Oil pan gasket vs rtv

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For my valve covers, I just used Gasgacinch and glued the gaskets to the valve covers.
Then applied some rtv to the gasket and bolted to the heads.
Let it dry, tightened next day.

I was thinking apply the same logic to the oil pan, then I looked for an aluminum pan that fit, then thought of making a metal oil pan shaped "ring" to go between the pan and bolts.

Then I saw this thread.
Mine as well try just rtv.

I'm guessing some have no luck with rtv because the let it dry step is skipped.
 
We use Right Stuff at the track, no waiting, no drama.
It's quite thick, very sticky, has more "body" than usual rtv .

I can't get oil pan gskts for our racecar engine .
Use Right Stuff, no leaks, win races . lol
***** to get apart, I found slipping a razor blade/knife to slice a section, then wedges of sorts .
Really good for China wall.

Good luck
 

Inertia said:
We use Right Stuff at the track, no waiting, no drama.
It's quite thick, very sticky, has more "body" than usual rtv .

I can't get oil pan gskts for our racecar engine .
Use Right Stuff, no leaks, win races . lol
***** to get apart, I found slipping a razor blade/knife to slice a section, then wedges of sorts .
Really good for China wall.

Good luck
Click to expand...
The lid to my hemi crossram, was installed with Right Stuff. It's not coming off.
I've tried heat, solvent, hammer and scrapers, etc....
 
MidnightSwinger said:
The amount of seal-a-cone I have removed from INSIDE the oil pan/block is terrifying. I’ve never seen any of it break off and get into the pickup, but it sure doesn’t make me feel all warm and cozy thinking about it.
Click to expand...
I cannot disagree. That's why I'm really careful with it.
 
MMissile said:
The lid to my hemi crossram, was installed with Right Stuff. It's not coming off.
I've tried heat, solvent, hammer and scrapers, etc....
Click to expand...

Yeah, you chug a 1/4" bead like the old rtv, it can be challenging to get apart.

I found a razor scraper to split the bead, then drive a sharp screwdriver into it at misc places .
 
I think the last time I used a cork pan gasket was 1975...or was it 1976. WE have better products now than what Henry Ford used....

One of the reasons silicon can leak is poor preparation. The surface has be scrupulously clean & a final wipe over with a solvent such as Lacquer Thinner. Have all your tools ready because you only have a few minutes before silicon starts to set.
 
Bewy said:
I think the last time I used a cork pan gasket was 1975...or was it 1976. WE have better products now than what Henry Ford used....

One of the reasons silicon can leak is poor preparation. The surface has be scrupulously clean & a final wipe over with a solvent such as Lacquer Thinner. Have all your tools ready because you only have a few minutes before silicon starts to set.
Click to expand...
I use denatured alcohol but you're right. You better use "something" before you apply it.
 
i use that one:
DICHTMITTEL | A003989982010
im pretty sure its Loctite
1755931549740.jpeg
 
HotrodColt said:
I want to have a discussion about oil pan gaskets. Not brands or materials or leaking issues. But a discussion of WHY? Do we all just put those paper/composite gaskets on because we always have and then all just agree that they HAVE to be there? I recently worked on some other vehicles that don’t even come from the OEM with a gasket for the oil pan, just black RTV gasket maker. If it’s good enough for them, why couldn’t it be ok for us? I’m not saying I’m going to go this route with one of my engines, I just want to know what cork or paper can do to seal better than a form fitting/imperfection filling liquid that hardens in place. Anyone done it without gaskets? If so what were your results?
Click to expand...
The newer stuff is designed for a RTV seal. The earlier car’s flange surfaces were designed for a gasket seal
 
If there's a gasket made for the job I use it. Only use RTV for places like the corners of a small block intake where the separate pieces join at the corners. Just had to reseal the trans pan on my Durango where the past idiot must have used 2 tubes of the crap to put the pan on the trans
.. I got the good rubber reusable one and put it on with no goop from a tube.
In fact they busted one of the pan bolts and just put goop over the hole in the pan.. I got the busted stub out easily, got on it with a left hand drill bit and the stub twirled out before the bit could start cutting into it...
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, when you don't have the option for a nice one piece rubber gasket, all there is is cork crap and it is ALL crap nowadays. They've thinned it out so thin that even torquing it to hal the rated torque normally tears the gasket and you now have a leak. I'll keep using the RTV. It just doesn't leak.
Click to expand...
Fel- Pro has one piece Laminated Silicone Steel Core oil pan gaskets now. Don't they have one for a LA?
I know they have valve cover gaskets, too.( if your head will seal)
 
I have had a few jobs recently (not only Mopar related) where I've had problems with fel pro doing it's job, and when I've had to do the redo I've gone with victor reinz and problem solved.
I've had this with the plenum gaskets on my 360 in my Durango (twice) and more recently with a valve cover set on a neighbors Ford focus with the VVT solenoids. The fel pro material is too hard, not pliable and just won't seal.
On the VVT seals I had 2 sets tear on install while the 3rd time I did it with the victor and they slid right over easily with no fighting. And I had to eat the 2 sets of fel pro in the Ford, almost $100 **** sandwich and that was just for the parts.
 
Woody500 said:
Fel- Pro has one piece Laminated Silicone Steel Core oil pan gaskets now. Don't they have one for a LA?
I know they have valve cover gaskets, too.( if your head will seal)
Click to expand...
I don't know of anything for the 318. Maybe they've come out with one since last I looked. No one makes anything for the Ford Cleveland family, though.
 
i remeber when sbc had the v/c rtv on them the all leaked ...red rtv was junk the felpro rubber/metal was the nicest ive seen on those
now i use ultra gray on my euro builds
honda bond is some great stuff ....hondas don't leak crazy stuff to get off
lots of new tech in sealing ...
when useing cork ill smear a light coat on both sides after i clean with brake clean lighty torq the cover let it dry for a couple of hrs then retorg till the cork crushes lighty
 
Murray said:
Times change! There was no RTV when I started working on cars. The appearance of RTV changed/improved things. Before RTV there was Permetex #1 and #2.
Click to expand...
Better than #1or#2, is still Aviation permatex. #1 similar to Aviation, but not as brushable. #2 very limited use, mostly it Sucks & something else usually works better.
Better old brands include K&Ws' Copper Coat(original spray copper brand also in brush can), Gasgacinch(similar to the Contact Cement mentioned earlier, but an auto product), Indian Head(like Aviation).
I'm sure I've neglected someones' favorite. Some good ones from Britain & Europe too.
Some brit silicones are very good, and some were better than many brands years ago.
Yamaha made a sounds similar to the Honda product for motorcycle cases that use no gaskets. Hard to remove.
K&Ws' Knock 'er Loose penetrant always was THE BEST penetrant, until the company sold & the new morons made it like that worthless PB Blaster. Dumasses!
 
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