Off to the tranny shop!

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65Vart said:
Hang in there bud. You are a great example in persiverance and "stick to itivness". It's going to be a great accomplishment when this car is sorted out and running 10 second quarters.
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Thanks Wally,I can,t wait for that day.LOL

I dropped the car off at the tranny shop this morning for them to check/fix and get this sorted out once and for all.While there I picked up my center for the 73(going back to 3.23,s from 4.10,s)and will now beable to motor to out of town car shows.
 
??? torque braces??? my buds who go fast use them.... do you?? might be a good idea
 
pettybludart said:
I found the torque bars from the 73 Swinger(donor car),hope these help?
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What year is your block? Just so you know they changed them some time in the mid 70's. Not sure of the exact year of the change but I'm sure the 73's ones you have are the old style. The older ones are shorter than the newer ones.

If they have to pull the trans. I'd do what Rob said and have them check the input shaft to crank alignment. For a race car that should always be checked.
 
pettybludart said:
The bars are from a 73 318 and my block is a 77 360,maybe have to lengthen them?
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I bet you do. On mine I only had to lengthen the drivers side. I have no idea what the bars I had were off of though. They may not have even been a matched pair??? Or maybe it's only the drivers side that's different???
 
Thanks for chiming in Tracy,I admire your tranny knowledge and may attempt a disassemble/reasemble this winter with a 904.:read2:Just so I can learn what to look for.
 
Glad to help Scott. That's the best way to learn em, tear in and see what's what. That's how I got started doing them in high school auto shop in 81. You'll be amazed at how simple a Torqueflite is. You might also want to check into this book

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1283229664&sr=8-1-spell"]Amazon.com: Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications (0075478013999): Carl Munroe: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51MrlOqCiXL.@@AMEPARAM@@51MrlOqCiXL[/ame]

It's written around a 727 but they're basically the same except for the size of the parts and a couple other very minor differences. It's a very well written book that tells you just about anything you'd ever want to know about a torqueflite. The guys a good writer too. Doesn't talk over your head even if you've never done a trans. before. Tons of pics too.
 
I,ll have to search for that book Tracy,it,ll give me something to do over the boring winter months.Thanks
 
Well I went to the tranny shop today and my tailshaft is cracked this time?They asked if I was getting bunnyhop?To which I said no.I haven,t had any bunnyhopping doing my burnout or at launch.Will wait and see what becomes of this?:angry7:
 
pettybludart said:
Well I went to the tranny shop today and my tailshaft is cracked this time?They asked if I was getting bunnyhop?To which I said no.I haven,t had any bunnyhopping doing my burnout or at launch.Will wait and see what becomes of this?:angry7:
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Hummm.... So was it just leaking from the tailshaft or is it leaking from the front seal too? Have you checked your pinion angle? Is the driveshaft the correct length? What is the rear setup?
 
It was mentioned already... Have the tranny case lined up with the crank and if you dont have one, get the Energy Suspension trans mount insert. If your engine was align honed you may be out of alignment, and that will cause many things, one being broken cases (in extreme misalignments) others include broken tailshaft houseings and driveline binding. It means stripping the case to bare and then using a dial indicator off the crank hub. Once the trans and alignment are fixed, check you pinion angle too.
 
On saturday the car was leaking from the front seal,I then loaded the car on my trailer.(No leak at tailshaft area).I unloaded the car at the tranny shop Monday morning,with no leak at the tailshaft,just the front seal was dripping.I went today to bring a tailshaft and when I saw the crack in the tailshaft,I was confused as to why it wasn,t leaking?I will ask them to talk with the engine builder about alignment of the housing,t.converter.It,s in their hands now to make it right.My pinion angle is -4,running a pinion snubber with XHD leafs,QA-1 adj. shocks.
 
well theres your problem..... haha man glad all is well alittle tranny work is better then hospital bills
 
pettybludart said:
On saturday the car was leaking from the front seal,I then loaded the car on my trailer.(No leak at tailshaft area).I unloaded the car at the tranny shop Monday morning,with no leak at the tailshaft,just the front seal was dripping.I went today to bring a tailshaft and when I saw the crack in the tailshaft,I was confused as to why it wasn,t leaking?I will ask them to talk with the engine builder about alignment of the housing,t.converter.It,s in their hands now to make it right.My pinion angle is -4,running a pinion snubber with XHD leafs,QA-1 adj. shocks.
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The rear setup sounds correct. As to why the tailshaft may not have been leaking, my only thought is maybe it's because there is very little ATF running through it. I guess it depends on where the crack was and if it was all the way through. Just a thought. Hopefully the shop will find the alignment off or some other problem and fix it and you'll be good to go for a long time. Good luck.
 
Trust me,my fingers are crossed.I haven,t even had time to paint my roll cage yet.But have lost 10lbs while sweating re and re this tranny twice in the heat this summer.:angry7:I,ll get to the bottom of this.
 
moper said:
It was mentioned already... Have the tranny case lined up with the crank and if you dont have one, get the Energy Suspension trans mount insert. If your engine was align honed you may be out of alignment, and that will cause many things, one being broken cases (in extreme misalignments) others include broken tailshaft houseings and driveline binding. It means stripping the case to bare and then using a dial indicator off the crank hub. Once the trans and alignment are fixed, check you pinion angle too.
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OK tranny is being stripped to bare housing and a dial indicator is being used to line up,also have dropped off my driveshaft to be cleaned,balanced and new u-joints if needed?I just had the snout replaced on my t.converter and the bushing is worn again?So will be looking into this also.My pinion angle is down -4.We will get to the bottom of this and hopefully(this will sound funny)these problems have held me back from getting my 10 sec. pass?Once all these are completed and fixed,I might just run faster?Fingers crossed.:clock:
 
Just FYI, pinion angle should be 5-7 degrees nose down, according to the MP suspension manual.
 
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