"Piggy Back" Fuse available for Glass Fuse?

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dibbons

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I would like to know if a company manufactures (or anyone clever has fabricated) a way to piggyback onto an old style glass fuse? I just want to tap into the instrument/dash panel illumination so that my aftermarket oil pressure gauge can be read after dark. I just don't like splicing into factory wiring harness if I don't have to. It would be cool if I could just clip something over one end of the dash light fuse that is there in the fuse block. Thank you.

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The back side of a fuse block sometimes has take offs.

Internet pic for illustrative purposes.
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Back in the day, we would just use a standard male spade connector and put a curve in it the same radius as the fuse. Then just slip it in between the fuse and it's terminal.
 
I would like to know if a company manufactures (or anyone clever has fabricated) a way to piggyback onto an old style glass fuse? I just want to tap into the instrument/dash panel illumination so that my aftermarket oil pressure gauge can be read after dark. I just don't like splicing into factory wiring harness if I don't have to. It would be cool if I could just clip something over one end of the dash light fuse that is there in the fuse block. Thank you.

View attachment 1716176524


If you are not using the factory radio, I use the orange connector/wire from the radio for my aftermarket gauge lights... That way they brighten and dim with the dash lights...

The orange wires under the dash are usually in the same circuit as the dash lights....
 
I don't know the year you're working on, but @krazykuda's tactic is a good one.
Look for an unused circuit branch. Shop manual diagram should clue if there was one for optional console or other gage lighting.
Definately several ways to skin this cat.

Connector on right is the one on a '67 for console or console tach. When installed the connector is close to the ashtray
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Those piggy back "stak-on" or spade connectors come in a few different configuration.
Handy for different space limitations. Not super easy to find, though.

Also, for lighting, there should be a wire somewhere behind the dash, that has an orange, three socket end.

It's for lights in an optional console, among other things.

Usually, unless your car has a console, 2 of the 3 are unused.
 
Backyard mechanic me, has also just tinned the end of the wire, bent in to a U shape, and clipped that under the protected end of the fuse.
 
Those piggy back "stak-on" or spade connectors come in a few different configuration.
Handy for different space limitations. Not super easy to find, though.








 
Backyard mechanic me, has also just tinned the end of the wire, bent in to a U shape, and clipped that under the protected end of the fuse.
I'm the same. Normally I don't like to piggy back on fuses, I'd rather splice into a wire and add another tail. But I have done this also.
 
Insulation displacement connectors work great for what you are doing. The gel coat type have an anticorrosive gel inside the connector. Put 2 wires in snap the lid and your done! (with corrosion protection). They make them with multiple wiring spaces as well. I can't post pictures but you can look them up by name.
 
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Insulation displacement connectors.
3m "scotchlock"
nononononononononoooooooooo, don't EVER use scotchloks in automotive wiring, hell, I'd go so far as to say don't ever use them anywhere, period. 3M will use the fancy sounding "insulation displacement connector" because it's a euphemism for "cutting through the sheath that's supposed to protect the wire and cutting the wire inside too."
Being kicked in the groin isn't as bad as the pain and suffering these things generate for the people that have to troubleshoot electrical gremlins caused by these cancers. The gel might, might, protect against corrosion, but as mentioned, the blades of these abominations cut into individual strands of the conductor inside the wire, increasing resistance and this is just the tip of the iceberg. I revive this thread solely because that is how much I hate these things. They only exist because they are easy and quick...and when it comes to electricity, everything bad happens when you want it done easy and quick.
 
Good price bad i used tge plug and play Flex Fuse Piggy Back before without problem

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Sniff sniff..... Does anyone smell burning plastic?

I hope that this add on wiring question is so you can power a key-on relay to run your stuff through a completely new circuit tapped from the battery....

Please tell me that was the case two plus years ago? (I'm posting this for any future readers of this thread).

Yes those methods work, but I'm here to tell you, it's too easy to overload fifty year old wiring that was had it's own design issues to begin with.
 
This what you are looking for? It is called a fuse tap for glass fuses.I see Dan posted this earlier but it bears repeating.
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Sniff sniff..... Does anyone smell burning plastic?

I hope that this add on wiring question is so you can power a key-on relay to run your stuff through a completely new circuit tapped from the battery....

Please tell me that was the case two plus years ago? (I'm posting this for any future readers of this thread).

Yes those methods work, but I'm here to tell you, it's too easy to overload fifty year old wiring that was had it's own design issues to begin with.
I thought the OP wanted to add a single light bulb for a gauge like water temp- oil. Not a high power radio and a few amps. Neon lights under car. And a few other things. Common sense add on not stupidity comes into play here.
The factory added small things like a Map Light to a circuit.
 
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I thought the OP wanted to add a single light bulb for a gauge like water temp- oil. Not a high power radio and acfew amps. Neon lights under car. And a few other things. Common sense add on not stupidity comes into play here.
The factory added small things like a Map Light to a circuit.
Agreed, but it needed to be said for the kiddos that do want to add all the gizmos and gadgets that they sell at the Vatozone.
 
I thought the OP wanted to add a single light bulb for a gauge like water temp- oil
That is exactly what Dibbons asked for. That is why I suggested looking for a connector in the dash illumination circuit. There's often one or more open for options such as consoles, gear selector light in the column for a floor shifted car, etc. Otherwise yes one can branch from that circuit at the fuse on the side with the orange wire. Lets see if that side is open for a piggyback
edit. It looks like on '67 up no because the wire is crimped to the fuse holder, on '66 down, probably yes.
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That is exactly what Dibbons asked for. That is why I suggested looking for a connector in the dash illumination circuit. There's often one or more open for options such as consoles, gear selector light in the column for a floor shifted car, etc. Otherwise yes one can branch from that circuit at the fuse on the side with the orange wire. Lets see if that side is open for a piggyback
edit. It looks like on '67 up no because the wire is crimped to the fuse holder, on '66 down, probably yes.
View attachment 1716452062
Yes there should be some unused one's. The factory had add ons that just plugged in. They were tossing these cars together fast going down the line.
 
Add a simple light to an existing circuit but much more than that should have it's own power source. Check your accessories for power input needs. The 50 year old bulkhead connectors were close to being overloaded originally.
 
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