Oil through or not?

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Looking for opinions/advice on whether or not I should go with oil through pushrod/lifters. Building a 408 using an LA 360 block and Trick Flow heads. This is a high compression build (11.3-11.5:1) with a big (660+ lift 254/268 adv duration) solid roller cam using all comp cams race stuff.
 
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Either the Comp Cams 828-16 or the 8043-16 (with hole).
I was asking which rocker arm, not the lifter.
Was thinking if you are not using a rocker arm that requires pushrod oiling for some reason, there would be no need to deviate from the LA shaft oiling. It works just fine.
 
Looking for opinions/advice on whether or not I should go with oil through pushrod/lifters. Building a 408 using an LA 360 block and Trick Flow heads. This is a high compression build (11.3-11.5:1) with a big (660+ lift 254/268 adv duration) solid roller cam using all comp cams race stuff.
May as well. Especially if not correcting the geometry.. because the pushrod/adjuster ar such an angle..excessive wear/heat is inevitable .
 
I asked Mike from B3 engines about oiling from the pushrods as well as the std oil feed when he did my geometry correction kit. His advice was not to oil from the pushrods.
 

There are many of us running the Mancini rockers with the Trick Flow heads and the geometry is pretty good right out of the box.

Mancini Racing Aluminum Roller Rocker Arm Kit
IMG_0753.jpg


IMG_0784.jpg
 
I asked Mike from B3 engines about oiling from the pushrods as well as the std oil feed when he did my geometry correction kit. His advice was not to oil from the pushrods.
I agree with Mike, if the geometry is correct.. no need. Stock setup is terrible for high lift and or roller cams. I've seen them turn blue at the cups even when the oil was fed there via adjuster.
 
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Being those Comp rockers come with ball adjusters it’s pretty much a no brainer. No need to also oil via the pushrods. I’ve never seen off the shelf cup/ball pushrods that oiled. Custom sure. If you swapped the ball adjusters for cup adjusters in order to use oiling ball/ball pushrods you’d definitely want to somehow plug the holes in the adjusters on the top ends just below the hex sockets to prevent having 16 geysers spurting oil onto the valve covers. You lose a little on oil pressure as well if running shaft and pushrod oiling.
 
To the above post ^^^
"Off the shelf"....usually means stock.. that's why.
Stock springs
stock cam lift
stock rpms

Even with adjustable rocker arms...you want the correct length push rod to keep that adjuster in the range of 2 threads above the lock nut and 2 to 4 threads below. So deck the block to square or zero deck for the pistons, deck the heads, change the valve job...new valves...
Now see if you can run an off the shelf push rod in there . Now some like comp list in increments of .050.. and could be seen as off the shelf 'though they are cutting them per order' ..but if you need one inbetween .050.. its custom cut. The cup come different sizes...according to the ball end dimension. That can be tight when matched..unlike the stock style with cereal bowls for cups..so not much oil is held. The adjusters arent pissing like the shaft is, the leak is tiny at the adjuster..its leaking oil. Psi loss..? not really. Measure it for us if you think can. Block the adjuster feet somehow and then see if you see an oil pressure game on your gauge. Good luck lol
 
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"Off the shelf"....usually means stock.. that's why.
Stock springs
stock cam lift
stock rpms

Even with adjustable rocker arms...you want the correct length push rod to keep that adjuster in the range of 2 threads above the lock nut and 2 to 4 threads below. So deck the block to square or zero deck for the pistons, deck the heads, change the valve job...new valves...
Now see if you can run an off the shelf push rod in there . Now some like comp list in increments of .050.. and could be seen as off the shelf 'though they are cutting them per order' ..but if you need one inbetween .050.. its custom cut. The cup come different sizes...according to the ball end dimension. That can be tight when matched..unlike the stock style with cereal bowls for cups..so not much oil is held. The adjusters arent pissing like the shaft is, the leak is tiny at the adjuster..its leaking oil. Psi loss..? not really. Measure it for us if you think can. Block the adjuster feet somehow and then see if you see an oil pressure game on your gauge. Good luck lol
Not using stock or out of the box pushrods. Once we get the heads, we will measure for pushrod length and then submit the order. I was asked which setup I wanted which is why I posted my question here. Already decided against oil through an all parts have been ordered.

Thanks,
Bill
 
Not using stock or out of the box pushrods. Once we get the heads, we will measure for pushrod length and then submit the order. I was asked which setup I wanted which is why I posted my question here. Already decided against oil through an all parts have been ordered.

Thanks,
Bill
Awesome.
That was in response to the post above mine.Sorry for the confusion.
 
Some great ideas on this thread about oil through rockers.
I have a Speedmaster set that are Cup to Cup pushrods.

I have a lunati cam that has oil through lifters and a set of oil through pushrods.
I ran without blocking the normal oil feed to the heads and had too much rocker oiling.

Its easier to block the oil to the heads than trying to block the pushrod oiling.
I have a high pressure pump and hope this will work for me.

How have other folks solved this problem?

cup to cup rockers.jpg
 
Some great ideas on this thread about oil through rockers.
I have a Speedmaster set that are Cup to Cup pushrods.

I have a lunati cam that has oil through lifters and a set of oil through pushrods.
I ran without blocking the normal oil feed to the heads and had too much rocker oiling.

Its easier to block the oil to the heads than trying to block the pushrod oiling.
I have a high pressure pump and hope this will work for me.

How have other folks solved this problem?

View attachment 1716405172

I've seen some people install restricters in the two rocker arm shaft pedestals with oiling passages. A brass set screw works well. I did this recently on a set of Trick Flows.
 
I run oil through pushrods in my last 2 engines and would never go back. Blocked the passage in both sides of the block with a set screw. I feel I'm getting way more oil to the bottom end, where it's needed most. You do not need all that oil to the top end. Mopar overkill in my opinion.

Hot idle @1250 RPM, i'm at 28psi. Anything above idle 65 - 70. Standard Melling HV pump. NOT high pressure pump.

I could be wrong, I usually yield to experts, but I'd need absolute proof on this issue.
 
I run oil through pushrods in my last 2 engines and would never go back. Blocked the passage in both sides of the block with a set screw. I feel I'm getting way more oil to the bottom end, where it's needed most. You do not need all that oil to the top end. Mopar overkill in my opinion.

Hot idle @1250 RPM, i'm at 28psi. Anything above idle 65 - 70. Standard Melling HV pump. NOT high pressure pump.

I could be wrong, I usually yield to experts, but I'd need absolute proof on this issue.


You didn’t add any more oil to the bottom end.

I’m not typing it out, but I’m going to do several videos on **** like that when my engine goes back together next month.
 
well, if all that excess isn't going to the heads, it has to go somewhere! Bushed lifter bores, so it ain't puking out there. And, it's not pouring out the cam bearings. I checked all this stuff with a drill running the pump before final assembly.

One more thing. This motor in it's last incarnation was 566HP and I pounded the snot out of it for 4 years. When I decided to up the power and "freshen" it up, we re-used the rod and main bearings. They were like new. No BS.

I respect your opinion, Turk, as usual, but show me proof that my bottom end isn't getting better coverage.
 
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