Overcharging - alternator suggestions?

[itsfishy]

Hello everyone! It's been a while since I've posted. For those of you who were following my overheating issue, I do believe I've resolved it with new stainless (solid, not braided) fuel lines and multiple layers of insulation, as well as a new coil which seemed to have made a huge difference. I also put in a new Powermaster alternator (pics attached), and that's what (I think) the new issue is.

I changed the oil on the car a couple of days ago, started it, and everything seemed fine. Went to take it out for a spin today and it appears the voltage regulator is likely history. The volts will jump to (and over) 18V on the car's gauge under mild increase in RPMs; I've not tested it with a meter and am waiting for it to cool to make sure all the connections are tight. So, in the meantime, looking for recommendations for a new alternator. Most of the Powermasters are 150+ amps, so wanted to hear some thoughts for this car:

Upgraded wiring and fuses to modern
Analog gauges
BT stereo: 3 speakers front, subwoofer, 3 (large) speakers rear
Mechanical fuel pump
MSD ignition/coil
Non a/c
Mechanical fan

Aside from the stereo (which has its own fuse off the battery as well) there just shouldn't be a lot of additional draw. Was thinking about something with a fan on it since it does get so f-ing hot under the hood.

Any thoughts are appreciated as always!

 

[67Dart273]

I don't follow powermaster. How is this supposed to be wired? Is it alleged to have a built in/ built on regulator? It appears one brush is grounded?? like the pre 70 systems? If the VR is external and that is so, you must use the older VR. Part of the problem is that many of those older VR will not handle the field current on a modern "upgraded" high output alternator.

In other words you need to find out what you have there

It appears maybe you an convert it to isolated brushes (incorrectly known as "dual field) which means one more wire will allow you to use the much better 70/ later VR

On that note, you need to find a quality one or NOS. ANY external regulator MUST be grounded. Use star lock washers and or a dedicated pigtail

 

[itsfishy]

This is a one wire, internally regulated alt. It is grounded to the car, with a wire also going to the horn relay. In pic alt.1, you can see the black wire on the left leading downwards; that's the ground wire. In pic alt.2, you can clearly see the wire grounded to the car. The yellow wire on the right leads to the horn relay. The black braided cable, also on the right, goes to the battery. There are no stock (or "older") VRs on the car. I should also mention that this Powermaster is only about a year old, maybe a shade less.

I don't follow powermaster. How is this supposed to be wired? Is it alleged to have a built in/ built on regulator? It appears one brush is grounded?? like the pre 70 systems? If the VR is external and that is so, you must use the older VR. Part of the problem is that many of those older VR will not handle the field current on a modern "upgraded" high output alternator.

In other words you need to find out what you have there

It appears maybe you an convert it to isolated brushes (incorrectly known as "dual field) which means one more wire will allow you to use the much better 70/ later VR

On that note, you need to find a quality one or NOS. ANY external regulator MUST be grounded. Use star lock washers and or a dedicated pigtail

 

[Dana67Dart]

What is the pro master model number

 

[itsfishy]

What is the pro master model number

There sir is the $1M question. I *think* it's a 57519, 95A alt. The back looks identical. Which, if that's the case, I believe would likely explain why the VR went out - not enough juice.

Powermaster 57519 Powermaster Street Alternators | Summit Racing

 

[itsfishy]

Let me add on to my last post (#5):

I know that a lower amp alt than the power needs won't necessarily kill a VR, but there was something odd that happened that might shed some light on this. I recently got a new phone - only because my old one was so old that some apps wouldn't run on it anymore - and had to pair it to the BT stereo. As I was doing that, the rear speakers, driven by the subwoofer and amplifier, made some popping sounds. At first I thought it was connecting, but that wasn't the case. Then when it did connect, it only connected with the front speakers and not the rear. That's when I noticed the gauge doing the funky dance, so shut the car down. I gave it a minute, got out and checked to see if there was any evidence of a wire out of place or arcing, then restarted the car. This time, everything came up (speakers-wise) but again, when I added a little RPMs the volts jumped big time. So I'm thinking the amp and woofer came up, or tried to on the first attempt, and possibly did something that baked the VR.

All theory. Smoke and mirrors.

 

[Dana67Dart]

If that is your alt it is not internally regulated.

Your photos seem to indicate it's not the same akt as the number your posted.


Based on your description it sounds and looks like it has one field terminal internally grounded and you are feeding 12v to the other field wire causing a full field situation.

Red arrow shows no terminal on FLD 2
Yellow arrow shows lock washer making a ground to the field terminal.

Green FLD 1 terminal has a connector on it, where does it go to?

 

[Dana67Dart]

BTW

What gauge is the yellow charge wire coming off the alternator it looks a bit small for a 95 amp alternatir

 

[Dana67Dart]

You can test some things. Pull the connector off the FLD 1 terminal. (Protect the wire from grounding to anything)

Your alternator should stop charging.

The way your alt appears to be wired / setup. You could use a 69 and older grounded field voltage regulator to control it.

 

[itsfishy]

If that is your alt it is not internally regulated.

View attachment 1716418649
Your photos seem to indicate it's not the same akt as the number your posted.


Based on your description it sounds and looks like it has one field terminal internally grounded and you are feeding 12v to the other field wire causing a full field situation.

Red arrow shows no terminal on FLD 2
Yellow arrow shows lock washer making a ground to the field terminal.

Green FLD 1 terminal has a connector on it, where does it go to?
View attachment 1716418650

Green arrow/connector leads into the alt. I assumed that goes to the VR, but clearly don't know for sure.

Here's the other one that I thought it was, which is internally regulated:

Powermaster 575191 Powermaster Street Alternators | Summit Racing

 

[itsfishy]

BTW

What gauge is the yellow charge wire coming off the alternator it looks a bit small for a 95 amp alternatir

Yellow wire coming off the alternator (right side in that pic) goes to the horn relay up front.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Here's the other one that I thought it was, which is internally regulated:

Might be. The alternator is just a new style "Square back" alternator updated with higher output internals and an internal VR.

The photo in both ads looks to be the same photo.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Yellow wire coming off the alternator (right side in that pic) goes to the horn relay up front

Ok power for the horns, got it!

 

[Dana67Dart]

You mentioned that your gauge is reading 18v is it a dedicated Volt meter?

The stock ALT gauge measures amps

 

[itsfishy]

You mentioned that your gauge is reading 18v is it a dedicated Volt meter?

The stock ALT gauge measures amps

It is an aftermarket gauge: Autometer ultralight, 8 - 18 VDC.

 

[itsfishy]

I was going to go out and mess with it but just realized the time. I get to hop a 0530 flight tomorrow, so need to get packing and get ready for a stupidly early departure. Keep sending over the ideas though, and thank you!

 

[67Dart273]

If you KNOW for absolute that it is a one wire, the answer is simple. The VR is toast. Chrysler NEVER used an integrated VR, so that means you need a proprietary VR from Power Master, unless some 3rd party makes a "look alike"

 

[itsfishy]

If you KNOW for absolute that it is a one wire, the answer is simple. The VR is toast. Chrysler NEVER used an integrated VR, so that means you need a proprietary VR from Power Master, unless some 3rd party makes a "look alike"

I'm 99.999% sure that's a one wire, but that's not really the answer. The question is: do I need a bigger alternator? Calculating out power needs (although making an assumption on the subwoofer and amp), I think I need something in the 150+ range. I'm making the assumption that the stereo system is pulling 125 amps.

 

[67Dart273]

If you actually have stuff drawing that amount of power, I can tell you without looking that you need a MASSIVE rework of your electrical system. Larger cables to parts of it, and what are you using for the charge wire from the alternator? And yeh, maybe a larger alternator, but you ain't gonna drive all that with one belt, probably.

And you also better invest in some test equipment so you can evaluate loads.