Coming right along. Now all you need is a custom bumper sticker that says "Not fast, just less slow"
Not Fast, just "Less Slow"
- Thread starter KosmicKuda
- Start date
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I've been working on the car just not posting lately.
Back to the I can't leave things alone department.
I saw Dutra's cam thrust "button" idea on slantsix.com so this is my version.
Marked the inside of the timing cover with a sharpened 7/16-14 stud.
Turned a threaded bung on a lathe and tig welded it to the cover. One of the young guns on FABO had a problem when his cam gear decided to leave the cam so I took a look at the cam gear thread engagement. The threaded hole is deep enough in the cam for a 1/4" longer screw so I got a Grade 8 and polished the face. Used a 3/8-24 screw in the front cover and locked it with a nut after adjusting the depth so it left a little clearance with face of the cam bolt. (1/4 turn from contact) I'll see how it goes.
Back to the I can't leave things alone department.
I saw Dutra's cam thrust "button" idea on slantsix.com so this is my version.
Marked the inside of the timing cover with a sharpened 7/16-14 stud.
Turned a threaded bung on a lathe and tig welded it to the cover. One of the young guns on FABO had a problem when his cam gear decided to leave the cam so I took a look at the cam gear thread engagement. The threaded hole is deep enough in the cam for a 1/4" longer screw so I got a Grade 8 and polished the face. Used a 3/8-24 screw in the front cover and locked it with a nut after adjusting the depth so it left a little clearance with face of the cam bolt. (1/4 turn from contact) I'll see how it goes.
Interestin' to say the least. I am "assuming" you are sealing the threads on that bolt "somehow". If not, I would recommend Permatex #2 there as it will not fully harden and you will be able to make adjustments without breaking the seal.
Good point Rusty, I'll do that.
Still not leaving things alone....I baffled the pan during lunch. Took about an hour total. Not that I'm going to be doing any road racing or hole shots on the way to the ice cream store on Sundays but it was just a little time and scrap sheet metal. Just too easy to do.
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Still not leaving things alone....I baffled the pan during lunch. Took about an hour total. Not that I'm going to be doing any road racing or hole shots on the way to the ice cream store on Sundays but it was just a little time and scrap sheet metal. Just too easy to do.
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Outside view. Don't need that many welds but I like welding. 
Speedi-sleeve on damper. Actually an SKF part that came in a Timken box.
Speedi-sleeve on damper. Actually an SKF part that came in a Timken box.
I saw Dutra's article about making a cam gear squirter so i did that too. Drilled and tapped the unused chamber in the oil pump area for 1/4" NPT. Bought some .060 O.D. stainless tubing (.03 I.D). Drilled a hole in a 1/4" pipe plug, countersunk it. press fit the tubing into it and soldered around the countersink. Also made a standpipe so the oil does not drain out when the engine is off. Aimed it at the cam gear and will hope for the best.
I/m further along than this but trying to keep it in sequence. Pre-painted some of the engine bolt-ons so I could get paint on their backsides.
Engine Assembly is almost done. Cam is #818 regrind from Oregon Cams. Some before and after pics.
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I have not posted for a while but I try to do something on the car every day. Even if it's only a half hour.
Cleaned up the trans and inspected the guts. Looked OK so it will do for now.
Rebuilt the carb while watching the Browns on TV last week. That way I didn't feel guilty about taking time off.
Before and after pics. It's unusual for me to see inspection mark paint daubs because in the rust belt they are usually long gone due to rust, corrosion, and just age of parts. I never even knew the trans tail housing was aluminum until I scraped off the muck. One thing about oil-soaked parts is it preserves the metal underneath.
I have the bottom of the car completely cleaned but only half painted. The forward half of the underside will be getting paint this week. Pics next post.
Still trying to get this thing driveable before winter.
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Cleaned up the trans and inspected the guts. Looked OK so it will do for now.
Rebuilt the carb while watching the Browns on TV last week. That way I didn't feel guilty about taking time off.
Before and after pics. It's unusual for me to see inspection mark paint daubs because in the rust belt they are usually long gone due to rust, corrosion, and just age of parts. I never even knew the trans tail housing was aluminum until I scraped off the muck. One thing about oil-soaked parts is it preserves the metal underneath.
I have the bottom of the car completely cleaned but only half painted. The forward half of the underside will be getting paint this week. Pics next post.
Still trying to get this thing driveable before winter.
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Carb looks nice. I just bought a rebuild kit for my Holley 1920. Any particular issues I should be aware of?
Max, mine is a Carter BBS. I used the instructions with the carb kit (pretty poor illustrations) and a FSM to make the adjustments at reassembly. I would have to say the float adjustment is most critical. The other bend-the-rod-here stuff and measure with a drill bit or ruler seemed to be pretty much OK. But I still checked them.
I cheated as I separated the carb into 3 main components and cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner. I really should have removed all the screw-in parts before cleaning and should have kept it in the tank longer but it came out alright. This car has not been driven since 1982 so it was interesting to see the ball bearing check valve frozen in place.
Had a cute little metering rod just like the big brother AFB and AVS carbs. Everything about this drivetrain seems to be 3/4 size of the later A-bods. Except the length of the block, wow, it's long.
EVERY bolt-on item is off the underside from the firewall back is off. I was sitting on the concrete floor working on the left rear brake when the fuel tank suddenly started to leak. Pinholes under the tank strap. That was it. EVERYTHING came out after that.
Pictures of the before and after fuel system. Note no ground strap on the sending unit. I have no idea if the fuel gauge worked but I checked the original sending unit with an ohm meter and it had a nice linear sweep so I kept it. Float had fuel in it and the sock was deteriorated.
I got my fuel tank stuff from Vans Auto. Fuel tank is not installed yet as I am not done cleaning the bottom/painting the bottom of the car.
Fuel line is in great shape but sections of the long brake line are rusty and just waiting to leak.
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Very enjoyable read. Subscribed.
Everything was mostly covered in road dirt, surface rust, slime from the leaking engine/trans/rear end and of course the factory dark gray paint from the celebrated factory body dipping at the factory. A correctly restored car would be that dark gray color underneath with overspray along the rockers from the body color paint. Really the cars that are flawlessly painted underneath in body color are incorrect, restoration wise. It was a dip process and as the car was lifted out of the giant tank, it created little stalagtites of dripping paint. Well, I didn't go to that extreme as only weird-os like me get down on their hands and knees and look under cars at shows. So this one is black and I didnt remove the paint drips that were there, just painted over them. There were only 2 small areas that had rust-through near the front spring hangers where the sheet metal floor panels overlap.
So...after spending a long time laying on cardboard over several weeks with a Wildcat grinder with a large cone-shaped wire wheel, various other wire brushes on other rotary tools including a common drill, I degreased the bottom starting with a rag and kerosene. Then as it got cleaner after a couple passes, I switched to lacquer thinner and prep-sol. I kept finding areas that needed to be redone so it took quite awhile. Way longer than I thought. I did it in two stages because my intent was to get the car on the road ASAP and I was only intending to do the rear half while the springs and axle were out. Well I did the back half then took a look and decided to do the whole thing. I even ended up removing the torsion bars. So I could do a thorough job. The only things I masked were the body plugs.
Now I'm looking at the totally stripped engine compartment. I was thinking of NOT doing it to try to keep the survivor patina but with a shiny red engine soon plugging the hole I'm thinking now is the time.
First coat on the bottom was Eastwoods rust encapsulator with a top coat of Extreme Chassis Black. Spray cans do make it easy to apply. The chassis black is a little more glossy than I would like but it should develop a nice patina over the next fifty years. Living in the rust belt has made me RPO (Rust Prevention Obsessed). Not concours correct but durable and functional. Eastwood has just opened their third store not far from me so it's easy to pick this stuff up and the counter guys recognize me when I walk in. Probably close to $200 in materials though.The pictures aren't the greatest because everything is black and I'm still laying on my back.
Just dont let me catching you on your knees looking underneath.
So...after spending a long time laying on cardboard over several weeks with a Wildcat grinder with a large cone-shaped wire wheel, various other wire brushes on other rotary tools including a common drill, I degreased the bottom starting with a rag and kerosene. Then as it got cleaner after a couple passes, I switched to lacquer thinner and prep-sol. I kept finding areas that needed to be redone so it took quite awhile. Way longer than I thought. I did it in two stages because my intent was to get the car on the road ASAP and I was only intending to do the rear half while the springs and axle were out. Well I did the back half then took a look and decided to do the whole thing. I even ended up removing the torsion bars. So I could do a thorough job. The only things I masked were the body plugs.
Now I'm looking at the totally stripped engine compartment. I was thinking of NOT doing it to try to keep the survivor patina but with a shiny red engine soon plugging the hole I'm thinking now is the time.
First coat on the bottom was Eastwoods rust encapsulator with a top coat of Extreme Chassis Black. Spray cans do make it easy to apply. The chassis black is a little more glossy than I would like but it should develop a nice patina over the next fifty years. Living in the rust belt has made me RPO (Rust Prevention Obsessed). Not concours correct but durable and functional. Eastwood has just opened their third store not far from me so it's easy to pick this stuff up and the counter guys recognize me when I walk in. Probably close to $200 in materials though.The pictures aren't the greatest because everything is black and I'm still laying on my back.
Just dont let me catching you on your knees looking underneath.
Personally, I wouldn't paint the underhood area black because then you can't see anything -- it soaks up all the light you can put on it (which usually isn't much anyway). But what color is the car?
I saw the taillight of the 'Cuda in one of those pix. What's its status?
I saw the taillight of the 'Cuda in one of those pix. What's its status?
I've been trying to get a new sock for my tank sending unit. Where did you get yours?
And if you want a tip: I cleaned the inaccessible part of the sending unit - where the wiper is - with ketchup. Worked great! Just fill the whole thing up (I used Heinz) and let it sit for an hour or so then rinse thoroughly. Removes those ugly oxides and residues.
If you wrap it up with cling film or a plastic bag it won't dry up and will be easier to rinse off.
Tip originally from Bad Sport.
And if you want a tip: I cleaned the inaccessible part of the sending unit - where the wiper is - with ketchup. Worked great! Just fill the whole thing up (I used Heinz) and let it sit for an hour or so then rinse thoroughly. Removes those ugly oxides and residues.
If you wrap it up with cling film or a plastic bag it won't dry up and will be easier to rinse off.
Tip originally from Bad Sport.
Nice work ,Kosmic ... The attention to detail ,on a /6 is impressive. I always thought,the last two survived species : Would be /6 Mopars & ,that annoying cockroach thing( meant as humor,great thread!).
Max, the car is black so the underhood will be black. Red interior and white top. I was led to believe this car only needed a carb rebuild and minor electrical work to get running (off the road since 1982) so I thought I'd be driving by spring. Spring 2015 not 2016! I was just hoping to drive it around as a barn find with minimal cleanup. But as I got into the engine it became more apparent how bad everything was. Clogged oil passages, yucky coolant passages, locked up engine, etc.
The dominoes started falling and one thing led to another, the drive train is out and the bottom stripped. I was NOT going to paint the engine compartment but.....I'm taking Thursday off work and I'll probably start prepping for engine compartment paint.
The cuda is my driver with very little done on the body since you saw it last. I have new AMD quarters and rear valance, new tail lights, nicer deck trim all waiting for the big re-do but first I need to get the Valiant running so I have an old car to putz around in. I converted the cuda to BBP using resplined c-body axles, 15 X 7 steelies all around, 10" x 2-1/2" rear brakes with 73-76 A body front discs, spool mount K with poly engine mounts, rebuilt front suspension w/ Moog offset upper bushings, 16:1 manual steering, .92 T-bars, came with Espo HD rear springs, 3.23 SG 8-3/4. 904 but I have all the stuff for a 4 speed conversion. I've been inside the motor and the shortblock is good, pocket ported the heads, best ET 14.77right off the street with the 318.
It's a great driver and I'd take it anywhere in the country. Thanks for asking.
HEY! I just read the first 3 pages of your resto thread today. Nice work! I met Ulf at the Mopar Nats this year. It's very impressive to see you Euro guys restoring American cars.
I got my fuel tank items from Vansauto.com I talked a little about it a few posts ago.
If you have problems getting stuff, just ask and I'll see what I can do to help.
It's not too late for me to try the ketchup thing but mine checked out pretty good with an ohmmeter. I'm thinking vinegar would work too.
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I love the Leaning Tower of Power!!, had one in my '72 Valiant.
It's an immortal sewing machine fueled by the hate of the ages!
I suggest..
-Later electronic distributor wired up with a GM HEI module
-Converting to a "Super Six" intake and carb
-Mount intake/exhaust manifold at 1/2 torque to head. bolt intake/exhaust manifolds together at full torque. Remove from head as an assembly, have the machine shop surface them together to facilitate the sealing on the head.
-Don't fight with the old intake/exhaust manifold studs/buttons. You can buy a new complete set from the Dodge dealership for like $9, worth every penny.
-Install some nice bright underhood lighting, becuase everywhere you go, people will want to see it!
It's an immortal sewing machine fueled by the hate of the ages!
I suggest..
-Later electronic distributor wired up with a GM HEI module
-Converting to a "Super Six" intake and carb
-Mount intake/exhaust manifold at 1/2 torque to head. bolt intake/exhaust manifolds together at full torque. Remove from head as an assembly, have the machine shop surface them together to facilitate the sealing on the head.
-Don't fight with the old intake/exhaust manifold studs/buttons. You can buy a new complete set from the Dodge dealership for like $9, worth every penny.
-Install some nice bright underhood lighting, becuase everywhere you go, people will want to see it!
67 Power Wagon
Hemi Pawr or BUST!
The Slant looks very well done for the price...... GREAT story BETTER ending then I was suspecting.....
Why, thank you! I haven't really done much yet other than taking it apart more rather than putting it together like I thought I would. Much like yourself, apparently.
Let me take a guess, Ulf is on the right, in the jeans shorts and you have the MOPAR T-shirt?
I'm nowhere near Ulf in attention to detail or ambition. Really, not on the same planet, but he's being extremely helpful along with Don and moparmatt. I'm expecting a crank pulley in the mail from Ulf any day now, plus a temp gauge and a pair of strut rods few other bits and pieces. Hope I'll be able to return the favor somehow some day.
Just the other day another swede showed up in Ulf's thread, turns out he lives maybe five miles from me. Small world.
Anyway, I'll check out Vansauto. Thanks! :thumblef:
Don't want to hijack the thread, but... It has a wee bit of surging at idle, but I only drove it around the block, so it wasn't really warm enough to set the idle mixture. I would say the shafts are "loose-ish", not horrible (I've seen "horrible" on SU carbs). Rebuild was to fix the stalling issue -- I think adjusting the choke pulloff might have fixed that. I hope.
Back to Dennis's car -- that's awesome that it's black. Didn't mean to ride you <grin>. Glad the 68 is in good shape. I'm trying to get my slanty into "drive anywhere" condition. Of course, I've already driven it to Spring Fling and on the California Melee last month, but with the stalling-at-idle thing I couldn't let anyone else drive it. It was making my co-driver Ron smoke at the ears -- I had to take over and iron man the last two days. Next up is the dashboard boogie -- the instruments and dash lights are on-again/off-again on a day-to-day basis.
White vinegar does excellent for cleaning fuel components, but don't get in a hurry it can take weeks, keep the parts fully submerged in and a sealed container.
Thanks to everybody for the nice comments. Going back to my first entry I always wanted a /6. (By the way I have a complete 1969 a-body 340 engine/4 speed/8-3/4 drivetrain sitting here doing absolutely nothing) I was hoping to get the car running pretty much stock and experience the...well..../6 experience! I was planning on making upgrades in years to come after absorbing some of the driving experience. It has now gone beyond 100% stock.
Yes an HEI upgrade is in my future plans. So is a 2 barrel. I see a turbo in the future as well. I will probably start collecting parts for a 4 speed OD conversion to get away from the 3 on the tree. I drove down and bought a pair of 65 Barracuda seats and a floor shift steering column from a FABO member in Virginia.I also have received the Legendary 64 Signet seat covers and buns in red but that's a winter project for sure.
I had absolutely no intention of buying these wheels at Monster Mopar show last month but I think they would look good on the car. A true Mopar guy will recognize the 15" x 7" 81-82 Mirada 10 spoke FORGED factory wheels. Gotta be the highest quality wheels Chrysler put on the older cars. If I go that route it means a conversion to BBP.
But for now I'm just trying to get the car driveable.
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