Panel lamps out - fuse OK

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scamp80602

Life Long MOPAR Man
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I have no panel lamps on my 1975 Scamp. The fuse to the circuit is OK. The shifter,ash tray,radio, and heater control lamps are OK and dim properly with the dimmer on the headlight switch. The service manual shows a connector with ground and + coming from the ash tray light up to the round cluster connector, through 2 cables/connectors. One of these may be disconnected - I'll check when I find them, but here's the question: Is there any component (resistor, transformer, regulator, etc..) on the cluster PCB in the lamp circuit that might have failed? I see no schematic of the actual cluster in the service manual and nothing in the wiring diagram that would indicate there's something there, but I thought the A-Body experts here would know for sure!! Thanks in advance!!
 
If only your cluster lights are not working...your right it's not the fuse, however there's a good chance that the cluster connector pin is loose. These are not getting any younger and the pins tend to come loose on the board itself. #1. Firstly without removing your cluster or connector, (if dark enough), turn on your parking lights and reach up under the dash from the right side. (Yes it's tight)! Feel around until you can touch the back of the connector and "gently" give it a slight push or a canting motion. If your lights flicker or come on...that's your problem area. #2. 75..could be different..You may have to remove your light switch as (1) of the spade pins in that connector go's to your cluster for "ONLY" the panals instrument lights. It may have shorted or even fallen back not making a connection. You should be able to remove the light switch by reaching up and pushing on the little button to remove the light knob itself by pulling it stright out, then remove the hold on nut with needle nose pliers. The switch and connector should fall out and down behind the fuse box. If possible pull it down a little more so you can inspect the connectors female spades to ensure their not loose. If your cluster has to come out....have a voltmeter and check to ensure you have 12V coming out of the connector (with parking lights on). You can tell which pin it is by looking at the back of your cluster and following the light bulbs "runs" to which pin. If you find your connector has 12V......Then it could be a shorted run between your clusters pin and your first inline bulb on the circuit board.
Blah-blah, but I hope it helps some!
 
Also, unless it changed in later years, it's the orange wire that goes to the cluster connector that feeds the instrument lights. You could probe that wire to see if there's power when the headlights are on.
 
70Duster440 said:
Also, unless it changed in later years, it's the orange wire that goes to the cluster connector that feeds the instrument lights. You could probe that wire to see if there's power when the headlights are on.
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Your right 70Duster, I checked a few of my clusters and on the "board" itself its is the orange #4 pin starting from the top notch or backwards on the connector. It should give him something to start with. Thanks
 
Wasn't there a voltage regulator on the cluster that dropped the voltage down for the lights and such....maybe that went bad or the terminal are corroded?
 
Dusterb318 said:
Wasn't there a voltage regulator on the cluster that dropped the voltage down for the lights and such....maybe that went bad or the terminal are corroded?
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Nope! The voltage reg is for the heat/fuel. The cluster lights used a direct 12Volts from the light switch...as in turning on your parking or headlights. Again thats why your switch can control the clusters dimming. Don't get me wrong, as stated earlier, some clusters light runs may run off from a ash try light or something but it is direct from the switch via batt fuse box
 
Okay...I knew it was back there for something...thanks for straightening me out.
 
Thanks everyone for the tips! All are very much appreciated! I should have a chance to get in there this weekend to do some more investigation. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress! Thanks so much again! This is just a great forum!
:cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
scamp80602 said:
Thanks everyone for the tips! All are very much appreciated! I should have a chance to get in there this weekend to do some more investigation. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress! Thanks so much again! This is just a great forum!
:cheers::cheers::cheers:
Click to expand...

Never a problem dude! That's what were all about here (just brothers helping) :cheers:
 
Got a quick question along the same lines...I have a 71 swinger and the cluster lights don't work. I replaced the blown 3amp fuse today and it blew as soon as I turned on the headlights. Any suggestions on where to begin? I am assuming it is shorted or going to ground somwhere
 
keith9291 said:
Got a quick question along the same lines...I have a 71 swinger and the cluster lights don't work. I replaced the blown 3amp fuse today and it blew as soon as I turned on the headlights. Any suggestions on where to begin? I am assuming it is shorted or going to ground somwhere
Click to expand...

Yes, sounds like a short! Again if it's "only" your cluster lights not working "I" would start by checking your light switch connector pin for the short...If not that, with the batt cable off, do a continuity check between the "light switche cluster light pin" and clusters connector to see if it's grounding in that run. Hopefully, it's not somewhere under your dash in your wiring itself.
 
The cluster lights don't work nor does the ashtray light or the ignition switch lamp. With it being more than just the cluster lights should I still start at the light switch? I am pretty sure the ashtray light comes on with the headlights but not sure about the ignition lamp w/time delay. Could this be two different problems? Does the ignition lamp w/time delay have a relay or something in its circuit for the delay?
 
keith9291 said:
The cluster lights don't work nor does the ashtray light or the ignition switch lamp. With it being more than just the cluster lights should I still start at the light switch? I am pretty sure the ashtray light comes on with the headlights but not sure about the ignition lamp w/time delay. Could this be two different problems? Does the ignition lamp w/time delay have a relay or something in its circuit for the delay?
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Yes, you may have two problems..
You stated you kept on blowing fuses? Really sounds like a "hot short". Your going to have to find that first.
Start at your light switch and inspect the connector if a connector spade has backed off. Also, the problem could be at your cluster connector (pin shorting out). If I'm correct I think your your circuit for the cluster also splices for any other "dash" lights..IE ashtray, temp controls. You must understand that's why when you dim your cluster lights with the switch knob all the other dash lights dim as well. NOTE....If "for sure" your ashtray light comes on with the parking/headlights...then its quite possible that your light switch connector is fine because your ashtray light works, however it's possible that the "one" wire going to the cluster for the lights is shorted at your clusters connector pin as stated earlier. I would suggest you pull your complete cluster and do continuity check (power off) to find your problem..As for your ignition light, I don't think your ignition light (for the key) is on that same circuit as your cluster lights. Your ignition light should be on your dome or door light circuit. The ignition light should turn on when you open the door. The time delay will stay on for a short time after you close the door. Open your door, if the dome comes on..re-check your ignition light bulb and or socket. If no power, check for 12V "before" the delay switch to see if the switch itself is toast.
 
I found the problem: after taking the cluster out for inspection, I found EVERY ONE of the 7 panel lamp plastic carriers with at least 1, if not 2 broken index/lock tabs - proper contact was not being made from the carrier contact to the circuit board. Does anyone know where I can get 7 panel lamp plastic carriers?? I'd love to have them before I put the cluster back in place!!!! Oh well - I needed to remove the cluster to replace the LH defroster vent anyway!!!!!! Thanks for all the help - I learned A LOT about the cluster wiring!!!
 
scamp80602 said:
I found the problem: after taking the cluster out for inspection, I found EVERY ONE of the 7 panel lamp plastic carriers with at least 1, if not 2 broken index/lock tabs - proper contact was not being made from the carrier contact to the circuit board. Does anyone know where I can get 7 panel lamp plastic carriers?? I'd love to have them before I put the cluster back in place!!!! Oh well - I needed to remove the cluster to replace the LH defroster vent anyway!!!!!! Thanks for all the help - I learned A LOT about the cluster wiring!!!
Click to expand...

I used to get them at NAPA.........but I haven't bought any in awhile so I don't know if they still have them.
 
Thanks Robert! I actually found 8 unbroken ones in a parts car locally this afternoon, so I'm all set. next time I go to NAPA, I'll check for future reference!!! Thanks!
 
There is a dimmer feature/failure built into the headlight switch. Most folks by a entire new switch just for that problem. I find it very simple to solder in a jumper on the switch and have bright as possible dash lights at all times.
 
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