Oil pressure issue

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If you are getting oil out of the output of the pump with the filter disconnected, then the pump is obviously working, but it still might be a stuck "open" pressure bypass.

I would plug the end of the hose of the pump output and put a gauge on there. Even on the starter, or with a drill you should be able to generate 10 psi at least

Some time ago someone posted about interferance with the pump mount and ARP studs. The interferance broke (cracked) the pump. Some pans also interfere with the pump and I could see the same thing happening.

"If it seems" that the pump is outputting, I would connect the filter hoses together without the filter and see where you sit.
 
I'm just going to eliminate the system all together and just try the good ol fashion spin on filter right to the block. I thought maybe the gauge was screwed up so I left the oil sender port open and I had no oil spitting out. So obviously something in the remote system is phucked up. Like I said before I had 70 lbs spinning it with a drill fairly slowly so if this doesn't solve my problem I'm really in some **** because the pan is coming off next. :-(
 
Alright update. Pulled passenger header, pulled the remote system off, spun a filter directly on and turned motor over still no pressure...... I'm really bummed. Guess my next step is dropping the pan but I'm not real sure what now? Yank the pump in thoughts of it being bad? It's a stock pan and pickup but I'm still stumped that I had pressure during pre oiling so WTF? Is there a way to get that pump drive shaft out aside from pulling the intake so I can throw my pre oil rod on it to spin it over without turning the motor? I just don't want to damage this sucker anymore than I already may have. I guess I can yank the rear main cap off and get the rod out that way. Has anyone had a faulty pump recently? I think its just a melling high volume pump.
 
Your intermediate shaft may have sheared the oil pump drive off after you installed it. So prime was fine and it still will drive the distributer just not the oil pump. It should come out the distributer hole with the intake manifold still on.
 
Hersbird said:
Your intermediate shaft may have sheared the oil pump drive off after you installed it. So prime was fine and it still will drive the distributer just not the oil pump.
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X2. I would definately yank the shaft out and inspect, and or reprime with a drill and see if you can get a "feel" for what's goin on at the pump
 
Will do thanks guys. Better not have sheared damn thing was 160.00 bucks!!! But I will start there. I'm doing dishes troubleshooting in my head and that was one of my ideas so ill give her a go tomorrow with a fresh head.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you are getting oil out of the output of the pump with the filter disconnected, then the pump is obviously working, but it still might be a stuck "open" pressure bypass.

I would plug the end of the hose of the pump output and put a gauge on there. Even on the starter, or with a drill you should be able to generate 10 psi at least

Some time ago someone posted about interferance with the pump mount and ARP studs. The interferance broke (cracked) the pump. Some pans also interfere with the pump and I could see the same thing happening.

"If it seems" that the pump is outputting, I would connect the filter hoses together without the filter and see where you sit.
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are you running ARP main studs ?
 
gtmopar said:
My setup looks like yours aside from having the dual filter setup which I'm thinking was a mistake I should have went with a single system. It does have the larger lines as well. I'm still messing with it to hopefully get these issues ironed out. Thanks for the info and pictures fishy. Just out of curiosity what is your idle psi at warm? I know its based per engine but should I see a slight loss with this filter setup? I'm going to screw with it today to see if I can get some resolve. Thanks again.
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Warm idle pressure is right at 30. Jumps right up to 58-60 psi by 2000 rpm. I tried mine first with a spin on filter and then after I installed the kit and saw no difference.

BTW: IMO the dual filter is the best setup. If I remember right the filters are plumbed in parallel so pressure drop would be less than with a single filter cause oil has 2 paths to take. I think you have a good system as long as it's de-burred and smoothed inside.

Just saw your later post where it doesn't have oil pressure with even a spin on filter. It's quite possible the bypass valve in the pump is stuck wide open. I never install an oil pump right out of the box. I always take them apart and clean and inspect them good and de-bur them and make sure the bypass valve moves freely. Remember this part is the life line of the engine. One time I bought a brand new Melling pump and when I took the cover off it had some rust inside. Looked like it didn't get lubed up good after machining.
 
fishy68 said:
It's quite possible the bypass valve in the pump is stuck wide open..
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X2

fishy68 said:
I always take them apart and clean and inspect them good and de-bur them and make sure the bypass valve moves freely. Remember this part is the life line of the engine. One time I bought a brand new Melling pump and when I took the cover off it had some rust inside. Looked like it didn't get lubed up good after machining.
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Geez. I didn't think things were that bad, even with Melling.
 
Ok guys so I just dropped the pan and pulled the rear bearing cap just to varify the galley plug was In and it is. I found a couple of small shards of metal in the pan but nothing huge. Any thoughts from here? I'm going to pull all the caps to make sure everything is ok and reassemble with more assembly lube but I'm stumped and concerned. I took the oil pump apart and it looked ok and clean. Can the relief plunger be faulty and if so what should I look for? Sorry for the barrage of questions I'm just sitting here scratching my head.
 
If your not finding anything jumping out at you i would find a diagram of the oil system i used to have one but do not know where it is now but anyway make sure all plugs are in the block I had a similar problem several years ago I forgot to put block plug in end of lifter gallery I only had 20 psi when engine was cold
 
If you don't see anything obvious I bet the relief valve is stuck wide open in the pump. All it takes is a piece of debris to cause it. Remember the oil pump gets unfiltered oil flowing through it. The filter is on the output side of the pump. All debris in the pan gets ran through the pump.

Your best bet is to disassemble the pump completely. To get the relief valve and spring out you have to yank the small freeze plug out on the side of the pump. It has a cotter pin holding it in place. It's pretty tight in there so most of the time I drill a small hole and screw a sheet metal screw into it and yank it out with pliers. Make sure and notice how the valve comes out and put it back the same after you've cleaned everything good and verified the valve moves freely in the pump bore. Put some light clean oil on things as you assemble it.
 
Again thanks for all the input guys. Fishy I think you are right. My friend and I spent hours working on it last night and narrowed it down to a faulty pump. I was going to yank the relief plunger out but didn't want to screw up the little plug so I called summit and they are sending me another one. I even spun the pump in a tub of oil and put my finger over the outlet and I could hold back the full flow with my thumb. Really hope that's my only issue. Fingers crossed.
 
well just for ***** and gigels if you can take your hoses off and look up in the oil passages with a lite you will have to take off your adapter were the filter goes and see if there open sumtimes wen that plug gets screwed in the back of the block they are screwd in to far blocking off the oil hole.hope this helps im sure you don't wont to pull it out but better safe then sorry.I have had this dun to 2 small blocks iv dun.so now I cheak them before putting them together........Artie
 
Artie what hoses are you referring to? The remote oil filter hoses I assume? I will make sure again for the 10th time all plugs are in. It's weird why I had 60lbs of pressure at preoiland none after the motor was in the car. Do you guys run the gasket on the oil pump? I was,just wasn't sure if it was interfering with the flow. I'm sure it wasn't because I checked.
Any mods that should be done to the pump to help flow this time around?
 
gtmopar said:
Again thanks for all the input guys. Fishy I think you are right. My friend and I spent hours working on it last night and narrowed it down to a faulty pump. I was going to yank the relief plunger out but didn't want to screw up the little plug so I called summit and they are sending me another one. I even spun the pump in a tub of oil and put my finger over the outlet and I could hold back the full flow with my thumb. Really hope that's my only issue. Fingers crossed.
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Sounds like you found the problem. No way should you be able to hold the oil pressure back with just a finger. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

p.s. if I were you I'd pull the cover off the new pump when you get it and make sure it doesn't have any crap in it. You just never know.
 
fishy68 said:
Sounds like you found the problem. No way should you be able to hold the oil pressure back with just a finger.
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Yup. I'd say. Is replacement parts quality REALLY getting to be this bad??
 
gtmopar said:
Again thanks for all the input guys. Fishy I think you are right. My friend and I spent hours working on it last night and narrowed it down to a faulty pump. I was going to yank the relief plunger out but didn't want to screw up the little plug so I called summit and they are sending me another one. I even spun the pump in a tub of oil and put my finger over the outlet and I could hold back the full flow with my thumb. Really hope that's my only issue. Fingers crossed.
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I guess I should have read all the posts (i'm hell for that)anyways ya I don't think you should be able to hold that with your thumb.and a 50 dollar pmp is cheaper than a motor..Artie
 
yup - every pump has to be completely taken apart and cleaned. Of the last 4-5 pumps I've used - 3 had visible bits in the relief valve.
 
Yea first thing I'm going to do is clean the crap out of that new pump. You would think that quality control on a part that is the life blood of an engine would be held to a higher standard. Guess every aspect of this country is going to ****? Thanks again guys for all of your troubleshooting input. Hope it solves the issue
 
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