Opinions on ignition systems

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ratvon

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I got a 72 340 going in my 68 barracuda bought from a friend all I know is it's got domed pistons and a mild cam but eventually I'll be beefing it but right now I would like to know what the best way to go as far as ignition systems since its been awhile that I bought one it's going to be more street than strip . I really like vertex magnetos but they are crazy money, so that's out. Any input would be appreciated
 
Yes the pertronix III has rev limiting


And it ONLY fits the points distributors.
They don't make one for the electronic Mopar distributors.

If it were my car and I was starting from scratch I'd get the "Ready to Run" HEI distributor and a good ecore coil (about 100 bucks total) and have it running with a good ignition system and upgrade to something more expensive later if wanted.
Only drawback is no rev limiter, but that could come later as well.
 
And it ONLY fits the points distributors.
They don't make one for the electronic Mopar distributors.

If it were my car and I was starting from scratch I'd get the "Ready to Run" HEI distributor and a good ecore coil (about 100 bucks total) and have it running with a good ignition system and upgrade to something more expensive later if wanted.
Only drawback is no rev limiter, but that could come later as well.


Good points !!

As the III unit is basically a GM HEI with rev limit but,

Like said only fits points type dizzy's however it does hide nicely under a Mopar hood with Mopar style dizzy when done right. The sight of GM parts under the hood make some of us Mopar guys sick but if hidden we smile!

It still uses a conventional style coil ( but specific) and performs very well!

I and many more are a fan of the Pertronix III.
 
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For a streeter you don't need anything fancy. In fact the simpler the better cuz you can fix it when 100 miles from home on a Sunday afternoon.
To that end, I highly recommend the Accell sq.-top, SuperCoil and whatever, to trigger it.
On your current combo, this could be as simple as your points set-up. The trouble with points is, the regularly scheduled maintenance. But if your car is regularly driven then points are no big deal.Of course a single-point set-up has rpm limitations, so for your combo, a dual-point system would be recommended.
The next step up is a transistorized system which does exactly what the points do without the hassle of points maintenance. And that's what has already been mentioned.
And the next step up would be CDI system

I like the SuperCoil cuz
#1 you can practically weld with it
#2 it fires gaps to .080 at up to maybe 7500. My plugs were installed in 1999 and have over 100,000 miles on 'em. And the old 367 still spins 7200 just as it always has. And she starts right up, everytime,just as it always has. And she idles dutifully at any ambient temp.for as long as I need it to.And she went 93 in the 1/8, with those same plugs,lol.
#3 it is "Old Faithful" reliable
#4 it works with any non-CDI system
#5 it is yellow, so that's almost a goes-fast guarantee.
#6 if you mount it on the apron, you will need a 2 ft or longer coil-wire. And so will any thief looking to steal your car, so take it with you when you rent a motel-room,lol.
#7 it's a plug-in deal; for you anyway.

P4120889 and 1ohm resistor P5206436
 
I wold search eBay for a Mallory part number 685 box and the correct coil. I have a couple of these boxes and several of the hyfire 7 boxes. One analog and two digital. I have picked them up at a reasonable cost.

The Mallory by far is easier to use, requires no chips to change rev limits and they work.
That's where I'd be looking.
 
Truth be told I had a complete stock ignition with a cheap parts store distributor and an old Accel coil and then change to a complete new MSD setup top to bottom and did not pick up not even a .001 in the quarter mile. You may add that 2 cents to your decision.
 
Truth be told I had a complete stock ignition with a cheap parts store distributor and an old Accel coil and then change to a complete new MSD setup top to bottom and did not pick up not even a .001 in the quarter mile. You may add that 2 cents to your decision.


As long as you don't need a 2 step or an over rev limiter the stock stuff is hard to beat for power output. Until you start making over 600 HP. Then you may have some issues. I had problems with durability of the Chrysler box. I kept a spare in the glove box.
 
If you take a hard look at the original post and noticed the original poster was talking about might have Dome pistons and a mild cam LOL this right here tells you he's not going to be thinking about two-step and 600 horsepower this guy needs something to get his car on the road and going. And definitely anything in the neighborhood of exotic is just going to be more money spent in a place he doesn't need to.

As long as you don't need a 2 step or an over rev limiter the stock stuff is hard to beat for power output. Until you start making over 600 HP. Then you may have some issues. I had problems with durability of the Chrysler box. I kept a spare in the glove box.
 
If you take a hard look at the original post and noticed the original poster was talking about might have Dome pistons and a mild cam LOL this right here tells you he's not going to be thinking about two-step and 600 horsepower this guy needs something to get his car on the road and going. And definitely anything in the neighborhood of exotic is just going to be more money spent in a place he doesn't need to.

That was exactly my point. :D
 
If you take a hard look at the original post and noticed the original poster was talking about might have Dome pistons and a mild cam LOL this right here tells you he's not going to be thinking about two-step and 600 horsepower this guy needs something to get his car on the road and going. And definitely anything in the neighborhood of exotic is just going to be more money spent in a place he doesn't need to.


I did read that in the OP's post. But...he did say he was going to be "beefing it up" some time in the future so that's why I said 2 step and rev limiter.

Been around long enough to know you guys change your minds like I change my drawers.

Well, more than that but you get the point. Plus, it was pretty early in the A.M. when I posted.
 
For low buck street, a Mopar electronic dist, stock or hotter coil (your choice, HP level, etc) and a GM HEI module is hard to beat.

Even with a stock "old" coil the HEI will deliver more spark than the Mopar ECU, not ballast needed.

A side benefit..........if you happen to leave the key on with HEI, the system does NOT draw coil current like points or the Mopar ECU. I'm referring here to actual GM HEI module.

I don't know about the "Skip White" and other imports
 
As long as you don't need a 2 step or an over rev limiter the stock stuff is hard to beat for power output. Until you start making over 600 HP. Then you may have some issues. I had problems with durability of the Chrysler box. I kept a spare in the glove box.
Truth be told I had a complete stock ignition with a cheap parts store distributor and an old Accel coil and then change to a complete new MSD setup top to bottom and did not pick up not even a .001 in the quarter mile. You may add that 2 cents to your decision.
Kinda my experience
 
Pertronix with the rev limiter looks like where I'm going . I like the built in rev limiter since its a four speed and my kid will be driving it
 
as mentioned a stock mopar auto parts store pieces including wires are fine.
..most don't want that stuff in their engine bay but it's fine for my stuff.
 
as mentioned a stock mopar auto parts store pieces including wires are fine.
..most don't want that stuff in their engine bay but it's fine for my stuff.
Pertronix with the flamethrower coil isn't any more than a stock look I like that to
 
Pertronix with the rev limiter looks like where I'm going . I like the built in rev limiter since its a four speed and my kid will be driving it
A rev-limiter is always a good plan.
Another good plan is a decent shifter, with no-flex rods, and securing the levers to the forks,and setting adequate plate departure at the PP.
And still another, is decent valve spring pressure. I mean just cuz the cam makes peak power at whatever rpm, doesn't mean it's time to shift there. In fact with the 2.66 low box, the splits are about 72%, so the quick way down the track will probable take about 600 to 800 more rpm, than where the power peaks . Short shift and you lose time. Miss a shift and go hide. Can't get the pedal down fast enough? hmmm, something's wrong. If your son is anything like mine was,he will push the boundaries,so try to get it set right, right from day 1,lol.
Oh yeah if the plus 600/800 takes you deep into the6000s, You better have adequate and good oil in it. I spun rod bearings on two separate engines/occasions. Both times on the driver's side. IIRC they were #3 and #1. Both times it was traceable to low oil level. On engine #3,among other things, I put a deep pan, lol.
All the best to you and yours
 
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