Options for extended wheel studs and spacers?

[timk225]

One thing I've never liked about Dusters is the rear wheel track. From the rear view, it is way too narrow.

Picture some middle aged fat assed woman in a tight dress and high heels, like dressed up to go to church. That's the impression of the Duster rear view to me. I know, a horrible visual.

Since I am running 205-70-14 tires on my Duster, OEM rallye wheels, I have lots of room to improve the rear wheel track a bit.

I was thinking of maybe 3/4" or 1" per side.

I did some searching for wheel spacers and there's a lot out there, but I'd also need studs to match. I do not want to use the type that bolts to the hub, then has other bolts to hold the wheel. Not enough metal holding the wheel on in my opinion. I think longer studs that go through the spacer might be better.

 

[Lefty71]

No way would i run spacers for "visual appeal".

 

[Plymouth 65]

You just need some bigger tires! 65

 

[BSB67]

One thing I've never liked about Dusters is the rear wheel track. From the rear view, it is way too narrow.

Picture some middle aged fat assed woman in a tight dress and high heels, like dressed up to go to church. That's the impression of the Duster rear view to me. I know, a horrible visual.

Since I am running 205-70-14 tires on my Duster, OEM rallye wheels, I have lots of room to improve the rear wheel track a bit.

I was thinking of maybe 3/4" or 1" per side.

I did some searching for wheel spacers and there's a lot out there, but I'd also need studs to match. I do not want to use the type that bolts to the hub, then has other bolts to hold the wheel. Not enough metal holding the wheel on in my opinion. I think longer studs that go through the spacer might be better.

You can use longer studs, but maybe consider changing the wheel offset. Obviously it will be more costly.

 

[Darter6]

maybe consider changing the wheel offset.

 

[timk225]

It would be a lot more expense and work to mess with the wheels, rather than just space them out a bit.

Has anyone ever had problems with wheel spacers, and what were the problems?

 

[33IMP]

I have 3" studs all around on my "fast" cars.
One currently uses .300/.350 spacers. I made them.Runs eleven
One car uses.500 spacers. Bullet aluminum. I made them. Runs 10.0s
Currently in process of making 1 1/2" spacers work on a formerly 8 sec car. Gonna run low 10s when I'm done.
I've never had problems with spacers, but the ones I made were steel or billet, and the 1 1/2" ones I bought are billet too. I would never consider the cast garbage that is out there.
My opinion only.

 

[33IMP]

You didn't mention the year of your Duster.
If you still have 5 on 4 pattern, good luck finding spacers for that pattern. I doubt very much that I would use a large spacer on the small pattern 7/16 studs.
The car I'm using big studs on is 5 on 5. 9/16 studs.

 

[timk225]

You didn't mention the year of your Duster.
If you still have 5 on 4 pattern, good luck finding spacers for that pattern. I doubt very much that I would use a large spacer on the small pattern 7/16 studs.
The car I'm using big studs on is 5 on 5. 9/16 studs.

It is a 1973 with the 5 on 4.5 big bolt pattern.

 

[junkyardhero]

put a B-body rear end in and solve all your problems with one fell swoop!

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I would just buy some wider wheels. Having extra rubber is never a bad thing. You honestly don't want to know my opinion on using spacers period.

Tom

 

[timk225]

I thought of a potential problem to using longer studs and spacers. How do I get the wheel studs in without pulling the axles out of the housing? Beyond a certain length, I won't be able to get the longer wheel studs in between the brake backing plate and axle flange. What is the length of a stock wheel stud? Pulling the axles wouldn't normally be a big deal, but I didn't want to disturb the old seals and get something leaking. If something was dripping gear oil and I had to pull the axles to change seals already, it wouldn't be a big deal.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I thought of a potential problem to using longer studs and spacers. How do I get the wheel studs in without pulling the axles out of the housing? Beyond a certain length, I won't be able to get the longer wheel studs in between the brake backing plate and axle flange. What is the length of a stock wheel stud? Pulling the axles wouldn't normally be a big deal, but I didn't want to disturb the old seals and get something leaking. If something was dripping gear oil and I had to pull the axles to change seals already, it wouldn't be a big deal.

You won't get the studs out and longer ones in without removing the axles.

No pain, no gain

Adding wider wheels will negate all of the fun.

To,m

 

[go-fish]

I thought of a potential problem to using longer studs and spacers. How do I get the wheel studs in without pulling the axles out of the housing? Beyond a certain length, I won't be able to get the longer wheel studs in between the brake backing plate and axle flange. What is the length of a stock wheel stud? Pulling the axles wouldn't normally be a big deal, but I didn't want to disturb the old seals and get something leaking. If something was dripping gear oil and I had to pull the axles to change seals already, it wouldn't be a big deal.

Jeep 1.25 in. Thick Blue Wheel Spacers

These are 1-1/4" and you don't have to use long studs. They might be too wide for you but Jeep guys use these on rock crawlers. They've been proven. An 8-3/4 rear is over an inch wider : An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

A-BODY

• '66-'72= 52 5/8”
  • BBP 7.25/8.25 = 51.5”

You could always upgrade to 15's and have better availability in tires and get a proper backspace or send your wheels to Weldcraft to be widened.

 

[Inertia]

Here's an example of wheel spacers and not paying attention.
These wheels were bolted onto spacers, the wheels studs extended beyond the spacers, installer didn't notice the interference.
When I pointed issue out to installer, he bucked the front ones off, but not the rears, which wobbled like crazy.
I used a burr to grind some clearance on the wheels for the remaining studs.
Don't have a high opinion of adapters.

 

[Kern Dog]

I've used them and never had a failure.
There are a lot of people that are afraid of their own shadows and shy away from anything that they don't trust even if they have never witnessed a failure.
These:

Look about as solid as you will ever get. As long as the stock lugs don't extend beyond the thickness of the spacer, you will be fine.
It isn't ideal but it will work.
What is ideal?
Wheels that have the offset that you want, an axle that is wider so the wheels are pushed out further...or a combination of those two.
Yeah, the spacers/adapters are the cheapest way to go. If you aren't doing burnouts or autocross all the time, they would probably be just fine.
The wheels with less back spacing or in other words, more offset is the next in terms of cost.
A wider axle, like one from a 68-70 B body will get your wheels to sit the same distance to the body front and rear.
This Duster has 16 x 8 wheels. Front disc brakes from a 73-76 A body and a 68-70 B body.

If you can find a B body rear axle, even a stock 14" wheel sits out flush to the body.
Another option? An 8 1/4" axle from a Dakota. This 73 Dart I used to own has one. The wheels are stock 15 x 6 Rallye:

The Dakota axles can be found at the self serve junkyards a LOT cheaper than the 68-70 B body axles. You'd need to remove the mounts and weld on new ones. If you can cut, weld and grind, this can be done for less than $200.
Good luck

 

[340six]

It is a 1973 with the 5 on 4.5 big bolt pattern.

15x8 4.5 back space 275/60/15

 

[LO23M8B]

No don't do it. It's going to cost a lot more when the **** comes apart. Or as said just install a b body axle and deal with that. They are cheap.

 

[timk225]

15x8 4.5 back space 275/60/15

Several problems. Cost for different wheels. Then cost for different tires. Cost, cost, and more cost. Expenses all around to fix a problem that Chrysler should have designed right in the first place.

Surely the engineers at Chrysler stood behind the Duster prototype and said "This looks dumb with the wheels too narrow". Then the bean counters came around and asked how much it'd cost to fix, then the CEO or whoever said "no, save the 25 cents per car, I have a country club membership to pay for". I know, Chrysler wanted one axle to fit all A bodies, the wheels likely would have hit a Dart or Valiant quarter panel while clearing a Duster quarter.

I'll run the stock 7-1/4" axle until I break it, then build an 8-1/4" to replace it.

I think longer wheel studs made of good quality steel, through a spacer, to the lug nuts, would be better then having wheel studs end in the thinner piece of aluminum used in the spacer. That's a weaker base of aluminum holding the wheel on.

I was looking online, and I see there are several different diameters of studs where the base goes into the wheel flange. What size is right for our cars?

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Ex...Gnp8e4OX6EDbIP2tmPS-8MW3ysGDdMuSKfSxUGdHPo842

 

[33IMP]

I'm using the jeep-style spacers above, but for a 5 on 5 pattern
I knocked the short studs out, using the spacers over a 4" stud, with a set of nuts BOLTING the spacer to the axle, then using the same stud to hold the wheel.
This is on a big tire car, to use smaller wheels and tires without the tire being six inches away from the fender and looking stupid.
Doing it this way gives me the option of using the big tires or the small ones, (315/65x15 are the small tires)

 

[340six]

Several problems. Cost for different wheels. Then cost for different tires. Cost, cost, and more cost. Expenses all around to fix a problem that Chrysler should have designed right in the first place.

Surely the engineers at Chrysler stood behind the Duster prototype and said "This looks dumb with the wheels too narrow". Then the bean counters came around and asked how much it'd cost to fix, then the CEO or whoever said "no, save the 25 cents per car, I have a country club membership to pay for". I know, Chrysler wanted one axle to fit all A bodies, the wheels likely would have hit a Dart or Valiant quarter panel while clearing a Duster quarter.

I'll run the stock 7-1/4" axle until I break it, then build an 8-1/4" to replace it.

I think longer wheel studs made of good quality steel, through a spacer, to the lug nuts, would be better then having wheel studs end in the thinner piece of aluminum used in the spacer. That's a weaker base of aluminum holding the wheel on.

I was looking online, and I see there are several different diameters of studs where the base goes into the wheel flange. What size is right for our cars?

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Ex...Gnp8e4OX6EDbIP2tmPS-8MW3ysGDdMuSKfSxUGdHPo842

Your problem is the base wheel size. Pushing wheels out still leaves you with no width in tires.
I agree my 340 car had E/70/14 new. It did have a wider wheel than a six or 318 car unless you upgraded wheels as an option

 

[340six]

No don't do it. It's going to cost a lot more when the **** comes apart. Or as said just install a b body axle and deal with that. They are cheap.

This.
Putting spacers and small wheels pushed out will gain nothing.

 

[Lefty71]

Then cost for different tires. Cost, cost, and more cost.

Its a Mopar..... you are preaching to the choir.

 

[340six]

Its a Mopar..... you are preaching to the choir.

Cost? My 1973 car came from Ma Mopar with a 340-727 and 8 1/4 321:1 suregrip with large bolt pattern.
Also being an E Body guy I have a small collection of 8 /4 third members.
AND I wanted the ability to use said third members I have already, instead of just looking at them.
So bought the A Body 8 3/4.
that requires New Axles since only made to small bolt pattern..
I could have just swapped the 10 inch from the 8 1/4 but no I need to one up crap.
Upgrade to 11x 2.5 inch brakes from truck.
then since i was a TSM brake dealer bought disk kit with parking brake too just incase I wanted them later.
Now looks like it is going to be add the Dr. Diff relocation offset hangers.
What's wrong with me. I could have just left the 8 1/4 in it. Lol

But upside is I get to use the E Body wheels so that's something.
I can always tell my wife if asked.
We saved Money with the used wheels we already had, right?
Could have been worse.
If ya hotroding you need to buy one thing because you bought another. It's the rules.

 

[Donny DartO]

Ive had 1" spacer/adapters on my valiant just for visual appeal for 3 or 4 years now, no problems. My engine isn't all that powerful so maybe not the best testament. They do seem like you get what you pay for with these, I wouldn't go cheap.