over my head

-
C

cowest432

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
226
Reaction score
1
my hopes of a 416 stroker [69 block] are fading fast,, the more i read the worst it gets,,block is in shop now,bought a internal balance scat package and was told by shop to ask if any grinding to block had to be done,, NO i was told [by sales person] ,,early kits yes these newer ones NO,, yet i see forums were grinding was needed at bottom of piston stroke,,guys who have 416 let me know,,and any other pitfalls coming,, think old school build big pistons,big cam,low gears wouldn't be bad right now
 
Why would that fade your hopes of a 416? Are you scared of a dremel tool? Grinding is as old as cave men. There's nothing to it if it has to be done. Only on the insides of the bottom edges of the cylinders where the rod bolts come around. Very simple procedure.
 
i would think if it needed to be machined at all it would be pretty obvious because it would hit someplace right ??
 
RustyRatRod said:
Why would that fade your hopes of a 416? Are you scared of a dremel tool? Grinding is as old as cave men. There's nothing to it if it has to be done. Only on the insides of the bottom edges of the cylinders where the rod bolts come around. Very simple procedure.
Click to expand...

You seem to always give good educated advice. You are one of the good ones IMO, MT:cheers:
 
What rods do you have?

Scat I beam rods will work with out any grinding....H beam rods will require a small about of grinding...nothing to look sleep over.
 
By all means, please don't let this make you give up the stroker. It's a real easy thing to do. We wouldn't be tellin you if it wasn't.

This is what we are talking about here. And please accept my apology for my stupidness. I told you the inside of the cylinders and I was wrong. It's the outside. In my defense, the last small block stroker I built was back about 1996 or so.
 

Attachments

  • ROD BOLT CLEARANCE.jpg
    35.3 KB · Views: 186
RustyRatRod said:
By all means, please don't let this make you give up the stroker. It's a real easy thing to do. We wouldn't be tellin you if it wasn't.
Click to expand...


Not to mention the machine shop should be able to figure this out or get in touch with somebody who can help them understand don't you think ?? Way to big an investment to leave In the hands of the inexperienced.
 
As Tony said SCAT I beams generally don't require any grinding, mine didn't. Even yet it's such a simple procedure I can't understand giving up on things just because of that. Even if it's something your not comfortable doing any competent shop should be able to do it and shouldn't charge that much (maybe an hr worth of labor max). If your shop thinks grinding a little notch in the bottom of the bore is a big deal you need to find a different shop
 
fishy68 said:
As Tony said SCAT I beams generally don't require any grinding, mine didn't. Even yet it's such a simple procedure I can't understand giving up on things just because of that. Even if it's something your not comfortable doing any competent shop should be able to do it and shouldn't charge that much (maybe an hr worth of labor max). If your shop thinks grinding a little notch in the bottom of the bore is a big deal you need to find a different shop
Click to expand...

Ditto. X3. Thus is nothing unexpected if you have h beam rods. Find another builder that has a clue. If you have I beams...no grinding is needed.
 
thanks for input guys,, kit comes I beams standard so i'm good, i had kit balanced internally on members advice,, so back to stroker build
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top