Ohio Crankshaft Kit

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Dartwizer

Dartwizer

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Anyone used the Ohio crankshaft stoker kit? Site shows 2K for the 360-340 ,internal balance,Thanks
 
i heard the cranks are a quality peice, i would of used there kit, but they were out of the 340 stroker cranks.
 
i bought a eagle 4340 , and a set of new standard bearings, well i had to turn the crank .10 on the mains/rods, then buy new bearings, there wasnt enough clearence. i have heard this is common . just beware. check out k1 cranks , that was my 1 st choice, 4 weeks ago they were out, all i could get was eagle.
 
I have a 4340 Eagle 4" crank in mine no problems at all. It's got a girdle on the bottom end so I use that as an excuse to revv it to 7k regularly, it still pulls so why not! haaaaaaa
 
35regals Eagle crank also had quite a bit of taper on 2 sets of rod journals and the rear main. I've heard good things of the Ohio cranks but have no personal experience.
 
The Scat (cast) crank & i-beam rods that just went into the 408 only needed one small slug of mallory to internal balance and that was it.....builder said the crank and rods were all within tolerance.....and he's fussy. 8)

Rickster
 
They are all usually "within tolerances" in terms of factory. I have not used Ohio or K1 but I've measured the others pretty closely. They all usually have some taper, some journals more than others. Eagles are usually the most extreme with a couple just making the factory .0005 spec accross one journal. The K1s are much, much better finished than the others (including Ohio) from what I hear. I would not get the kit balanced. Have your local shop do it.
 
5 or 6 years ago ohio crank had a few bad eggs [& shop super] working there and thats when some bad stuff made it though inspection.
I spoke with a guy on yellow bullet who worked there, he said It's all good now.

My crank checked out perfect.

fwiw, when the journals are tight on clearance, next time measure the crank 1st then figure out how much to line hone, same with the rods, unless that crank is WAY tight or on the way big side, just open the big end up a lil, or even .001 oversize/undersize bearings.
it's a stacking of tolerances.
 
I'll add that K1's cranks are finished in the middle to low side allowing plenty of clearance with std. type bearing thickness. Alot of people get scared of .003 on the rods and mains and they don't like to see low (40 or less)idle pressure but truth is a real performance engine is MUCH happier and will live much longer with this clearance than say .002 on the rods and mains.
Some of our race engines use .004 on the mains and .0035 on the rods. It is application specific though so take that into consideration.
Brian
 
ou812 said:
I'll add that K1's cranks are finished in the middle to low side allowing plenty of clearance with std. type bearing thickness. Alot of people get scared of .003 on the rods and mains and they don't like to see low (40 or less)idle pressure but truth is a real performance engine is MUCH happier and will live much longer with this clearance than say .002 on the rods and mains.
Some of our race engines use .004 on the mains and .0035 on the rods. It is application specific though so take that into consideration.
Brian
Click to expand...
> Of course we know, oil throw-off, goes up to the "square" of bearing clearance increase ? Sounds like a LOT of oil on the walls ? Nascar motors run about .0005" ? ateam :read2:
 
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