Out with the 340 & in with the 410 stroker!

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Cool,now get out there and videotape :-D.Just playing . Good luck . Wish I had a 410" for the Dart.How much HP is that engine making ?/
 
Speaking from experience at least a 850 carb,and please get rid of that glass fuel filter you don't want to see what happens if it evers cracks,lastly you need to feed that motor go with a electric fuel pump...
 
Hey W&CG -
Let me know where I can pick up that worthless 340 you got now. I know you don't want it just sitting around and cluttering up your garage. LOL.
 
Hang on to your shorts my friend. Your going to think someone placed a big block under that hood. Actually, you will embarass some big block people and hand them their proverbial gluteous maximus!

Hehe,I'll take you up on that when my big block is in and running....
 
Speaking from experience at least a 850 carb,and please get rid of that glass fuel filter you don't want to see what happens if it evers cracks,lastly you need to feed that motor go with a electric fuel pump...

I do have a holley red pump, and with solid motor mounts probably won't hear it, so I'm thinking about it but mainly cause my rad hose touches the fuel pump a lil=[bmw radiator from late 90's 7 series, if you get one from a 3 series it drops into early a-body core support w/tabs welded from frame horns with holes drilled for the pegs to locate.]

Yes, I need a aluminum re usable
they checked the filter making sure it wouldn't move/break against anything and made me wrap duct tape around it before I could race at fontana.
 
I do have a holley red pump, and with solid motor mounts probably won't hear it, so I'm thinking about it but mainly cause my rad hose touches the fuel pump a lil=[bmw radiator from late 90's 7 series, if you get one from a 3 series it drops into early a-body core support w/tabs welded from frame horns with holes drilled for the pegs to locate.]

Yes, I need a aluminum re usable
they checked the filter making sure it wouldn't move/break against anything and made me wrap duct tape around it before I could race at fontana.

I have a holley red,an trust me,your going to hear it lol.
Its funny when u put your indicator on to turn,it will make a different
type of noise. instead of eeeeeeee.
Its eee ohhh eee ohhh.
Like a donkey lol.
Sorry,just had to type that.

With those sort of cubes, i think a 950 cfm carb wouldnt hurt.
But jmo.

What are the specs for that motor?
 
Update,
cylinder pressures are between 165-170psi so far.
I found disturbing plug readings and found there to be too much total timing[37*] now 32*/24*intial. I'm gonna raise the initial and make a bushing limiting advance to 4*=28*initial/32*total. we'll see what it ends up being when I do some testing though.

Right now in 1st it'll rev 6500 and then shut off, keep in mind it has an LD340/750 on it.

The combo
.040 over 360 studded + 4''crank=410cid
9.9 compression KB hyper quench domes .038-.041 quench height.
H beam rods
windage tray
stock oil pump
Engle solid cam .573 lift 252*@.050 284* adv 110cl installed 109.5cl
Billet roller chain
1970 J heads ported 270/[email protected] lift
Roller rockers=gets .560 at the valve [minor geometry issue]
Tiny 1 5/8 headers into 2 1/2 dual exhaust
750 dp Holley 74/83 4.5 pv @ close to sea level weather
LD340 Dual plane, no port match just rectangled the windows from there original triangulish shape.
 
Cool!

Any plans to take it to the strip once in run in an sorted?
 
Update,
cylinder pressures are between 165-170psi so far.
I found disturbing plug readings and found there to be too much total timing[37*] now 32*/24*intial. I'm gonna raise the initial and make a bushing limiting advance to 4*=28*initial/32*total. we'll see what it ends up being when I do some testing though.

Right now in 1st it'll rev 6500 and then shut off, keep in mind it has an LD340/750 on it.

The combo
.040 over 360 studded + 4''crank=410cid
9.9 compression KB hyper quench domes .038-.041 quench height.
H beam rods
windage tray
stock oil pump
Engle solid cam .573 lift 252*@.050 284* adv 110cl installed 109.5cl
Billet roller chain
1970 J heads ported 270/[email protected] lift
Roller rockers=gets .560 at the valve [minor geometry issue]
Tiny 1 5/8 headers into 2 1/2 dual exhaust
750 dp Holley 74/83 4.5 pv @ close to sea level weather
LD340 Dual plane, no port match just rectangled the windows from there original triangulish shape.

How are you getting the timing (initial/total) so tight with the bushings supplied by MSD? I have the black bushing in mine that is 18* mechanical advance.
 
You gotta make one by grinding oval a small nut.
I have one that I made that gives 8* advance right now, but want less.
It's trial and error.

How do you get those things to crank with that much initial? Why not let the distributor bring in the timing whenever you need it?
 
You gotta make one by grinding oval a small nut.
I have one that I made that gives 8* advance right now, but want less.
It's trial and error.

How did you come to the conclusion that you need that much initial? Initial is max vacuum minus an inch or 2.
 
I run my distributor at 32 degrees locked and it starts fine no problems hot or cold. I went to locked to settle down the in gear idle oscillation issue I had. I also run a 3.5 power valve. I had to crack the secondaries open some on my Holley 750 so I could close the primaries up so the primary transfer slots were not over exposed. My cam has a 108 degree lobe separation angle which produces a pretty rough idle for a street car.
 
I run my distributor at 32 degrees locked and it starts fine no problems hot or cold. I went to locked to settle down the in gear idle oscillation issue I had. I also run a 3.5 power valve. I had to crack the secondaries open some on my Holley 750 so I could close the primaries up so the primary transfer slots were not over exposed. My cam has a 108 degree lobe separation angle which produces a pretty rough idle for a street car.

What trans/convertor?

Too low a stall for the cam/ or poor convertor can have that happening, it drags down the rpm/timing giving you erratic idle speeds.
 
How did you come to the conclusion that you need that much initial? Initial is max vacuum minus an inch or 2.

You can advance the timing all day and get more vacuum, to a point.

Vacuum does not dictate where the initial needs to be,idle maybe, I've never done it that way, don't know anyone that does.

I advance the initial till the starter kicks back then [fully warmed up] then back it off 2*, thats where the initial wants to be. Then you just play with total timing settings till you find what it like and BAM you have you're initial/total figured out and just need to limit/taylor the curve to have the initial you want and only advance to the total timing you want.

All my cars are really fast, people always say DAM thats fast for a ?? size motor.

Try it sometime, you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
You can advance the timing all day and get more vacuum, to a point.

Vacuum does not dictate where the initial needs to be,idle maybe, I've never done it that way, don't know anyone that does.

I advance the initial till the starter kicks back then [fully warmed up] then back it off 2*, thats where the initial wants to be. Then you just play with total timing settings till you find what it like and BAM you have you're initial/total figured out and just need to limit/taylor the curve to have the initial you want and only advance to the total timing you want.

All my cars are really fast, people always say DAM thats fast for a ?? size motor.

Try it sometime, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

I have tried it. Starter kickback is one way, but an engine will give you only so much vacuum til it tops out. At that point is where initial should be check and noted and dropped about 2* like you said.
My original question was HOW you came about your numbers. Sorry if you thought different. Enjoy.
 
I have tried it. Starter kickback is one way, but an engine will give you only so much vacuum til it tops out. At that point is where initial should be check and noted and dropped about 2* like you said.
My original question was HOW you came about your numbers. Sorry if you thought different. Enjoy.


Wow...thanx for being sorry.
 
Hey red, no offense, but why do you think your way is better?

The more timing, the snappier.

In fact, didn't we hear someone mention locking out the distributor all together?

Do racers lock it out at max vacuum?

lighten up.
 
My initial timing will be 24* and 32* all in at 3000 rpm mechanical advance only.
I ordered my distributor from Don at 4secondsflat.com this way. Vacuum Canister is removed, my build will not make enough vacuum anyhow. If it needs more it will be adjusted for sure!

Almost ALL guys that are running fast LOCK them out I agree with you on that subject!
 
Hey red, no offense, but why do you think your way is better?

The more timing, the snappier.

In fact, didn't we hear someone mention locking out the distributor all together?

Do racers lock it out at max vacuum?

lighten up.


Not uptight....no need to lighten up.

Racers lock it out for a reason, you should already know what that is.
 
I have tried it. Starter kickback is one way, but an engine will give you only so much vacuum til it tops out. At that point is where initial should be check and noted and dropped about 2* like you said.
My original question was HOW you came about your numbers. Sorry if you thought different. Enjoy.

The distributor 'MSD pro billet' was off of my 340 that I pulled out for the 410 and is still setup the way it was, till I figured what this one will likes.
Now,
I had had done a initial check and forgot to retard it back some for the test drive.. so with 28*initial I had 36*total, & Since it was at 36* total and pinging, I took it back towards where 'I' thought it should be [for total advance].
After that well..I know it'll take 28*max initial and until I try 34*-35* the currant is what it likes for now at least till I know for sure.
 
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