Opinions on this cam for a 360

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glockr

glockr

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Looking at a solid FT cam for an A body. Heads would be TF 190's, 10-10.5:1 compression ratio, 4.30 (or so) rear end, 3500 (or so) stall speed converter. Primarily street driven, needs to run on 91 pump gas but I want it to be quick. Looking at this one b/c all of their street cams have a wider LSA.
Comp Cams 20-629-5
Intake: 269 adv, 243 @ .050, 0.549 lift
Exhaust: 273 adv, 247 @ .050, 0.560 lift
LSA: 108

I know it's listed as an oval track cam, I was thinking that "might" mean it's a little more useable for street use than a drag race cam
 
Avidly following. My build is similar, but I went with the #733 Voodoo Solid Roller cam. Slowly coming together, finally got my Molnar crank and rods. Paul.
 
I would get anything but Comp. I like the specs, though.
 
I’d stab it and run it. Heck yea.
Screw a wide LSA. Most cases anyway.

Personally I’d run 1.6 rockers with it for more lift and a ever so minor tightening up of the LSA.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’d stab it and run it. Heck yea.
Screw a wide LSA. Most cases anyway.

Personally I’d run 1.6 rockers with it for more lift and a ever so minor tightening up of the LSA.
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I agree with this^^^^^^.

Also, I just ran a quick check of the numbers and I’m sure Comp in its usual way says to install it 4 degrees ahead which means install it on a 104 Intake Center Line.

I say it should go in at 107. That centers the overlap triangle. That will make the most power IF you don’t choke it to death with a bad header.

Youve got the gears (4.30 is a great street gear IMO) but you may be a bit tight at 3500 on converter.

I would also go no lower than a MEASURED 10.5:1 compression and you can probably go 11:1 IF you get your cooling system in shape (keep the coolant temp at no higher than 170 degrees and 160 would be better) and get a proper curve in the distibutor.

You have a great combo going together.
 
I like it too.
20 years ago, I would totally have run a cam with those specs, in my alloy-headed 367 probably at about 185psi CCP.
But I just don't need that big a cam anymore.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I agree with this^^^^^^.

Also, I just ran a quick check of the numbers and I’m sure Comp in its usual way says to install it 4 degrees ahead which means install it on a 104 Intake Center Line.

I say it should go in at 107. That centers the overlap triangle. That will make the most power IF you don’t choke it to death with a bad header.

Youve got the gears (4.30 is a great street gear IMO) but you may be a bit tight at 3500 on converter.

I would also go no lower than a MEASURED 10.5:1 compression and you can probably go 11:1 IF you get your cooling system in shape (keep the coolant temp at no higher than 170 degrees and 160 would be better) and get a proper curve in the distibutor.

You have a great combo going together.
Click to expand...
They sell 2 solid lifters, one with an EDM hole for oiling the cam/lifter interface (???) and one without the hole. Is either OK or one better than the other?
 
kdeboy said:
Looking at a solid FT cam for an A body. Heads would be TF 190's, 10-10.5:1 compression ratio, 4.30 (or so) rear end, 3500 (or so) stall speed converter. Primarily street driven, needs to run on 91 pump gas but I want it to be quick. Looking at this one b/c all of their street cams have a wider LSA.
Comp Cams 20-629-5
Intake: 269 adv, 243 @ .050, 0.549 lift
Exhaust: 273 adv, 247 @ .050, 0.560 lift
LSA: 108

I know it's listed as an oval track cam, I was thinking that "might" mean it's a little more useable for street use than a drag race cam
Click to expand...
You have a build close to mine. Except I have a 91/96 dodge dakota. I have right at 11.1 compression and a 8 inch 5500 stall. I havent done any street driving yet. Just racing it. But I have a comp 306 555 solid lifter cam. Comp says it's a street/ strip cam but the operating range is 4000-7000. Have you looked into a hydraulics roller cam? I am not really the one to give cam advice, so I would recommend you contact a company like comp etc or Dwayne porter, Mike at B3 racing etc and see what they recommend
 
kdeboy said:
one with an EDM hole
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Spend the extra coin and get the EDM lifters. Some may debate or question the validity or merits which is fine, but in some cases if both versions of something were priced the same you’d get the EDM’s, in this case. Just don’t discount something based on cost. Know why you wouldn’t use something. I buy into the concept of EDM’s.

Edited: Clarity
 
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12many said:
Spend the extra coin and get the EDM lifters. Some may debate or question the validity or merits which is fine, but if both versions were priced the same you’d get the EDM’s. To say one wouldn’t is bull. IMO.
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I don’t use the EDM lifters. It’s another leak at the lifter I don’t want.

A good oil and the throw off the rods puts plenty of oil on the cam to lube it.

Ridiculous low idle speed and oil volume is a lobe killer.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I don’t use the EDM lifters. It’s another leak at the lifter I don’t want.

A good oil and the throw off the rods puts plenty of oil on the cam to lube it.

Ridiculous low idle speed and oil volume is a lobe killer.
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OK, maybe my saying those that wouldn’t use them is “bull” is too much a blanket and over the top statement. But it applies to some where the cost of something is met with skepticism. See that often. So I’ll ratchet that comment back!
Anyway, I ran em (w/1000 rpm idle) and during assembly pre-lubed an engine prior to buttoning up and can attest that those small orifices indeed saturate the lobes. And I both oiled thru head to shaft and thru pushrods to rocker cup adjusters. So yes it was leak city. You might cringe at that!
And now I’m running direct axle oiling solid rollers with the same shaft and pushrod oiling setup. Oil everywhere. But I only spin to 6200. And oil pressure is good, but you’d still likely cringe :eek:
 
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Rat Bastid said:
I don’t use the EDM lifters. It’s another leak at the lifter I don’t want.

A good oil and the throw off the rods puts plenty of oil on the cam to lube it.

Ridiculous low idle speed and oil volume is a lobe killer.
Click to expand...
@Rat Bastid and I have discussed this a bunch and we agree on it but what he didn't mention is there are a few of us in our group running the edm lifters and "cool face"/grooved lifters including on hydraulic flat tappets. Exactly as he said low idle/low oil pressure at idle and we have a few guys with stout engines that idle around for hours in cruises and don't want to idle over 1k. It's just another form of insurance so rather than smack them upside the head (myself included lol) and crank up the idle speed we use the lifters for added protection. Just make sure you run a high volume pump with them, I like to run them in everything anyway.
 
kdeboy said:
Looking at a solid FT cam for an A body. Heads would be TF 190's, 10-10.5:1 compression ratio, 4.30 (or so) rear end, 3500 (or so) stall speed converter. Primarily street driven, needs to run on 91 pump gas but I want it to be quick. Looking at this one b/c all of their street cams have a wider LSA.
Comp Cams 20-629-5
Intake: 269 adv, 243 @ .050, 0.549 lift
Exhaust: 273 adv, 247 @ .050, 0.560 lift
LSA: 108

I know it's listed as an oval track cam, I was thinking that "might" mean it's a little more useable for street use than a drag race cam
Click to expand...
I think you'll be fine. I have one on the way that is 242/247 @.050", .540"/.549" lift, and 109 lobe separation that I am buying used from a member here. That is about 5 degrees of duration less than the max-effort recomendation that I got from Mike Jones for use with heads that are a bit behind the your TF and I have a 3.55 gear and 4-speed. Yours should rip pretty well I would think.
 
I think your really gunna like that setup, I have a single pattern SFT [email protected]" .550 lift on a 109 LSA in my 265 and its awesome - nice wide powerband and reasonable street manners (your extra cubes will help out with that). If your not 100% set on Comp, Howards have some nice high lift SFT grinds that aren't in the catalogue that might fit what your doing.
Do yourself a favour and dyno it before you order the torque convertor - it's a bit of a stuff around but it's worth it.
 
kdeboy said:
Looking at a solid FT cam for an A body. Heads would be TF 190's, 10-10.5:1 compression ratio, 4.30 (or so) rear end, 3500 (or so) stall speed converter. Primarily street driven, needs to run on 91 pump gas but I want it to be quick. Looking at this one b/c all of their street cams have a wider LSA.
Comp Cams 20-629-5
Intake: 269 adv, 243 @ .050, 0.549 lift
Exhaust: 273 adv, 247 @ .050, 0.560 lift
LSA: 108

I know it's listed as an oval track cam, I was thinking that "might" mean it's a little more useable for street use than a drag race cam
Click to expand...
That cam is similar to what I have in my 414. It's a Comp oval track cam too. Specs out at 272/280 advertised. 242/[email protected], .558/.572 lift w/1.6 rockers after lash, 108 LSA, installed at 107 if I remèmber correctly. Makes lots of low end & mid range torque. Mine peaked at 5300-5500. Your Trick Flows have better flow & more port volume than my ported iron heads. I've been playing around with the Wallace Racing Calculator lately & it shows your dynamic compression with be 9.0:1 and above with 10.1-10.5 static compression. Will that work with pump gas?
 
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Dynamic Compression [ ratio ] is as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike for determining fuel octane requirements. It uses the intake closing point, but tells you nothing about the weight of air taken into the cyl to be compressed on the power stroke.
 
srduster340 said:
That cam is similar to what I have in my 414. It's a Comp oval track cam too. Specs out at 272/280 advertised. 242/[email protected], .558/.572 lift w/1.6 rockers after lash, 108 LSA, installed at 107 if I remèmber correctly. Makes lots of low end & mid range torque. Mine peaked at 5300-5500. Your Trick Flows have better flow & more port volume than my ported iron heads. I've been playing around with the Wallace Racing Calculator lately & it shows your dynamic compression with be 9.0:1 and above with 10.1-10.5 static compression. Will that work with pump gas?
Click to expand...
I'm at 4000', at this elevation dynamic CR calculates to 8.77 so I should be OK... as long as I don't take it to the left coast :)
 
kdeboy said:
I'm at 4000', at this elevation dynamic CR calculates to 8.77 so I should be OK... as long as I don't take it to the left coast :)
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Oh yes! Go east my man! Go east!
 
rumblefish360 said:
It purely depends on the timing events, LSA and how much overlap you want for your engine.
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Is a tighter lsa better for low to midrange torque? I'm not worried about idle quality. I haven't got a car yet but I'm trying to get a decent idea of the route I want to take. I doubt that the engine will ever see over 5000 rpm's
 
That depends on engine size and cylinder head intake valve as to what the LSA should be.
In general, a tighter LSA will deliver more low end & midrange torque and have a rougher idle.
 
rumblefish360 said:
That depends on engine size and cylinder head intake valve as to what the LSA should be.
In general, a tighter LSA will deliver more low end & midrange torque and have a rougher idle.
Click to expand...
I can understand that. Would the tighter LSA still have a rough idle if the duration at 0.050" is under 220*?
 
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