painting fastback

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Grumpyb

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Hi, Going to paint my 67 fastback and trying to figure out how much paint I need , I bought a gallon of primer from tcp global and want to buy single stage urethane paint , I need to spray the engine bay, hood underside trunk compartment and lid underside plus door jambs and door edge and bottom, first car I ever painted so am probably going to use more than a pro from what I have read , was told a gallon but I was thinking I need 2 , anyone have any knowledge on the amount I need, Thanks
 
Even though not cheap, I have to agree with buy 2 gal. We will hope you never need the half gallon of matching leftovers but,,, Nahum 2:4 comes to mind again
 
The devilblis guns are great I have the 3 gun starting line kit. I'm used to painting with the 20$ purple harbor freight one. So using the devilblis has been a dream so far.
 
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Hi, Going to paint my 67 fastback and trying to figure out how much paint I need , I bought a gallon of primer from tcp global and want to buy single stage urethane paint , I need to spray the engine bay, hood underside trunk compartment and lid underside plus door jambs and door edge and bottom, first car I ever painted so am probably going to use more than a pro from what I have read , was told a gallon but I was thinking I need 2 , anyone have any knowledge on the amount I need, Thanks
Maybe some guys could do all that with one gallon, but I doubt it. I have had professional painters tell me that they could paint a whole car with a quart of paint. I say BS. You want to have plenty of good coverage, and you won't get that by trying to stretch one gallon out for the whole car.
When I painted my car, I bought my paint from TCP Global. I like their paint. I have used it a lot. It sprays as nice, covers as nice and polishes out as nice as any name brand paint I have ever used. Anyway, I bought 2 gallons. I painted pretty much everything like you are planning to do. I wound up using all but about a quart. I like having some left over. That way, if you need to paint a door or fender at some point in the future, you will have exact matching paint to use. I had to paint my hood a while back, and I was thankful to have that left over paint. I got an exact match. It is also handy for touching up chips and scratches.
Here is an example of TCP Global paint. If you have any questions on body work, priming or painting ask here on the forum or feel free to PM me.

Cuda57.JPG


Cuda58.JPG
 
Amount used can depend on color, some take more coats than other, single stage. Some colors are more translucent.
How the gun is set up means a lot also. A lot of material can be wasted.
Using the correct color sealer makes a difference.
On a metallic, that final coat is a mist to lay down metallic, which of course, takes little.
One that size car, 1 gal. would do it for me, and a very small amount left over. 2-3 medium coats. Jams, under hood and trunk lid, trunk floor just 2 coats. I don't shoot the bottom of car nor inside floor pans with topcoat. Some (off brand) cars , the trunk floor is a spatter paint not topcoat! ha But, I always want some paint left for touch up. But, at the price of topcoat, I don't want to pay for an extra gal. if not needed.

I have used TCP Globals (DTM) primers, etc. and they change their formula from time to time. I liked them better years ago than now. I much prefer SPI primers. Much.

I agree with Harrison, I have had good results with TCP Global's single stage acrylic urethanes topcoats mixed with their old PPG formulas. I admit I have never shot anything with the "$1200" per gal topcoats or a $500 gun. I am just a DIY "duffer".
If I use say, PPG mixed here local, I want them to be sure to print the formular used on the can!
 
Hi, Going to paint my 67 fastback and trying to figure out how much paint I need , I bought a gallon of primer from tcp global and want to buy single stage urethane paint , I need to spray the engine bay, hood underside trunk compartment and lid underside plus door jambs and door edge and bottom, first car I ever painted so am probably going to use more than a pro from what I have read , was told a gallon but I was thinking I need 2 , anyone have any knowledge on the amount I need, Thanks
If you never sprayed before dont use a single stage. Its so much harder to spray. I always figure a gallon of color for the outside & a quart for the jambs. Depending on what color sealer or primer you are spraying over spray at least 3 coats. Are set on spraying it yourself ?
 
I researched the single vs bc/cc and there are as many for as against but the thing that sold me on single was a friend of my sons who restores cars and people regularly fork over 50 to 100 grand for him to restore their cars and he said if you miss something on the base , a flaw , when you spray the clear on it will stand out like a sore thumb and then you have to paint the whole panel or side of the car to match the paint, It's not going to be a museum piece or grave yard car but no matter how it turns out it will be 10 times better than what I have now.
 
Thats what i do restore antique / classic cars. I never had issues with matching or blending colors. Is ita metallic color ?
 
I like single stage because it is what the factory did. But, I hate looking at any car with the clear peeling, I rather deal with old single stage that can be wet sanded and buffed and brought back to life, IF a non metallic.
 
With the paint I'm getting it's 329 a gallon but 150 a quart so I'm better off just buying the 2nd gallon
$329 a gallon?? Wtf... It can't possibly cost the manufacturers hundreds of dollars to produce that stuff. I guess it's like pharmaceuticals, they charge $200 for a pill that costs $1.00 to make..
 
Maybe it has all gone up again! Usually 3 qts. equal the price of a gal.
Heck, I see guys blowing about giving $1000-1200/gal. for topcoat! Heck, my project cars usually don't cost much than that!!! :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :thumbsup:
 
I like single stage because it is what the factory did. But, I hate looking at any car with the clear peeling, I rather deal with old single stage that can be wet sanded and buffed and brought back to life, IF a non metallic.
If the clear is peeling then the person who sprayed it didnt do it right. You can only wet sand and buff single stage so many times before your through.
 
$329 a gallon?? Wtf... It can't possibly cost the manufacturers hundreds of dollars to produce that stuff. I guess it's like pharmaceuticals, they charge $200 for a pill that costs $1.00 to make..
You think $329 per gallon is expensive? I guess you either don't paint cars or haven't bought car paint for 25 years. 12 Years ago when I painted my Barracuda with TCP Base/Clear, I paid $200 per gallon for the base coat. At the time, PPG was about $400 per gallon. Now, the same paint from TCP Global is $439 per gallon and name brand paint is $700+. Some of the higher end paints are $1000 per gallon. And it IS very expensive to produce paint. Lots of chemistry, lots of research, VERY expensive equipment, very expensive to maintain EPA guidelines, and the price of their raw materials if very high. If you are going to paint your car yourself and do it right, plan on about $5,000 for materials alone for name brand paints and about $2500-$3,000 if you use a budget paint like TCP-Global. Ther are some cheap kits you can buy, and they are OK, but not great. In my opinion, to do it right, you need to strip it completely to bare metal; door jams, back of hood and decklid, etc. Then you need to spray the bare metal with epoxy primer. Then you need to do body work. Filler, sandpaper and spot filler is not cheap. Then you need to spray on about 3 coats of good high build primer and block sand it with guide coat. If there are any bad/low spots, you have to fix them and then spray on more primer and block sand again with guide coat. It sounds like a lot of primer, but you sand most of it off. Then you need to wet sand. Then you need to wipe the car down with a good wax and grease remover and then tack rag it. Then You spray the paint AFTER spraying on a coat of sealer. I would NEVER paint a car without sealer. If you do base/clear you will have to wet sand the clear and polish it out. By the time you buy epoxy primer + the hardener, body work supplies, High build primer, sandpaper (wet and dry), Sealer + the hardener, paint + hardener, Clear + hardener, assorted reducers for the different paints and primers, polishing compounds and a bunch of miscellaneous stuff, you are easily at $2500 - $5000. You might be able to save a little here and there, but your paint job is what everybody sees. It's not the place to cut corners.
 

And it IS very expensive to produce paint. Lots of chemistry, lots of research, VERY expensive equipment, very expensive to maintain EPA guidelines, and the price of their raw materials if very high.
Only this part of your post was related to my statement. But protecting the manufacturer and their astronomical markups by justifying paying $1000 for a gallon of paint is rediculous. That's like two people who want to go from the office to the supermarket, but one buys a $35k Hyundai and the other buys a $120k Cadillac. Do they still get to the supermarket at the same time? I'd say yes. Personally I wouldn't give $200 for a $120k Cadillac but there are alot of (smart?) people who would.
 
If the clear is peeling then the person who sprayed it didnt do it right. You can only wet sand and buff single stage so many times before your through.
How many"modern" cars with some age have the clear peeling?? Plenty. Not if they sit in a garage 24v hrs a day though.

But I have done many old Mopars with the "cheap" single stage PPG or TCP Global and they sat outside for more than a few years, and it held up well. BUT I am not a show car guy. I want a solid "driver" with NO rust and reasonably straight to suit me. I want all the material to cost me under $1500. I usually have some primers left over from a previous car, so even less usually.

My old "classics" have always come and gone. I always have to chuckle when a buyer comes t look, and he tells me how he sees some "flaws" in the paint job. I ask him what a perfect show job will cost roughly and he says maybe $8-10,000. Then I ask if he expects a $20,000 car for $6500????? :thumbsup:
 
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