Paint job help

-
I have used the tractor paint from Valspar and rustoleum for the undersides of cars, engine compartments and frames, works well for that purpose and very cheap, it dries hard however takes a long time to dry, easily attracts dust in that time that settles into the surface. I have uses single stage from tcp global as well, in my opinion it is a very cost effect way to go if you are on a budget but do want real choice in color with true automotive paint. actually a pretty good value. as of late I have been using Wanda, made by sikkens and has incredible coverage on the base coat, about the same cost as the TCP global costs. for your $200 car... check out the Tractor paint.

also... someone mentioned this as well, make sure your first coat is a tack coat, not a full wet coat, spend some time in prep, make sure the car is clean and you invest in a couple tack cloths.
 
The orange Charger started one of the most active auto posts ever. You can find it in www.moparts.com. All sorts of cars are shown there painted with the "roll & tip" method, from Beetles to Porsches. Personally, I think using Rustoleum (Tremclad in Canada) is just too cheap. People report having to thin it a lot and use 10 coats w/ sanding in between. I plan to use a polyurethane boat paint, Interlux Brightsides, as many did in that post. It self-levels better and needs just 1-2 coats. I used it (white) w/ roll & tip on my trailer and it looks great. I did my 65 Dart engine bay, trunk, and floors with it (4 wht: 1 yell) and it looks fine. In the trunk, I sprayed it since easy to contain the spray there and many crevices. I still haven't decided whether to roll or spray it on the body. Rolling makes better use of the paint and avoids overspray everywhere. The final result comes down to how you sand anyway. I will not clear-coat, not after problems in my newer cars and the horrors you see everywhere in any parking lot. Single color is much easier to maintain and repair. Clear-coat is to move them off the showroom floor and for trailer queens, in my opinion.
 
I would try the single stage Summit paint kit.They give what you need to spray the car.
If you pick from premixed colors from the paint store they can be very reasonable,also ask about there mixed goofs they will sell them cheap also.
Last time I checked you could get black for 150.00 with the hardener.

Over the past 2 years paint and materials have went sky high,or prep the car and take it to Macco for there 199.00 special if the still have it.
 
The orange Charger started one of the most active auto posts ever. You can find it in www.moparts.com. All sorts of cars are shown there painted with the "roll & tip" method, from Beetles to Porsches. Personally, I think using Rustoleum (Tremclad in Canada) is just too cheap. People report having to thin it a lot and use 10 coats w/ sanding in between. I plan to use a polyurethane boat paint, Interlux Brightsides, as many did in that post. It self-levels better and needs just 1-2 coats. I used it (white) w/ roll & tip on my trailer and it looks great. I did my 65 Dart engine bay, trunk, and floors with it (4 wht: 1 yell) and it looks fine. In the trunk, I sprayed it since easy to contain the spray there and many crevices. I still haven't decided whether to roll or spray it on the body. Rolling makes better use of the paint and avoids overspray everywhere. The final result comes down to how you sand anyway. I will not clear-coat, not after problems in my newer cars and the horrors you see everywhere in any parking lot. Single color is much easier to maintain and repair. Clear-coat is to move them off the showroom floor and for trailer queens, in my opinion.

You say you are a cheap mopar bastard, i admire that in a man.
I happen to be one too.
How much does the Interlux Brightsides boat paint cost for a gallon roughly?
Does it come in spray bombs?
The wheels are turnin'..........
Oh, BTW, you can get Rustoleum and Tremclad in Canada. Rustoleum is a little cheaper.
For basic colors, Tremclad is a pretty cheap way to go, but i agree that it dulls out if exposed to sunlight for a year or more from my experience.
It sticks to the car like **** to a wool blanket though.
 
You say you are a cheap mopar bastard, i admire that in a man.
I happen to be one too.
How much does the Interlux Brightsides boat paint cost for a gallon roughly?
Does it come in spray bombs?
The wheels are turnin'..........
Oh, BTW, you can get Rustoleum and Tremclad in Canada. Rustoleum is a little cheaper.
For basic colors, Tremclad is a pretty cheap way to go, but i agree that it dulls out if exposed to sunlight for a year or more from my experience.
It sticks to the car like **** to a wool blanket though.

Amen, that guy is awesome. I was going to go the rustoleum route, then I had to tear too deep to not go the full way.
 
Brightsides white cost ~$70/gal when I bought a few years ago. The yellow comes only in quarts, at ~$40 I recall but only needed 1 qt at 4:1 to match the original very light yellow of my 65 Dart. I expect Interlux sells more of it for car painting after the moparts post. When I sprayed it, I used my $10 Harbor Freight gun w/ plastic reservoir on top. It is more efficient than my siphon cup gun and makes bigger drops so less waste. You don't need a fine spray since it self-levels, you just need even coverage. The roll & tip method takes more finesse, but with practice you get even coverage and no brush marks. It works best on big, flat surfaces like my smooth-sided trailer. I did have trouble around edges where paint would strip off the foam brush and want to run. That is why I decided to spray inside the trunk. The outside of my Dart is smooth and rounded, so it should work well there. I didn't have trouble with runs on my trailer, even though the surfaces were all vertical. The paint dries fast, so I had no problem with bugs and dust even painting outdoors. Still, painting always gets me jiggy since so many ways to screw up. Like knock over a pail, touch the hose or sprayer to a painted surface, have nosey family members touch the new paint, ...
 
-
Back
Top