Opinions please

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Your battery should have about 12.6 volts DC with everything turned off, if you don't have this then everything else is a waste of time. If you have less than 12, slow charge it, or replace it with a new one. If problem persists, check ground straps. After these two things are done, if you still have problems, then proceed to check firewall connections, especially the ammeter ones. Good luck brother.
 
If I may be so bold as to suggest that you by-pass your wiring and make a jumper wire that goes from the bat (+) to the coil and see if car will start . this can tellyou a lot . Ballast resistors suck !
 
I have a 74 Duster. It has electronic ignition. It started running rough, almost like it was running on 7 cyl or something. Eventually it wouldn't even start anymore. Would just backfire through the carb and then finally it just quit. No power at all. No headlights, domelight, nothing when you turn the key. I figured it was the ign module box.. When I took the old one off there was a hole in it. I'm figuring problem solved. I install a new one. All power comes back. I turn the key, I get one click and all power is gone again. Could it be the starter is bad and drawing too many amps? I've replaced the starter relay as well. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you all in advance.

You have a loose wire somewhere. On my 68 Dart, I had one very similar to this. There is a firewall junction block that controls most everything up front. It could also be a loose battery terminal. Check every connection starting at the battery twice. Don't assume anything is good till you check it. Mine was a burnt wire that looked good.
 
My opinion is, I like boobs.
 
....looks like you need a decent voltage from batt to start with. Once you accomplish that, it should crank, and maybe even start....now, it would be curious to know why the batt died....suspect charging system? Many other variables here mentioned also....bummer...and RustyRatRod....Ditto!!!!
 
BULKHEAD CONNECTOR.


Also +1 on liking bewbs
 
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