oil pan

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schwinger

schwinger

1972 Dodge Dart Swinger
Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
533
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Location
Fresno, California
Where can i get a good oil pan that has an oil baffle in it for a 1988 318, i have the stock oil pan on right now but dont like it when i gun it and the oil pressure drops to 20 but goes back up to 60, im pretty sure the oil sloshes back uncovering the oil pickup tube for alitttle bit but the car is not beefed up or anything, pretty much stock, runs low 15s at the quarter mile, but i spun a rod bearing on it before when i launched it and the oil pressure did the same thing and im not looking forward to repeating that again.
 
Sounds like your not running enuff oil or something else is really wrong. Try Manciniracing or the jegs/sumitt guys. Look around there some.
 
I just received my M301 Kevko pan in the mail:

http://www.kevko.net/mopar.htm

OilPanSide.jpg


OilPanBaffle1.jpg
 
Mancini racing is where I got mine in which it is made by Milodon. It has a baffle. I think I paid $129

I used the stock oil pickup.
 
Mine runs low 13's easily and would break into the 12's if I had enough traction and never shows signs of oil pressure drop with a stock pan. I know every application is different but you usually don't need any extra capacity pan for a low 15 car. I'm thinking like Rumble that either you don't have enough oil in it or possibly the pickup is too far off the pan floor. The Kevco pan is a real nice unit and nearly impossible to beat on price. You could also weld a rear baffle in your stock pan.
 
hmm... ok then, its the right amount of oil in it according to the dipstick but the pickup tube. that might be the problem, ill probably have to check that out, its in my 72 dodge dart, i figure it was just oil sloshing around but i might be wrong on that, ill have to check out the pick up tube though to see if thats the problem or not. The pan itself, i would probably do that, weld up a rear baffle in it, pan is still good so ill probably go that route then but thanks for the info on that.
 
No way you should need baffles. The pickup should be no further away then 1/4", and no closer than 1/8. Also make sure you never unscrew it to position it. It's pipe thread, and if you do, you run the risk of the threads not sealing well.
 
I dont want to argue with anyone - but the fsm tells you to have 1/8 inch interference with the oil pan when reinstalling the pan etc.

If you are interested in rolling your own baffled pan, I have started making sump lids for my own engines. The block has to be bare in order to do it. Let me know if you want more info.
 
I think that might have been read incorrectly. Can anyone post that section of the service manual?
 
Now lets just think about this and give me some good answers. When the pan is on and all the specified amount of oil is in the motor on any motor whether it be a slant six or a 440 or a 426 hemi. What would be the oil level in the pan in comparison to the bottom of the lobes on the crank. The crank doesn't run in the oil so how far below the crank is the oil level not running. Does it vary from one motor to the next? I guess one could fill a stock motor with oil and drop the pan and see how far down in the pan the oil level is and then see how far the crank lobes set below where the pan flange bolts up to. Anyone ever heard of a crank scaper?
 
Hey Rob,
Bryan in Port Jeff ,Do you know where I can get the correct engine paint for my 68 cuda in our area? Thanks
 
Small Block said:
Now lets just think about this and give me some good answers. When the pan is on and all the specified amount of oil is in the motor on any motor whether it be a slant six or a 440 or a 426 hemi. What would be the oil level in the pan in comparison to the bottom of the lobes on the crank.

Depends ont eh engine. In small blocks, about 3", on a big block, slightly more.

The crank doesn't run in the oil so how far below the crank is the oil level not running. Does it vary from one motor to the next?

Yes, there is about 2qts in the sump in a factory 5qt system, the rest is being pumped thru or in process of draining back to the sump when it's running. This varies engine to engine.

I guess one could fill a stock motor with oil and drop the pan and see how far down in the pan the oil level is and then see how far the crank lobes set below where the pan flange bolts up to. Anyone ever heard of a crank scaper?
Click to expand...

Crank scrapers are the best way to control oil. The majority of oil drains back past the cam, fallign on the crank, and getting caught up around it. The scraper removes this parasitic power robber and directs it to the sump much faster. In a modern engine, oil control, rather than volume or weight, is MUCH more critical. You want to pump just enough to keep it together and keep things cool, with the least amount of power robbed or heat created, and it needs to drain back without getting caught by the crank.
A modern Stock Eliminator will reduce the oil in the system to less than 3qts to back up a record. Some run that level all the time. It makes that much of a difference.
 
If some one put a High volume oil pump in it you may have to much oil getting pulled out of the pan.:-k
My question !! Windage tray's. They do work and save some of the hp for the back tire's.
Or is this wrong. Just trying to learn something today.:read2:
 
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