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When doing it by hand there is no fixture
Not sure of the content of green grease specified by Boeing for the 757 but there are 9750 grease fittings on the thing and some of those are impossible to reach on an overnight. The exception is the brakes. They specify a black grease and I assume it has molybdenum disulfied in that.
9750, think one tube will do it?
Why the hell are yall talkin airplane grease and blowin this guy's mind? ALL he needs is a good, high temp AUTOMOTIVE wheel bearing grease. He doesn't need to be confused.
I believe it's actually called "wheel bearing grease".
I think that's what I said.
Used Lucas "Red 'n Tacky". All is well.
That's good stuff!
Gloves are for sissys get your hands dirty. I have a packer, never use it, when i find it, it will be part of my garage clean up.
Work smarter not harder.
Anyone having their Mobil 1 Grease Viscosity change to fluid like? I've seen it several times on my vehicles already. And now my grease gun is dripping out grease like fluid. I called them once and they just played stupid.
I've done it both ways ,packer and by hand. By hand is a method that needs to be learned, you have to keep "working it" untill the grease pushed up into the race between the rollers. You need someone to show you rather than 'watch" if you know what I mean. basically grease on the outside isnt going to work, it needs to be up,in,and through the bearing. the packer is quick and easy and you can see the grease working through the bearing you know its properly packed.
I've seen that too. You are not hallucinating.
I don't know, man. I thought like that when I was a kid, then later, I worked with an older gentleman at a local tire store. Very cool old school brake mechanic. Taught me a lot. His wife suffered from some kind of degenerative muscular disease and he was her constant caretaker.....and also a severe alcoholic......but he was a good old soul. I felt really bad for him when he came up with some kind of petroleum caused skin irritation....that ended up turning into a serious cancer. All from decades of no skin protection. Made me a believer in good rubber gloves. I don't use them for everything, but I use them if I know I am going into some heavy grease or oil.
Maybe I should do a how to video on that and post it on my youtube channel. I'm gettin ready to post all my other videos back up there soon anyway.
Uses glove to pack bearings g full of grease... Then takes off glove to handle greasy bearing. Love it! But seriously.. that's the way I do it, by hand. Not that I don't like specialty tools that make things easier...just that I just stick with what works -tried n true.
1) I do NOT like that fibrous grease, and I will never use it. 2) Give me a latex glove and a palm full of grease, and I'll have a properly packed bearing in just seconds. I guess I prefer a good hand job.
first time I used a double cone pressurized one in high school auto shop (!) , I watched the black crap ooze out and then the new green stuff follow it. We knew it was purged of the old gunk. Buddy worked for Parker-Hanifin in the test department. Skydrol is a mofo when it gets on you. Gloves were mandatory as well as a full face shield and apron. He worked in the hydraulic actuator test area (F-18, Tomahawk stuff) where actuators would blow up every now and then, always in a fully contained "boom box". Petroleum products are nasty for the skin, unless they are made for it, ie. Vaseline.
That fibrous grease is EXTREMELY valuable. Think "ball joints and tie rod ends". Mopar just discontinued it and i bought 6 tubes from 600 miles away. The mopar wheel bearing grease is green and smooth, and very similar to Harley Davidson wheel bearing grease (which is blue), and it's not stringy at all.
If that stringy grease you have is dark brown it is Sodium soap grease, and it was used as wheel bearing and u-joint grease up into at least the mid 60's. The oil component of that grease was sperm whale oil. When that stringy grease gets warm the bearing mashes and melts it into a smooth heavy oil, like molasses, for the bearings to run flooded in and returns to its original fibrous state when cold. Bearing failures were very rare when that stuff was used and was considered good for the life of the vehicle if the seals held. I Wish I could still buy it. But without sperm oil to make it work, soon it was gone. It was also used in the drive shaft front slip yokes from 65 on back, and the 62 (and others) Chrysler "torque tube drive shafts" were full of that stuff. U-joints never went bad in those cars. It was hydrophobic too, wouldn't take on and mix with water like the Lithium soap greases all do. Some ancient history: In 1974 our mopar dealer sold the Michigan DNR four M3 (light military-maybe 2 ton) FWD Cab & Chassis trucks for them to turn into forest fire pump & hose trucks, they were 2 tone light/medium green enamel. I had to do the new vehicle prep on them and found the front axle full motion steering hubs (they didn't use u-joints) were filled with it as were the front and rear wheel bearings. I presume the drive shafts slip spline yokes had it as well. They were cool looking trucks with big fenders and running boards like the 1939's , in fact they looked like 1939 trucks with left and right hoods, split windshields, lever door handles, old timey dashboard and no frills. The edges of the fenders and running boards were trimmed with 1-1/2 inch angle iron riveted to the fenders and boards. Engines were 230 CI flat head six's. The only thing to give them away as 1974's was the serial numbers, modern rubber door seals, and modern bench seats. I remember the axle ratio's were 5.38:1 and top speed according to the raised letter brass plate on the dash was 45 mph. The tires were military tread pattern too.
How did they jack off the whales to to to get that sperm oil? Do you know what they use to circumcise a whale? 4 skin divers!
Because he can get this at any auto parts store and only need one grease for everything. And unlike, this place it's fully compatible.