Not pumping??

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Which way is the cupped washer supposed to go? I would assume it is with the cupped side towards the cam so it will grip the eccentric at the outer edge of the cupped washer; looks perhaps like it was run opposite before? If it is in the right way, then it just may be worn down from all the prior spinning, or is bent back. With an added washer, I would put in a hardened washer, not a soft or standard washer, with some 'teeth' raised on the both sides with a chisel, to try keep things from spinning at all. I would be fearing that any movement would eventually cause the key be worn off again eventually. Also, I would put a smaller washer against the cam end to make sure the bolt is torqued against the cam end if the other washer is setting the cupped washer further out.

Can you get a new cupped washer?
 
That's a very good question!! Which way IS the cupped washer suppose to go on??
 
nm9stheham said:
With an added washer, I would put in a hardened washer, not a soft or standard washer, with some 'teeth' raised on the both sides with a chisel, to try keep things from spinning at all. I would be fearing that any movement would eventually cause the key be worn off again eventually. Also, I would put a smaller washer against the cam end to make sure the bolt is torqued against the cam end if the other washer is setting the cupped washer further out.

Can you get a new cupped washer?
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The cup of the washer goes toward the cam/ecsentric, and is of sufficient diameter to clear the cam and key,.. perhaps just re-cupping the washer will suffice, (BFH)

Its purpose is to pull the cam forward into contact with the timing gear pressing the cam/excentric firmly against the camsaft, creating the specific clearances necessary for the thrustplate,.

My concern is that any washers/spacers between the cam and cup-washer may increase the cams forward/backward motion beyond acceptable limits..

Or is there a reason the cam cannot come thru the timing gear enuff to engage the key correctly.?? Timing gear too thick??

Can we get a pic of how much the new key is exposed past the timing gear, pls.. tia

hope it helps..
 
So THAT'S why it wasn't tight to start with!! The cupped washer was facing OUT when I took it apart!! Makes complete cense now!!!

Btw post #46 shows a pic of the key clearance.
 
Here's a coupla pics showing how much key is exposed.. there's 100 thou of key exposed,, should be lots to get a bite, with the cupped washer the right way.. lol.. cheers

hope it helps
 

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75slant6 said:
So THAT'S why it wasn't tight to start with!! The cupped washer was facing OUT when I took it apart!! Makes complete cense now!!!

Btw post #46 shows a pic of the key clearance.
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Yup....it's good when such mysteries are solved. Can't tell for sure from the pix but it looks like the key will extend nearly through the thickness of the eccentric. The cam end should extend all the way through the eccentric when in place and a bit more. In that fashion, the center of the washer can compress all the way down to the cam end, and the washer cup's rim presses the eccentric hard against the gear face; that clamps the eccentric in place pretty well and the key is then does not have to do as much work for holding the eccentric in place..

And yes, the comments on the added washers vs the cam end play is right on, such washer stacking has to be done right if done at all. Check the end play on the cam once this is clamped right.

Did you look at the back side of the old cam gear and the thrust plate on the block? The thought is that with the old cup washer assembled backwards, the cam gear and thus the cam may have been walking forwards and backwards. If it the cam moved back a lot and this was in place for a while, then the cam lobes and lifters may be worn in together in a certain way, and tightening things up may move the cam forward (to where it shoudl havae been all along) and the wear contact points will change and the cam will now wear down rapidly. It depends a lot on how long this was run with the cup wahser backwards.

Don't mean to panic you! Anyone else's comments on that point should be heard too. Maybe you just put it back to gether right, hope nothing was worn differently, and see what happens. In some engines, you can pull up a lifter pretty easily to inspect for this but I am not sure on this one.
 
Lol! Thanks a lot guys!! It's all starting to make sense! I'll get pics of the old gear tonight and hopefully get this thing buttoned up!!
 
The big Question is what does the rear cam plug look like???? Is it worn through, is it pushed out ... Either way if it leaks oil from the rear of the engine that will be a dead give away....Bill
 
pro-tech said:
The big Question is what does the rear cam plug look like???? Is it worn through, is it pushed out ... Either way if it leaks oil from the rear of the engine that will be a dead give away....Bill
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I shall find out as soon as I get it buttoned up and get the cooling system flushed and hooked up to where I can run it for awhile. The longest I've run it so for was maybe 15-20 seconds by dumpin gas in the carb.
 
If I'd had gas I woulda fired her up!!! Got it all back together other than the water pump pully, fan and alternator. Don't even have any extra bolts left!!! Lol she looks a little ratty but she's beautiful to me!! Lol

View attachment image.jpg
 
Well.. It runs!! But it BADLY needs to be tuned and its detonating :( what causes that? Too much timing?
 
Good job,, Yes, ease off the timing, get a light on it asap..

Wishing you lotsa miles with lotsa smiles.. cheers
 
16* BTDC only because of the ethanol fuel... The better way is to time it to total advance at 2500 RPMs... The normal spec for initial timing is 12* with vacuum advance unhooked and plugged... But because of the Ethanol in the gas you need a little more...Bill
 
She purrs!!!! Idk what all has been done to this engine but it has an AWESOME sounding idle!!! It's definitely got a bigger cam in it!! I've got video of it running but don't have a YouTube or photo bucket account so if someone would like to post it for me just PM me n I'll email it to you!!
 
Hmmm.... No one wants video... That's a first!! Lol

I have been having some issues... Friday night it fired up n ran great, Saturday I absolutely couldn't get it to start (think I'd flooded it) Saturday night I finally got it running again for 20-30 seconds then it sputtered out n wouldn't start up again, just cranked n cranked. Any ideas here??

Also, maybe I'm wrong but Idt headers are suppose to get HOT (sizzle when spit on) after 15-20 seconds of running are these?? They also smoke occasionally.. Normally it's the very front or very back tubes that do it... Headers aren't painted or coated, have been touched in pry 20+ years.. Thoughts?
 
Also, maybe I'm wrong but Idt headers are suppose to get HOT (sizzle when spit on) after 15-20 seconds of running are these?? They also smoke occasionally.. Normally it's the very front or very back tubes that do it... Headers aren't painted or coated, have been touched in pry 20+ years.. Thoughts?

Your going to have to translate this one. I have no idea what you just said!
 
When it dies and won't restart,, get out and look down the carb,, work the throttle a few times,, seeing if it squirts gas,, if you see gas, go crank it,, see if it starts,, if it won't start and you definately saw gas, then, check for spark..

If no gas,, check fuel filter/pump, etc and all rubber hoses on the suctions side of the pump back to the tankfor kinks,,cracks, or loose connections,, somewhere it can suck air... take the gas cap off , listening for suction, ie plugged vent.,,

if no spark,, "search" - "no spark" lol

and yes, headers get sizzle hot in a few seconds, I've got scars to prove it..

hope it helps
 
inertia said:
If no gas,, check fuel filter/pump, etc and all rubber hoses on the suctions side of the pump back to the tankfor kinks,,cracks, or loose connections,, somewhere it can suck air... take the gas cap off , listening for suction, ie plugged vent.,,
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I'm currently running it off a gas can. Fuel filter, pump, and rubber lines are all new. The ignition system is more than likely 20+ years old. So I'm guessing spark is at fault.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Your going to have to translate this one. I have no idea what you just said!
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What I was tryin to say is do the headers normally get scalding hot in a matter of 15-20 seconds?
As for the smoking headers, Geof informed me it could just be oil or something of the sorts burning off. I'm gonna see if they'll burn clean when I finally get it running right. Wanna get some header wrap too
 
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