Painting Engine Bay!

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. 340sFastback

    340sFastback Well-Known Member

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    I think they are talking about the seams where the inner fenders meet the fire wall.
     
  2. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the seams at the fire wall.

    cuda z.jpg
     
  3. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    After I stripped the paint I sanded with 120 then 180. The fenderwells I could use the electric palm sander on but the rest was by hand with or without a sanding block according to the contour of the metal. The palm sander help out a bunch to feather edges down to blend it in smooth. I couldn't get it to feather good by hand.
     
  4. cudajim

    cudajim cudajim

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    I may as well chime in here. Nice looking engine compartment. My 67 Barracuda ragtop is here: http://netlynx.us/abrodeur/cuda/rebuild.htm

    I am almost done with it, hopefully I will be driving it this summer.
    67 rag cuda. 273/904 (cause it was cheap), Accurate exhaust system, new interior etc.
    New pictures forthcoming.
     
  5. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Man that looks good!
     
  6. 1974DartSport

    1974DartSport Senior Member

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    My 74 Dart Sport has factory a/c. Try laying on your back, bending your head in contortionist style, and getting your big hand up in a small hole to change those two plastic pieces that holds the wiper together under the cowl. My hands were so cut up! I never want to do that again. A Chrysler engineer came up with this design?
     
  7. cuda65vpt

    cuda65vpt cuda65vpt

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    Mine Don't Have A/c But You Can Access Most Anything Through The Glove Box Hole Using Braille
     
  8. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    cudajim,

    I was looking at your pics again and was wondering is that a cream color or white?
     
  9. HemiPar

    HemiPar Well-Known Member

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    Sorry it took so long to respond to your question about tips to help. Well I just pulled everything out sand down to metal, welded, primed, body filler, primed, sanded and painted. I even pulled the K-member. I stood in the engine bay to paint so I had to be careful not to back into the car as I painted one side or the other. I did weld a few holes up, weld plate where the wire harness goes throu the fire wall, reason for the is I plan on using Painless wire harness.. And from what I understand it does not have a bulkhead to go throu the fire wall, just a rubber garment. So when I get the harness I will just drill a hole insert the harness and use the garment. Here is a link to my bay. If it works here is the link. good luck.

    http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=31368
     
  10. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah I remember it now. Man I hope mine turns out as nice as that! LOL

    I'm still working on it:clock:
     
  11. HemiPar

    HemiPar Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mullinax. It took me about 4 weeks to get it ready for the paint. well on and off working on it. I know have the k-member in but thats about it sonce i painted it. next i will start getting sruff like battery tray, relays and small things to finish it. motor will be the last thing to go in, about 2 years.
     
  12. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    4 weeks......I know how it feels...I have been off and on working on it myself. I'm taking lunch break now and will get back on it. LOL!


    I mentioned earlier in the thread that it just keeps mushrooming. It hasn't stopped mushrooming. I hold the drop light at various angles and see stuff that needs to be sanded smooth. Sometimes it is in a area I thought I was done! In most cases it is just a small place and I'll sand it then prime over it. I found that the Dremel took with a wire brush helps get in the nooks that I seem to not be able to get with the sandpaper.
     
  13. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Worked on my engine this weekend and got most of it together. It was just in a short block form Friday. The specs for the engine is in my singnature. I decided on a different color than the orange because I was just tired of that color. I think the black is going to look good with the green engine bay. I got TTI headers which I will put on after break in with the old headers. The valve covers will get polished so they are dirty right now. The oil pan is a Milodon which is gold but can't really tell it in the pictures. This is kind of what it's going to look like.

    DSC01425.jpg

    DSC01427.jpg
     
  14. HemiPar

    HemiPar Well-Known Member

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    mullin, thats looking real good. i can't wait till i get my egine ready to drop in. I might even work on that this summer instead of waiting for next year.
     
  15. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks... I'm trying to get the car ready to go before summer but I want to do it right and not have to be in a rush. If I don't make it this summer I will be there next year. Mistakes happen when I get in a hurry. LOL
    I might to go to a few cruises late in the summer.

    I really think I need to do something with the thermostat housing...chrome one or billet aluminum I guess.

    What kind of motor you have?
     
  16. 340sFastback

    340sFastback Well-Known Member

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    Thats gonna make a big difference when that 360 goes in there. Watch out for the after market thermostat housings. I have heard they tend to have a thin flange that warps and leaks.
     
  17. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of one of those thick flange billet aluminum. I know exactly what you are saying because I have heard that numerous of times. The billet aluminum type is that the one that warp? I know they make a steel chrome one and the billet type.
     
  18. 340sFastback

    340sFastback Well-Known Member

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    I have heard the cheapy chrome ones will definitely warp and leak. If you find a nice thick aluminum one let me know because I'd like to buy one. I run a replacement cast iron one on my aluminum Edelbrock LD340 intake. Its nice and thick; not a cheap part, but it takes special attention to get it 100% leak free because its cast iron on aluminum and they expand at different rates. Especially around that area of the engine. To get mine to seal I have to wipe the surfaces down with Brake Parts Cleaner and clean paper towels, let dry, than apply a thin film of sealer on both sides of gasket, let that set for 15 minutes, assemble and let sit over night. Then its 100% leak free. If I was casual about it I would end up with a very slight seep when the engine cools down which kind of gets annoying after a while; especially with fresh paint on the engine.
     
  19. roosduster

    roosduster Colorado Mopar

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    I bought this last year and have not installed it yet but I am hoping it gets rid of my leak.
    http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bialwane.html
     
  20. HemiPar

    HemiPar Well-Known Member

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    mullin,
    there is no way i will have mine ready for this summer. may not even by next summer.
    i would go with the alum one myself. i don't like chrome to much. i like alum way better.
    i have a 360 in a 85 Ram 350. I plan to leave it there till ready to insert it in the engine bat. it runs great but i may rebuil it before puting it in also. Or i may just paint it drop it in an rebuild it when it needs it or i have more money to get it done.
     
  21. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    The routine you use to seal up the thermostat housing is exactly how I seal mine.
     
  22. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you!

    I couldn't remember where I saw it. I'm sure it will seal your leak...those are nice.
     
  23. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think I will have mine in to next year if my friend don't do the welding I need! LOL! I don't want to rush him because he is a busy fellow. Might just buy me a welder and get some steel some where and have at it. I always wanted to learn how. Looks like the wire feed welders would be easier that the rod type.

    Yeah I will go with the aluminum type housing.

    Shoot.....if the motor dosen't smoke or leak everywhere I wouldn't rebuild.
     
  24. HemiPar

    HemiPar Well-Known Member

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    Well thats what I dun did. never welded before in my 41 years. so after i bought the car my first major tool was the welder. My son took welding in school so he learned me. i did learn that cheaper is not better. get a wire welder that uses the gas sheilding. it is a pain to fix all the blow throus.

    i was thinking the same for my motor. just pull it out of the truck, clean paint and drop it in then rebuild when needed.
     
  25. mullinax95

    mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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    Would that be called "mig welder or tig?" If I have not lost my mind but I think that I have heard it called both.
     
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