for the long winded text, this is the first time I've ever posted a question anywhere. I appreciate your help thank you.
 
The parts you got should work fine, I think torquing them to stock spec w/light bit of oil using factory service procedure like you say is good... anybody disagree? It might be helpful to hit up the machine shop to see how much they torqued the main caps when checking the mains so you get the same result on installation.

It's also good you are taking the time to research the correct procedures for Mopars, some people don't do that and end up with boat anchors. I'm kind of the opposite, started off with Mopars and fiddled with a Ford or two but Chevy stuff is... well for sure 'different' than what I'm used to we'll just leave it at that LOL

Welcome to the forum btw!
 
Better check the distance from the pan pickup to the bottom. I had to extend my pickup to get it lower in the pan and I'm not the only one who has had to modify the pick up. Now, this was on the non-360 pan but you'd better make sure you have proper clearance.

I believe the factor widage tray bolts have the raised boss for the tray mounting bolts. I would torque to what the manual says for factory bolts. When my block was line honed with studs, the shop put the torque value they used and what lube. ARP lube torque it different then 30 wt oil torque. So you might ask you machine shop as well.
 
Thank you. I will torque them to factory spec and I will talk to my machine shop again. I will also do a oil pump pickup depth inspection with my pan on prior to doing more work to the engine. I appreciate your help.
 
Also on my kevco pan the drain plug is forward of the sump baffle. So it traps about 1 -1 1/2 quarts of oil in the sump when changing the oil. I just added another drain plug at the rear.
 
Torque to stock specs... What you are wanting is the same clamping force, and as long as the threads are the same shape, pitch, and finish, the clamping force will end up the same with the FSM torque numbers.
 
Thank you for the advice, guys, I appreciate it. I'm interested to see what these bolts look like when they finally arrive. I'm going to torque them to stock spec. Thank you for the warning on the Kevco oil pan as well. It's going to be a lot easier to weld a sepate oil plug-in now rather than later!
 
Small Block Duster said:
Thank you for the advice, guys, I appreciate it. I'm interested to see what these bolts look like when they finally arrive. I'm going to torque them to stock spec. Thank you for the warning on the Kevco oil pan as well. It's going to be a lot easier to weld a sepate oil plug-in now rather than later!
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My Mopar performance windage tray attachment main cap bolt kit showed up from Mancini today. It was packaged by Mopar in a bag that said Mopar and made in the USA. Hopefully it's still made by who ever used to make bolts for Mopar. I'm going to torque them to 85 foot pounds per the advice I have gotten here. One thing strange to me, the washers that came with the kit for between the main cap bolts and the main caps are concave. I suppose you could call them convex depending on which side you install them on. I'm not sure which side is supposed to be towards the bolt and which side is supposed to be towards the main cap, but if I had to guess I would say the convex part goes towards the bolt and the concave part goes towards the main cap. I have never seen this style washer before and so it gives me some pause. What do you guys think?
 
Small Block Duster said:
My Mopar performance windage tray attachment main cap bolt kit showed up from Mancini today. It was packaged by Mopar in a bag that said Mopar and made in the USA. Hopefully it's still made by who ever used to make bolts for Mopar. I'm going to torque them to 85 foot pounds per the advice I have gotten here. One thing strange to me, the washers that came with the kit for between the main cap bolts and the main caps are concave. I suppose you could call them convex depending on which side you install them on. I'm not sure which side is supposed to be towards the bolt and which side is supposed to be towards the main cap, but if I had to guess I would say the convex part goes towards the bolt and the concave part goes towards the main cap. I have never seen this style washer before and so it gives me some pause. What do you guys think?
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To be more clear, I have never seen this type of washer used for main cap bolts or anything that required very specific torque numbers.
 
I ran into this same issue. I ended up using the factory main bolts and called Kevko and they got me one of the bolts you are describing for around $15-20. It has been working great for 3000 miles or so, just recently had it apart again and the bearings looked good.

IMG_3963.jpg
 
I'm glad Kevko was able to get you the bolt. They couldn't answer my question but they gave me a part number to a Ford Cleveland bolt How long ago was it when this happened?
 
RE: snailpower
I read your old thread after you directed me to it. I tried the same thing with Kevko about getting the bolt and on their website they show a proper bolt by ARP for a small block Chrysler to mount the windage tray or the oil pump pickup. Kevko didn't have it and after a couple of calls to ARP I came to the conclusion they didn't make one or they stopped making one. No stock small-block Mopar bolts new or used to be found anywhere. That weren't already in engines that is. Kevko mentioned a Ford cleveland bolt as did ARP. We found out this was a bolt that was supposed to be torqued to 100 foot pounds with ARP grease. My machinist said the torque on the bolt would be a lot different because of the recommended ARP grease. I just made the decision not to run the Cleveland bolt then I ran into the Mancini bolts. It probably would have worked fine. I'm glad you were able to get yours sorted out.
 
Small Block Duster said:
RE: snailpower
I read your old thread after you directed me to it. I tried the same thing with Kevko about getting the bolt and on their website they show a proper bolt by ARP for a small block Chrysler to mount the windage tray or the oil pump pickup. Kevko didn't have it and after a couple of calls to ARP I came to the conclusion they didn't make one or they stopped making one. No stock small-block Mopar bolts new or used to be found anywhere. That weren't already in engines that is. Kevko mentioned a Ford cleveland bolt as did ARP. We found out this was a bolt that was supposed to be torqued to 100 foot pounds with ARP grease. My machinist said the torque on the bolt would be a lot different because of the recommended ARP grease. I just made the decision not to run the Cleveland bolt then I ran into the Mancini bolts. It probably would have worked fine. I'm glad you were able to get yours sorted out.
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What a bummer! Yeah I recently tried to just get new magnum main bolts and those are out of production as well. I will definitely be hanging onto that main bolt in light of your post.

I found it weird that kevko doesn’t direct you that you need one in the oil pan information page. I would have just done a line hone with main studs from the get go had I known. I was already way past machine work stage when I went to install the pan.

I wonder if you could just run that arp and torque using oil and treat it as if it were a regular main bolt?
 
snailpower said:
What a bummer! Yeah I recently tried to just get new magnum main bolts and those are out of production as well. I will definitely be hanging onto that main bolt in light of your post.

I found it weird that kevko doesn’t direct you that you need one in the oil pan information page. I would have just done a line hone with main studs from the get go had I known. I was already way past machine work stage when I went to install the pan.

I wonder if you could just run that arp and torque using oil and treat it as if it were a regular main bolt?
Click to expand...
 
I'm running the Mancini bolts and torquing them to stock spec. They're advertised as Mopar performance 340 360 bolts for a windage tray. I'm taking the advice of a lot of the replies I've gotten from this forum and I'm going to treat them as if they are stock. I was originally going to run a stock oil pan but I switched to the Kevko pan. My block was already machined and the final cleaning had been done so I didn't want to take it back to the machine shop and put studs in. But after talking to people on this forum I'm going to treat the bolts as if they are stock.
 
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