Oil pump intermediate drive shaft?

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DesertRat

DesertRat

Leading edge boomer
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Picked up by heads today. Finished with the Lunati springs & matching 10 deg retainers & keepers. New SS exhaust valves with hardened seats. I took the oil pump intermediate shaft in for inspection & hot tank and it passes muster. My question is should I go ahead and replace it? I heard they make a hardned unit and I can buy a stock one from NAPA for under $40. The cam is a Lunati hydraulic setup so I dont know if i need a new shaft or not.
Advice appreciated, Rat:read2:
 
I myself like to purchase these parts new and a upgraded version is inexpensive to purchase. Howver, actually needing a replacement is weird, unless a roller cam is used.

If the teeth on the gear doesn't look bad, nauled, worn, then you'll be fine. Provided your not making a lot of HP. Tpical street machines can use a stock unit.

What cm are you useing? (Specs please) and your basic engine set up as well if you please.
 
Original 67 273 engine bored .40 over with Egge 10.5:1 pistons. Lunati hydraulic with matched lifters & springs. Lift, Intake .454, exhaust .475 Lobe seperation 112 duration advertized duration Intake 256 exhaust 262. Lunati dual springs 1.650 installed height with 120# seated pressure. Eddy performer intake and Holly 500CFM 4V carb. TTI small block a body headers. While we are at it, what stall should I run on the street with this setup with my 904 and 8 1/4 3:21 locker rear end? Building for daily driver/ricer killer, not a strip car. Any input is appreciated!8) Edit, forgot to mention rotating assy is balanced.
DR
 
if you are using a high volumn oil pump...you will need the harden tip intermeidate shaft.

besides it is cheap insurance...
 
Are you using a high volume oil pump? if so i would upgrade the pump driveshaft.
 
I am using the stock spec new oil pump after studying the issue on this site. Seems to be the preferred pump for my setup. I just checked one vendor and they have big block stuff but I have not sourced a small block billet unit yet.
 
A stock stall converter will do. No need for a higher stalling unit. The 60401 cam is much like the old Crane I used to run (@ .050) in my old 318. Your ramps are alot quicker in opening and closeing.

Keep the tire height near stock. Wider? Yes, taller, ummmmmm, not so much. On my Duster (74) I was running 225/70/14's with a LU/904 & a suregriped equiped 3.21 - 8-1/4 rear. It was a strong runner in the street. It ran a low 15.14@89 mph largely untunred.

The car could have used more gear since at the 1/4's end, I had alot of RPM yet to go.

I think you'll see about 270 HP out of this build and possible high 14's when your done tuning it up and maxing the combo out so it runs it's best. IMO, your a bit shy of import killer, but this should still be fun.

Things I'd do to improve tis combo (But that's just me) would be;

I would address your heads with some light prep work to help low lift flow with back cutting the valves and a good valve job on the seats. I do beileve a nice trick to up grade on is a 1.60 exhaust valve. You'll have to notch the cylinder wall for a 1.88 intake valve. (I'd rather not do it myself ethier. )

More cam and carb; Lunati's 402 and a 600 cfm carb -or - lunatis 403 w/600 cfm and bowl work to the heads. 2000-2200 rpm stall
 
My question is should I go ahead and replace it? I heard they make a hardned unit and I can buy a stock one from NAPA for under $40.
Click to expand...

Call it cheap insurance, replace it, and never have to question it latter.
 
Yes, get the upgraded shaft. A worn shaft by itself, or a worn bushing in the block itself, will cause timing variations later if it doesnt shear off in the pump or slip the gear. You need both new to get any long life from either one.
 
Thanks for the help all. Great information. Can someone tell me where to source the upgraded shaft. I have checked all the usual suspects and they only show big block stuff. We installed a new bushing already so I just need the shaft at this point.
TIA, Rat
 
DesertRat said:
Thanks for the help all. Great information. Can someone tell me where to source the upgraded shaft. I have checked all the usual suspects and they only show big block stuff. We installed a new bushing already so I just need the shaft at this point.
TIA, Rat
Click to expand...

MPP P3690715

If you don't have the tool to install the busing, better let someone that does,(like a machine shop) do that part.

If you now some one with the tool, there not that hard to do.
chry will have the busing as well.
 
rumblefish360 said:
A stock stall converter will do. No need for a higher stalling unit. The 60401 cam is much like the old Crane I used to run (@ .050) in my old 318. Your ramps are alot quicker in opening and closeing.

Keep the tire height near stock. Wider? Yes, taller, ummmmmm, not so much. On my Duster (74) I was running 225/70/14's with a LU/904 & a suregriped equiped 3.21 - 8-1/4 rear. It was a strong runner in the street. It ran a low 15.14@89 mph largely untunred.

So Rumblefish, thanks for the anylisis. Can I gain anything with 1.6:1 roller rockers and will they fit the stock shafts and pushrods. Seems like I would gain a little lift & duration with these aftermarket rockers. Input appreciated.
TIA, Rat:-D
Click to expand...
 
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