Not so bright !
- Thread starter Z-dart
- Start date
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breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Could just have some burned out bulbs
If my memory serves this morn' there are only 3 bulbs in that panel for illumination. The other bulbs are indicators. Sylvania #2825 is a slightly brighter long life replacement and available most anywhere.
You could start spending money on bulbs, headlight switch, etc.. but it might be best to do some testing first. You may discover the entire electrical system is weak and dash illumination is the only evidence you've noticed. It is afterall "in your face" evidence.
Others will chime in on charging system testing.
You could start spending money on bulbs, headlight switch, etc.. but it might be best to do some testing first. You may discover the entire electrical system is weak and dash illumination is the only evidence you've noticed. It is afterall "in your face" evidence.
Others will chime in on charging system testing.
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
It could be the bulbs are just old & get that chromed or blackened look to them. It could be the voltage in the circuit is weak due to high resistance. It also could be the reflective surface in the cluster is just worn out & dull. I'd pull the cluster out & see what it all looks like. Bulbs should be nice & bright.
plum crazy dart
Well-Known Member
One of the members here makes a nice headlight relay kit that members have said makes dash lights brighter by reducing the load on electrical system. But I'd say check bulbs first.
X2 on checking the bulbs first or upgrading to the Sylvania #2825 ones that RedFish mentions above.
Here is the link for the headlight harness relay kit that our member crackedback makes. Lights are much brighter now after the install 8)
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
In addition to the above, start thinking of your dash illumination AS A SYSTEM. A COMPLETE system.
The path starts at the battery, and therefore depends on the battery voltage, so this means CHECK what the running battery voltage IS
Every single link in the chain must be checked. Just like a "tow chain" if one link is weak, the entire chain will be.
So Battery----fuse link---bulkhead connector---ammeter circuit---in harness splice---fuse panel hot buss---tail lamp fuse----to light switch connector---through light switch---to dash dimmer---through dimmer------back to fuse panel----through instrument fuse-------out to all dimmer controlled lamps, heater bezel, radio, console, gear selector, and of course dash cluster lamps.
Now in the cluster "system" the chain continues.............power comes to the CLUSTER CONNECTOR on the orange wire----through the connector-----to the cluster PC board----and to all the cluster lamp sockets-----and finally to the bulbs
So what are SOME of the possibilities?
Low charging running voltage right at the battery
bad connections in the bulkhead connector, the ammeter, or in more rare cases, the in harness splice.
bad connections at the tail fuse
bad connection at the headlight switch connector
bad switch itself, including the switch contacts or the dash dimmer control
bad connections at the instrument fuse
bad connection at the dash PC board connector
bad connections at the cluster lamp sockets, both between the pc board and the socket, and between the lamps and the sockets.
deteriorated lamps, blackened from years of use
one or two blown out lamps
NOW=====================================================
You don't have to check all this stuff from end to end, you can "jump in the middle" and eliminate some if it in "blocks"
With the car running at a fast idle, check running battery voltage right at the battery with the engine warm. Should be 13.8--14.2, in no case below 13.5, nor above 14.5
Now move to the tail lamp fuse with the headlamps on and the dash dimmer turned all the way to the left for "bright" dash lamps.
The voltage on both sides of the tail fuse should be VERY close to "same as battery."
Now check both sides of the inst. fuse. This may be somewhat lower, but should be AT LEAST 12V.
IF THESE simple quick checks are OK, now you need to access the cluster. Yup. Pull out the cluster. Get your tools your dirty hands, your shop manual, and get to work.
INSPECT the cluster harness connector pins. Loose? corroded? resolder. TRACE the ground side of the cluster traces, and jumper them together where the PC board screws to the cluster, and bring out a pigtail of wire from one or two of the screws that you can bolt to the column support or other solid grounding point.
CLEAN the socket to PC board area. Pencil eraser, etc. Dont get crazy with stuff like sandpaper. Clean inspect and bend the lamp socket fingers for better contact. You may have to find replacement sockets
Inspect and replace the bulbs. "It says here" that you'll find at least one dead bulb, or they all will be dark from years of use.
INSPECT the cluster physically. Is it full of dust and dirt? So fine, take it apart, you have all afternoon!!!!! Wash the cluster housing inside / out in detergent and water.
The path starts at the battery, and therefore depends on the battery voltage, so this means CHECK what the running battery voltage IS
Every single link in the chain must be checked. Just like a "tow chain" if one link is weak, the entire chain will be.
So Battery----fuse link---bulkhead connector---ammeter circuit---in harness splice---fuse panel hot buss---tail lamp fuse----to light switch connector---through light switch---to dash dimmer---through dimmer------back to fuse panel----through instrument fuse-------out to all dimmer controlled lamps, heater bezel, radio, console, gear selector, and of course dash cluster lamps.
Now in the cluster "system" the chain continues.............power comes to the CLUSTER CONNECTOR on the orange wire----through the connector-----to the cluster PC board----and to all the cluster lamp sockets-----and finally to the bulbs
So what are SOME of the possibilities?
Low charging running voltage right at the battery
bad connections in the bulkhead connector, the ammeter, or in more rare cases, the in harness splice.
bad connections at the tail fuse
bad connection at the headlight switch connector
bad switch itself, including the switch contacts or the dash dimmer control
bad connections at the instrument fuse
bad connection at the dash PC board connector
bad connections at the cluster lamp sockets, both between the pc board and the socket, and between the lamps and the sockets.
deteriorated lamps, blackened from years of use
one or two blown out lamps
NOW=====================================================
You don't have to check all this stuff from end to end, you can "jump in the middle" and eliminate some if it in "blocks"
With the car running at a fast idle, check running battery voltage right at the battery with the engine warm. Should be 13.8--14.2, in no case below 13.5, nor above 14.5
Now move to the tail lamp fuse with the headlamps on and the dash dimmer turned all the way to the left for "bright" dash lamps.
The voltage on both sides of the tail fuse should be VERY close to "same as battery."
Now check both sides of the inst. fuse. This may be somewhat lower, but should be AT LEAST 12V.
IF THESE simple quick checks are OK, now you need to access the cluster. Yup. Pull out the cluster. Get your tools your dirty hands, your shop manual, and get to work.
INSPECT the cluster harness connector pins. Loose? corroded? resolder. TRACE the ground side of the cluster traces, and jumper them together where the PC board screws to the cluster, and bring out a pigtail of wire from one or two of the screws that you can bolt to the column support or other solid grounding point.
CLEAN the socket to PC board area. Pencil eraser, etc. Dont get crazy with stuff like sandpaper. Clean inspect and bend the lamp socket fingers for better contact. You may have to find replacement sockets
Inspect and replace the bulbs. "It says here" that you'll find at least one dead bulb, or they all will be dark from years of use.
INSPECT the cluster physically. Is it full of dust and dirt? So fine, take it apart, you have all afternoon!!!!! Wash the cluster housing inside / out in detergent and water.
Check the ground path for your instrument cluster.
MOPARoldtimer
Banned
Remove each bulb and its holder. With the bulb inserted, measure the resistance across the filament by hooking an ohmmeter to each terminal on the bulb holder. It should be around a couple of ohms or less. If it's higher than that, the bulb is not making good contact with the holder.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Common problem in many cars. I have sprayed Contact Cleaner on the reostat wire to fix the problem, though they should be bright at the far left "click" position (reostat bypassed). If you go to the trouble of removing the bulbs, which is tricky w/ cluster in car, I suggest installing LED bulbs like I did since they should last forever. Just search for the bulb# in ebay. Mine were real cheap from Hong Kong, but work great.
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