Wcalmt
Active Member
having trouble with getting spark out of distributor just rebuilt the engine with Clifford Performance rebuild kit, and twin Weber 38 intake, and a Pertronix Ignitor II electronic ignition? Any ideas?
Pertronix Ignitor II
- Thread starter Wcalmt
- Start date
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Slowswinger
Well-Known Member
I am having the same problem with an ignitor two. I left a message and 6 hours later I received a call back. I don't have my notes with me but remember the tech saying that your coil ohm's ( - to + nothing connected )had to be between .4 and 1.5 no more no less. The voltage at the + on the coil had to be no less than 11V and that the base plate for the unit had to have a good ground (no resistance between the unit and ground). My coil measured 2.0 ohms. I'm not impressed, I think I will just go with an electronic distributor and trailbeast's coil.
moe7404
moe7404
if you realy want to be old school get a Delta MK 10 B. AND even run points. they should last a very long time. i had 2 tricks on points i could get 20,000 miles.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Moe instead of posting useless crap you think is funny, how about some actual, helpful, correct information? Yeh. A Mk 10. With a 30 year old capacitor. THAT should work. yeh
57dodged100
Well-Known Member
Was the distributor working properly before you installed the pertronix? My ignitor II went in (with their high output coil) without any troubles. Super easy. Been working great about 1 year. Did you delete the ballast resistor? What else, if anything, did you change during this upgrade?
moe7404
moe7404
gee thanks 67dart273 thats so help full. does your mom know you talk like that? i come here to try and help. but if you think iam not helping. i will stop. by.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Hey OP,
First important question: is there a new cam in this rebuild? If so, you don't want to be cranking and cranking to test the spark; it will be bad for the new cam. Old cam: OK to crank some.
If you can't crank due to a new cam, then turn the crank over by grabbing the pulley and turn while watching the distributor button and the ignition trigger is almost to the sensor. AT this postio you can turn the distribuor button by about 15 degrees or maybe more and move the trigger wheel repeatedly past the sensor points.
Either way, get the trigger to move, and have the wire form the coil tower about 1/4" away from metal on the block and see if you have good spark that way. This takes the cap, button and other park plug wires out of the picture and tests the coil and ignitor.
If no good this way, then with a voltmeter to see if you have close the battery voltages at the coil + with the ignition in RUN, but the engine not running.
As above, make sure the ballast is out.
First important question: is there a new cam in this rebuild? If so, you don't want to be cranking and cranking to test the spark; it will be bad for the new cam. Old cam: OK to crank some.
If you can't crank due to a new cam, then turn the crank over by grabbing the pulley and turn while watching the distributor button and the ignition trigger is almost to the sensor. AT this postio you can turn the distribuor button by about 15 degrees or maybe more and move the trigger wheel repeatedly past the sensor points.
Either way, get the trigger to move, and have the wire form the coil tower about 1/4" away from metal on the block and see if you have good spark that way. This takes the cap, button and other park plug wires out of the picture and tests the coil and ignitor.
If no good this way, then with a voltmeter to see if you have close the battery voltages at the coil + with the ignition in RUN, but the engine not running.
As above, make sure the ballast is out.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The Ignitor II is similar to a GM HEI module. It works best with a low-resistance e-core coil, so get one of those ($20 Chinese, Magnum engine, GM external, Ford TFI, ...). If Slowswinger switches to TrailBeast' kit, he will still need one of those coils to get a quality spark. Ditto for Ignitor III, and only keep the factory coil with ballast if using the original Ignitor.
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