Now that Centric is gone...what now for Disc brakes with 5x4 SBP

[Mattax]

My only complaint with the replacement Kelsey Hays 4 piston caliper rotors is , the "hat" transition is too big and rubs the dust boots on the pistons. Does anyone know of any replacement rotors made correctly that do not?

As I recall people people here reported the Power stop and Centric and a few others have machined hats.
I have a set but forget what it is. I can look when I'm at the garage. pretty sure its from Centrics
The problem seems to go back to the foundry that has been making the castings. Even 15-20 years ago it was the only one making that casting. Same for a lot of other disks and drums.* So the difference was how each brand machined them.

This post has a list replacement part numbers I got off of a website (autopartoo.com) with interchange listings years ago

Post in thread 'Rotor thickness minimum 4-piston KH?'

Mar 19, 2020

Think that's one of the brands I looked at for back up rotors.
I don't go through rotors quickly, but like to have at least a pair of fresh ones on the shelf.
The way things are now, no businesses like to have extra inventory. So even if they plan to make another run, sometimes there's a gap of months or even a couple years in availability. Here's some of the others.

Centric 'premium' rotors should actually be 120.xxxx.
Stoptech is a brand of Centric, as is C-tek.

Same p/n as the ones I bought from NAPA and returned around 1992...

• Mattax

*That came from Anti-dumping Report China-USA, pub4009.pdf (2008)

 

[66fs]

It just comes down how you're planning on using the car. If you actually plan on driving your car a decent amount then it makes sense to upgrade to the BBP disks, wheels, larger tires etc. The performance is better and the parts are widely available and will likely remain so for at least awhile longer because of the longer production range of the BBP disks.

If your car is just a restored show pony that's barely gonna break a thousand miles a year, buy an extra set of KH disks, run the ancient and outdated brake pads that sacrifice stopping distance for rotor preservation, and just remember on the rare occasion that you do actually drive your car that you won't be able to out brake anything on the road today. You're trading safety for origiinality.

If you're going the "restoration" route and trying to keep everything original and aren't planning on any substantial mileage, yeah, buy an extra set of rotors, a couple sets of original, outdated and underperforming brake pads and call it a day. Easy...

I have 4 A-Bodies, The 73 Dart came with BBP, 2 Barracudas run K-H small bolt pattern discs, one changed back from BBP discs, the 67 Barracuda is the only A-Body changed to BBP 11.75 discs with pin calipers. There are plenty of good pads available for the original K-H discs since they are the same as early Mustangs. The K-H discs stop plenty good with good pads. The rotors last me about 100,000 miles. Unsafe is a pretty bold and biased opinion. I have put plenty of miles on my cars and I don't have to out brake any car on the road, I just have to leave enough space between me and the vehicle in front of me. I've put so many street miles on these cars and good braking is not a problem.

 

[Dana67Dart]

I just got my 2x lifetime supply of KH dynamic friction from disks.

They seem to be exact duplicates to OEM or old aftermarket. I'll know more in a few weeks when I press off the old rotors.

The machining and casting was really well done, equal metal on each side of the rotor.


Now rock autos shipping... That's another thing...
The padding added to the 2 boxes

One of 2 boxes of 4 rotors. The other box faired better. This is how it was on my front porch.

I checked each rotor and luckily they all rung nicely and no obvious signs of damage.

 

[volaredon]

I didn't know that centric was part of first brands

 

[jos51700]

My reasoning is, IMO, the small bolt pattern is what makes the early cars the early cars. It's not something I'm willing to compromise on. I even had my Ford 9" axles made with the 5x4 pattern so I could retain it when I make that swap.

The guy most open to mixing non-Mopar engines into his classic Mopes and hotrods and swapping Ford axles in, wants to keep the small pattern because it's 'what makes an early car'...?
Gotta say, I wouldn't have guessed that.

 

[Dana67Dart]

The guy most open to mixing non-Mopar engines into his classic Mopes and hotrods and swapping Ford axles in, wants to keep the small pattern because it's 'what makes an early car'...?
Gotta say, I wouldn't have guessed that

When he admits to having left hand lug studs.....

 

[RustyRatRod]

The guy most open to mixing non-Mopar engines into his classic Mopes and hotrods and swapping Ford axles in, wants to keep the small pattern because it's 'what makes an early car'...?
Gotta say, I wouldn't have guessed that.

Darn tootin. I like what I like You lemmie be. lol

At least I ain't puttin a LS in it.

 

[junkyardhero]

Darn tootin. I like what I like You lemmie be. lol

At least I ain't puttin a LS in it.

you should prolly up and put an LS in. there ain't no distributor at all, so you can quit your harping on that part of the v8 swap.

 

[RustyRatRod]

you should prolly up and put an LS in. there ain't no distributor at all, so you can quit your harping on that part of the v8 swap.

But mine has room for a rear mounted distributor. It's a 64. If I was to ever do a V8 swap, It'd be a low deck BB. Likely a 451 or 470.

 

[340sFastback]

Darn tootin. I like what I like You lemmie be. lol

At least I ain't puttin a LS in it.

I don't know rusty I thought the 9 inch rear was kind of cool.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't know rusty I thought the 9 inch rear was kind of cool.

Thanks. So do I! Cheaper to build and maintain and behind a slant 6 it'll likely never break.

 

[jos51700]

Darn tootin. I like what I like You lemmie be. lol

At least I ain't puttin a LS in it.

I lol'd

 

[volaredon]

For a /6 what's wrong with the 8-3/4

 

[RustyRatRod]

For a /6 what's wrong with the 8-3/4

Everybody wants a million bucks for um. I got this 9" for FREE and with all I've done to it, I still don't have a grand in it. Narrowed, custom axles, Ford Track Lok, new bearings, new brakes, new 4.11 gears and all. Not to mention the 9" is stronger.

 

[junkyardhero]

Not to mention the 9" is stronger.

citation needed

 

[RustyRatRod]

citation needed

You want to know how, I guess? Here's a list. Might be more.

9"= 9" ring gear

8 3/4= 8 3/4" ring gear

9"=31 spline axles

8 3/4 = 30 spline axles

9"= THREE pinion bearings

8 3/4= two pinion bearings

I may have missed something.

 

[junkyardhero]

what size is the pinion again?

 

[jos51700]

what size is the pinion again?

Leave the man alone. He likes 5on4

 

[340six]

Leave the man alone. He likes 5on4

Like saying A Cups are better.

 

[jos51700]

Like saying A Cups are better.

Better than no cups, I reckon

 

[Dartnut]

Better than no cups, I reckon

 

[RustyRatRod]

what size is the pinion again?

With extra pinion support, that difference becomes irrelevant, but for the sake of answering your question, it's 1.312, which is just a tic smaller than the 741.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Like saying A Cups are better.

I've always liked Cs. Although Ds are fun.

 

[junkyardhero]

With extra pinion support, that difference becomes irrelevant, but for the sake of answering your question, it's 1.312, which is just a tic smaller than the 741.

remind me again, is that the smaller pinion? i forget...

 

[RustyRatRod]

remind me again, is that the smaller pinion? i forget...

Yes. But just like the 741, the Ford 9" doesn't have a long list of pinion shaft failures. As much as it's been argued around here that's there's little to no difference in strength in the 8 3/4 pinion diameters, now suddenly, since the Ford 9" is 1/16" smaller than the 741, it's a weak pos? I believe history says otherwise.