dibbons
Well-Known Member
Just going to try a different oil pan on the '65 Formula S (now 318) because the steering link wants to punch a hole in it.
Oil Pan Removal & Reveal
- Thread starter dibbons
- Start date
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Treblig
Well-Known Member
Do you know what pan you need??
pishta
I know I'm right....
I've run the generic Mr Gasket chrome POS as well as another generic on on a 340 in the 65 Chassis but I was using the thick brick motor mounts. The Mr Gasket pan didn't fit one guys Melling pump. Small clearance was added after I noticed a little scratch on the orange paint.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The rest of the story ...
Previous owner installed 1980 318 to replace a 1965 273 Formula S. The oil pan on the 318 presently (blue with #388) is damaged from interference with the steering link (see foto #1). What I am sure would be the correct oil pan would be from another '65 273 (to the best of my knowledge, that year/model pan would have no number markings embossed on the sump).
What I have on hand is another small block pan (red with #394/384?) which has apparently had a factory relief "dimple" to clear steering link (see fotos #2 & #3). I am hoping this pan will fit the ticket.
However, I observe the red 394/384 pan has the sump encroaching toward the K-member a little more than the pan I removed (blue #388) (see foto #3). This may be perfect for a 273 in a '65 Abody or maybe not. Installation day and we will know for sure.
This may be common knowledge, but is new to me: with respect to the red oil pan at least, there are two diagonally opposite oil pan flange bolt holes smaller in diameter than the other 16 holes (see fotos #4 & #5). If one did not start these two bolts first (or early on) during installation, he/she may find it difficult to get them started in their appropriate holes later down the line.
Close up of numbers embossed in oil pans (see fotos #6 & #7).
Previous owner installed 1980 318 to replace a 1965 273 Formula S. The oil pan on the 318 presently (blue with #388) is damaged from interference with the steering link (see foto #1). What I am sure would be the correct oil pan would be from another '65 273 (to the best of my knowledge, that year/model pan would have no number markings embossed on the sump).
What I have on hand is another small block pan (red with #394/384?) which has apparently had a factory relief "dimple" to clear steering link (see fotos #2 & #3). I am hoping this pan will fit the ticket.
However, I observe the red 394/384 pan has the sump encroaching toward the K-member a little more than the pan I removed (blue #388) (see foto #3). This may be perfect for a 273 in a '65 Abody or maybe not. Installation day and we will know for sure.
This may be common knowledge, but is new to me: with respect to the red oil pan at least, there are two diagonally opposite oil pan flange bolt holes smaller in diameter than the other 16 holes (see fotos #4 & #5). If one did not start these two bolts first (or early on) during installation, he/she may find it difficult to get them started in their appropriate holes later down the line.
Close up of numbers embossed in oil pans (see fotos #6 & #7).
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I never thought of that.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
That 394 pan might rub the K-member. As mentioned, remove all the paint off the crank flange. I don't know which torque converter you're using, but, if it has the big button that matches the crank hole diameter, it might not slide inside with the paint in the hole. If you're using the '65 904 converter, you need to get the reducer bushing to match the small button on those converters. I'd also weight all the flex plate bolts to be sure they all weigh the same since they're a mixed set. Oh, and did they really weld the rod nut to the bolt in that one photo? Yikes!
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Must be a drop of oil.
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