Opinions welcome

[jos51700]

I would never use anything less than front discs on any car that isn't a 100% resto/show car. Conversions are easy and affordable these days, and few people will ever notice the change.

It's yours and your loved ones' lives in that car, as well as protection of your investment. It's not like these cars had great safety systems, so prevention is worth more than cure, manifold.

 

[toolmanmike]

Hey all

Ok, brake, tire wheel issue resolved. After discussing with my wife, and a couple of sleepless nights the brake, tire/wheel issue is resolved. Wer decided to keep everything as stock as we can. So, I am going to replace all brake assemblies. New everything. We will have 4-wheel drum brakes, but they will work. Flushing all lines and will replace lines as needed with NiCad tubing. Wheels are Cragar SS mags, 14 inches, SBP. Tires Firestone F70x14.

Anybody Chime in as to our decisions

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Good looking Barracuda. When you are ready to freshen up your leaf springs, Give ESPO Springs and Things a call. They have what you need, are great to deal with, and reasonably priced.

 

[jos51700]

I'll chime in that if it's just an occasional cruiser, drums and the single MC will be fine. Personally, I would at least swap to the dual MC as most people at car shows would never know it wasn't original. Back when I had my first Valiant ('71) with a 340 and did a lot of "spirited" driving, I knew that the 9" drums just didn't cut it. I swapped to disc/dual MC/ prop valve (off the '68 'cuda the 340 came out of) and never looked back.

I only disagreed to say that the single MC is never fine. I agree with the rest of this.

 

[Signetroar]

While I agree 100% the single reservoir master cylinder can stop very well, in order to be much safer, you do need to upgrade. This is why the dual reservoir master cylinder was mandated.....in what? 67 I believe. If you have a failure anywhere in the system with a single reservoir master cylinder, you have two good pumps on the brake pedal at BEST and you're done. With the dual reservoir master cylinder, you will still have braking with a failure and can at least get the car stopped, so yes, the dual reservoir master cylinder is a huge upgrade in terms of safety. To say otherwise is simply untrue.

For what it's worth dept;I have 66 Signet 2 dr hardtp. 340/4spd built with BB torsion bars,Konis,sway bars,built for hard,fast road courses.Used to race in NH before New Hampshire International,on road course,half dozen corners,bowls,offset high speed crests,very challenging.I raced in modified due to 340 transplant, at speeds between 50 and 120 with Vettes.I used 4 wheel drums,single master cyl,only thing I did was drill holes through shoes (stop laughing)to relieve gas pressure build up.No matter how hard I pushed that 340 5k to 7k RPM.Never had brake fade,running 2 to 3 seconds behind hot Vetts.Point is...not talking trash against master upgrades had planned to do myself,but I am proof a properly adjusted and maintained system can and will surprise you favorably.
Thanks for listening,Signetroar

 

[RustyRatRod]

For what it's worth dept;I have 66 Signet 2 dr hardtp. 340/4spd built with BB torsion bars,Konis,sway bars,built for hard,fast road courses.Used to race in NH before New Hampshire International,on road course,half dozen corners,bowls,offset high speed crests,very challenging.I raced in modified due to 340 transplant, at speeds between 50 and 120 with Vettes.I used 4 wheel drums,single master cyl,only thing I did was drill holes through shoes (stop laughing)to relieve gas pressure build up.No matter how hard I pushed that 340 5k to 7k RPM.Never had brake fade,running 2 to 3 seconds behind hot Vetts.Point is...not talking trash against master upgrades had planned to do myself,but I am proof a properly adjusted and maintained system can and will surprise you favorably.
Thanks for listening,Signetroar

No doubt it can be done. I've argued that drum brakes can stop very well before if properly maintained and adjusted. .....and I have no clue where the brake fade thing came from. The master cylinder hasn't a thing to do with brake fade other than the SLIM possibility that adding a LITTLE more fluid could keep the temperature down........I seriously doubt it. I never argued the brake fade thing. My argument was simply and solely the added safety of the dual reservoir master cylinder......and there's no arguing THAT. lol

 

[barbee6043]

There are ratings for drums, as to applications ie power, manual, linings.. it can make a difference.

Quiz: 18 wheelers use what kind of brakes to stop? disc or drum?

 

[cosgig]

“As original as possible” would include 14x5.5” steel wheels and sport hubcaps. If you’re using Cragars, you are deviating from your “as original as possible” goal, so why not just upgrade to the dual master? Might as well stay with the puny 36amp alternator, and the old style mechanical voltage regulator and points ignition too. Wouldn’t want an upgrade there either.

You see, there are many acceptable upgrades you can perform on these cars and still stay original, and nobody will care, most won’t even know it’s been changed. I would, but I would also nod my head in agreement that changes for safety and better performance are totally acceptable and welcomed in certain areas.

 

[RustyRatRod]

There are ratings for drums, as to applications ie power, manual, linings.. it can make a difference.

Quiz: 18 wheelers use what kind of brakes to stop? disc or drum?

Yeah, no kiddin. LOL We sold big truck drums when I worked at O'Reilly.

 

[barbee6043]

“As original as possible” would include 14x5.5” steel wheels and sport hubcaps. If you’re using Cragars, you are deviating from your “as original as possible” goal, so why not just upgrade to the dual master? Might as well stay with the puny 36amp alternator, and the old style mechanical voltage regulator and points ignition too. Wouldn’t want an upgrade there either.

You see, there are many acceptable upgrades you can perform on these cars and still stay original, and nobody will care, most won’t even know it’s been changed. I would, but I would also nod my head in agreement that changes for safety and better performance are totally acceptable and welcomed in certain areas.

Go to a 100 amp alternator and be SURE your wiring system and all your do dah's can support it, right?

 

[tinman2]

There are ratings for drums, as to applications ie power, manual, linings.. it can make a difference.

Quiz: 18 wheelers use what kind of brakes to stop? disc or drum?

Ever notice the Escape Ramps for 18 wheelers on step downgrades? And all the tire tracks in them.

At least some new road trucks are switching to disc brakes.
I drove a new company Mack truck before I retired a couple years ago. Disc brakes on ALL axles. No drums. It also had Mack's own engineered automatic (computer controlled manual) transmission. It worked very well.

With a good modern engine braking systems on an 18 wheeler, I barely had to use the brakes even when loaded heavy on the steep downgrades when obeying posted speed limits. But those drum brakes would heat up quickly if you mistreat them and then it feels as though someone greased your brake shoes.

 

[cosgig]

Go to a 100 amp alternator and be SURE your wiring system and all your do dah's can support it, right?

Yes, of course. But in the world of “everything in moderation”, most early cars don’t need a 100a alternator, but an upgrade to a 48a would still be in the realm of the stock wiring. And that’s what most people do t understand, they think they need the biggest, most powerful everything, when in fact they don’t. It doesn’t take a genius to realize that the 36a alternator puts out a whopping 19a at idle, and wonder why their lights flicker. A 48a upgrade brings that up to around 32a, a no brainer for me.

 

[Signetroar]

There are ratings for drums, as to applications ie power, manual, linings.. it can make a difference.

Quiz: 18 wheelers use what kind of brakes to stop? disc or drum?

Trucks currently use both,however,overwhelmingly the numbers are with drums.I suspect discs are optional at extra cost.

 

[Signetroar]

No doubt it can be done. I've argued that drum brakes can stop very well before if properly maintained and adjusted. .....and I have no clue where the brake fade thing came from. The master cylinder hasn't a thing to do with brake fade other than the SLIM possibility that adding a LITTLE more fluid could keep the temperature down........I seriously doubt it. I never argued the brake fade thing. My argument was simply and solely the added safety of the dual reservoir master cylinder......and there's no arguing THAT. lol

Correct,I did not mean in any way to argue against dual master or safety aspect and I will be first to say discs will probably stop a vehicle in a shorter distance assuming everything is near optimum operating condition.And road surface is the same.I didn't include abs operation as I think that could trigger an explosion here that could get out of control and waste time and space and complicate a basic statement.

 

[Signetroar]

Ever notice the Escape Ramps for 18 wheelers on step downgrades? And all the tire tracks in them.

At least some new road trucks are switching to disc brakes.
I drove a new company Mack truck before I retired a couple years ago. Disc brakes on ALL axles. No drums. It also had Mack's own engineered automatic (computer controlled manual) transmission. It worked very well.

With a good modern engine braking systems on an 18 wheeler, I barely had to use the brakes even when loaded heavy on the steep downgrades when obeying posted speed limits. But those drum brakes would heat up quickly if you mistreat them and then it feels as though someone greased your brake shoes.

Computer control has done much to improve brake operation,fuel economy and safety.As a former road warrior and a triple master ASE,with more than 50 years experience,I found if truck drum brakes were correctly adjusted and operated there was never a time when I couldn't depend on them,road condition not withstanding and driving at a proper speed for road conditions.If all brakes are equally sharing load you won't have excessive heat buildup of the type that can cause tires to burst into flames again assuming all the cans are ok.

 

[66340SEDAN]

I would upgrade to ceramic brake shoes if they make them for your car, my buddy put some on the front 11” drums on a 70 Coronet 440 and he said it stops nice, can hardly tell they are drums!

 

[Signetroar]

I would upgrade to ceramic brake shoes if they make them for your car, my buddy put some in his 11” drums on is 70 Coronet 440 and he said it stops nice, can hardly tell they are drums!

Ain't progress grand???

 

[64longroof]

I have a 3100 lb Dart wagon with 9 inch rears and the front disc upgrade. Manual brakes. In city driving I need less leg "excercise" to stop quickly than did with the front drums - no doubt! Highway? At 70 the discs stop adequately on busy I 75 , but I haven't had to try evasive, emergency stopping. I avoid getting into such situations . (I stay very attentive and let them pass me). It ainm't no Mark 8, which I also had for years, and ran a bit more aggressively (I pass the slowpokes/texters and wind it out now and then). I guess I got along fine back when we were "driving 55" in the old 9 incher Valiant years back. Today on the highway, at 70, I'd be scared to run front drums unless I lived in , e.g., Nevada. Elko area, if that is still considered rural.
But yeah, if its a cruiser, I'd probably use the cash for something else. How's the windshield? A new one is wonderful for night driving. The headlight relay upgrade is also worthwhile. The KYB standard size front shocks plus V8 torsion bars from a 73 Dart help with suspension for sure, but my Towne Car is even tighter around corners than the Dart.

 

[SSVDP]

Nice car!
Usually the big deterrent to disc brakes on our early cars is having to switch from 13” wheels to at least 14”. You are already making that upgrade. I have had a ‘66 Valiant convertible that I upgraded to the larger 10” drums brakes (like on your car) and it worked ok. But I now have a ‘66 with the original Kelsey-Hayes front disc brakes and I really like them. They are
far superior to the drum brakes and I love the “feel” or modulation of these brakes. And this improved braking performance is period correct as these were an option and most often on a Formula S.
I’m working on the dual reservoir brake master cylinder upgrade to eliminate the “widow maker” single reservoir version. I just don’t like the idea of one leak means absolutely no brakes.
And our old cars are very unsafe compared to a newer car. Just one example is they do not have collapsible steering columns. So I want all the help I can get in traffic with todays faster and better stopping cars and huge trucks.