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TNCUDA

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Hey all

Ok, brake, tire wheel issue resolved. After discussing with my wife, and a couple of sleepless nights the brake, tire/wheel issue is resolved. Wer decided to keep everything as stock as we can. So, I am going to replace all brake assemblies. New everything. We will have 4-wheel drum brakes, but they will work. Flushing all lines and will replace lines as needed with NiCad tubing. Wheels are Cragar SS mags, 14 inches, SBP. Tires Firestone F70x14.

Anybody Chime in as to our decisions

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What year and model car are we talking? There are stock. (Or period correct options) for upgrading front brakes to disc. I personally would recommend. This upgrade will provide at least 60% better stopping performance. In my opinion.
 
Ok. That year does have fewer options. But my recommendation still stands. Though the car being lighter will help an all drum option. If they work well? And build is not an upgraded performance? Then you might be right to leave well enough alone.
 
There is nothing wrong with a fully functioning 4-wheel drum brake system if this is just a toy/cruiser.

If you plan on doing any highway commuting, or rush-hour driving, I would definitely go disc brakes.
 
Nope...It's not a daily driver...My toy...Replaced my motorcycles
I got off Harley’s and went back to Mopars.

Are they 10” drums? I believe the Formula S comes with 10” drums in the front which is leagues better than the 9” drums.

I daily drove my 67 Dart GT with 9” drums on all 4 in So Cal traffic. It was doable, but discs were one of the best upgrades I did. Again,that was daily driving in fast paced traffic.

Best shoes were the Raybestos riveted and I was always adjusting them to keep the braking straight.
 
Be safe and convert to a dual master cylinder and a valve if it will be a driver. I have used valves you can have for drum brakes just need to pay shipping. you will need to use 67 line kit
 
Flushing all lines and will replace lines as needed with NiCad tubing

If it were me and I was going to those lengths and investing like that, I would replace every line with new. With every thing else new, those become the weak link.
 
We sometimes drive Vixen every single day. She's my 64 Valiant two door seeedan with a warmed up slant 6. I retained the 4 wheel 9" drum brakes. Rebuilt everything from stem to stern. I have also converted to a dual reservoir disc brake master cylinder, because I have a set of Kelsey Hayes early disc brakes to install, but she stops very well retaining the drums. I've found zero issues even using her as a daily driver. I do also recommend like @Oldmanmopar to upgrade to the dual reservoir master cylinder. It's a very simple procedure and makes it much safer.
 
Be safe and convert to a dual master cylinder and a valve if it will be a driver. I have used valves you can have for drum brakes just need to pay shipping. you will need to use 67 line kit
Even with the single Mason jar master cylinders, if you know how to recognize brake fade and how to drive out of it, the dual reservoir cylinder isn't a required upgrade to be safe.

For many years in the 80s my 65 dart was driven daily with a number of miles of canyon driving included in the drive.

There is nothing wrong with the stock braking system on these cars as long as they are maintained.

Yes the dual reservoir is a safety upgrade which can prevent fade, but, it isn't required to drive and be safe if you know your car.

My 65 has 10" drums all around, with nothing upgraded. Yes I have the parts to upgrade to KH Disc have been sitting in the garage for 20 years now, and will eventually put them on it, when I do I will re-line the front and upgrade the MS, but not before.
 
Dual master is good IF you have a leak, so maybe you will have either front or rear brakes!!

Where you drive makes so MUCH difference. I drive rural 2 lane blacktop. Easy to stop. Yes we live in the sticks. Yesterday, wife had us drive to the city in our MODERN ride....I was scared chitless and I am FEARLESS!!!!!!
 
Even with the single Mason jar master cylinders, if you know how to recognize brake fade and how to drive out of it, the dual reservoir cylinder isn't a required upgrade to be safe.

For many years in the 80s my 65 dart was driven daily with a number of miles of canyon driving included in the drive.

There is nothing wrong with the stock braking system on these cars as long as they are maintained.

Yes the dual reservoir is a safety upgrade which can prevent fade, but, it isn't required to drive and be safe if you know your car.

My 65 has 10" drums all around, with nothing upgraded. Yes I have the parts to upgrade to KH Disc have been sitting in the garage for 20 years now, and will eventually put them on it, when I do I will re-line the front and upgrade the MS, but not before.
While I agree 100% the single reservoir master cylinder can stop very well, in order to be much safer, you do need to upgrade. This is why the dual reservoir master cylinder was mandated.....in what? 67 I believe. If you have a failure anywhere in the system with a single reservoir master cylinder, you have two good pumps on the brake pedal at BEST and you're done. With the dual reservoir master cylinder, you will still have braking with a failure and can at least get the car stopped, so yes, the dual reservoir master cylinder is a huge upgrade in terms of safety. To say otherwise is simply untrue.
 
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Don't plan on changing the master cylinder. Brake lines will probably all get swapped out. Got new flex hoses, so I'll do the lines as well. As for disc brake.....We discussed it, but we want to keep the car as original as we can. So single master cylinder, and drum brakes are the go! I'm old school. My first car in 1969 was a 66' valiant slant six....I have been driving for a long time, and don't think the car is going to be driven hard at all.
 
Looks like you've already made up your mind, so, what do you need us for? :poke:Just get used to keeping a lot more space between you and the vehicle in front of you. If this is not going to be a daily driver, I'd use DOT 5 brake fluid to help keep corrosion down from a can that will sit a lot. Good Luck.
 
It will look good with Cragars and stop ok with new brakes. A dual master for safety. I still have a single on my 66 and I can lock them up any time but there's no back up if I pop a line or hose.
 
The single is fine unless you have a leak! I admit to having old Mopars right now with single and dual MC, but I am used to living on the razor edge!! ha
My opinion is 10 inch drums in a small block A body, is totally adequate specially living in the sticks like me. Would good discs stop quicker? I bet YES. The bottom line is just stopping! :poke:

I have pulled large goosenecks all my life, electric trailer brakes came be iffy, so I have always gave plenty of room between me and the car in front, just habit. I do that no matter what I drive. But I scare the wife passing folk.
 
Well adjusted drum brakes will stop a car just fiine. Drum brakes aren't as good at managing and dispersing heat as disc brakes so their weakness is in repeat performances. They also don't work as well in wet conditions and require more frequent adjustment. Things I'm sure you have considered, but there is no reason drums won't work fine for your application. Just limit your max effort 60 to zero stop to one and then provide a cooling period.
 
I went with 4 wheel discs on my Barracuda and they stop on a dime . However I came to realize I dont drive aggressively enough to need them .
The 69 340 Swinger has all 4 manual drums but I used a smaller bore master and larger bore wheel cylinders . Nice pedal feel and great stopping power ! Drums will work fine .
For those that stay on the gas until the last second or tailgate constantly thats a whole nother story ….
 
I'll chime in that if it's just an occasional cruiser, drums and the single MC will be fine. Personally, I would at least swap to the dual MC as most people at car shows would never know it wasn't original. Back when I had my first Valiant ('71) with a 340 and did a lot of "spirited" driving, I knew that the 9" drums just didn't cut it. I swapped to disc/dual MC/ prop valve (off the '68 'cuda the 340 came out of) and never looked back.
 
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