Piker Porting (Intake Manifolds)

-
1

12many

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2016
Messages
3,571
Reaction score
4,694
Location
SC
Trial balloon thread for anyone who cares to show any intake they are porting/have ported (or a porting service performed) cleaning/cleaned up etc. Giving details and pictures of the particular intake along with tools used might be helpful to the next guy contemplating doing their own work. Any intake, any level or work performed welcome.

Everybody likes a little show and tell right?
Most posts about his topic are scattered all over amongst posts about builds, specific intakes, or intermingled within various other topics and take some searching to find. Maybe something “centralized” might be of value.....

Hopefully this can be just posts of work done, some details of the application and results (if desired) to give others motivation and not turn in to a **** show, devolve into arguments and resultant catastrophic train wreck.

Post up :thumbsup:
 
12many said:
You do that, or your son? I forget who does the actual work that you occasionally post about.:poke:
Click to expand...
Gasket matching

gasket manufacturers make the perimeter of the gasket sealing surface larger than the opening that is to be sealed so that the gasket will accommodate the normal casting and machining shift that occur. There is no need to blow out the cylinder head port opening and the intake port opening to match the size of the gasket.
What you do want to do is check to make sure the intake port walls align to the cylinder head port walls.
To do that get a single piece of paper about the thickness of normal copy paper that will cover the length of the cylinder head port deck from end to end and top to bottom.
Punch holes that fit tightly to a couple of the mounting bolts and insert the bolts to hold the paper in position. Then take a light hammer and tap on the port edges to mark and cut the port openings out. Write on the paper template: intake face and front and rear in the correct areas. Then remove the paper template and place it on the correct intake face in the position that would match the cylinder head using the bolts to align the template.
What you now have is a visual that shows how well that cylinder head fits to that intake. If there are walls that do not match perfectly, clean then up so they do match.
For a v engine, do repeat for the other bank.
 
Here’s a Victor 340 I’ve been working on. Addressing the actual plenum opening, to closely match the carb gasket, radiusing the flanges into the runner roofs, fixing the divider leading edges, etc. I scribe for the roof radius’s for consistency on all runners.
Use Harbor Freight professional air grinder and TTC & T&O double cut burrs (1/2” oval, 3/8” trees and a 3/8” straight/radius end) Rough everything in, go over it again, sand roll/smooth out afterwards




7E68A787-C20B-4DC4-BEAC-AAD120989081.jpeg


1F3A8DD0-2D2D-476E-8C25-1C881DE9ED1D.jpeg


F7A1EA5F-04AD-4AE4-BD62-DBA34FBDC075.jpeg


AAB10C38-FDBF-47C0-9A40-8DCB16F134A1.jpeg


CAA4A4F8-0A74-4A09-9CAF-02592586DBC8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Some plenum and divider work, ootb and worked over. Various bulges, rough casting, globs etc cleaned up:

42C058B6-201F-4FE8-83E1-1687405DBF4A.jpeg


C50A7814-43F2-4889-8601-616E80D22FC8.jpeg


3D47E438-0FB8-40F9-B09A-5F6DCD149CBC.jpeg


CDCD8F19-466E-47CF-9E32-74B2B0F0D739.jpeg


59B45B9B-E092-47A3-8B97-7E961CAD943C.jpeg


553C1B83-3B65-4259-904A-BA5DE90719BF.jpeg


2B9CB7CA-0CB1-4FAB-A1AE-1381160C5866.jpeg


3D7CEC88-31E4-48E8-A3B5-781615E6C449.jpeg


0CFB2FCA-C2AB-4CB5-BA72-C6CED511EC59.jpeg


2D3A0E13-A49F-450B-A87D-C2B979600EE7.jpeg
 
You can pull that radius up higher than that. Take the kinks out of the divide walls. Make those walls as “flat” as you can. Don’t worry if they get sharp because you are tying to get the runners equal.
 
12many said:
You do that, or your son? I forget who does the actual work that you occasionally post about.:poke:
Click to expand...
He does it now. I am retired/banned from the shop. I only go there to give lessons when needed. Who's shop do you think he is working in. He just has better eyes and a tad more knowledge. LOL . Oh yeah He's bigger then me now and talks back.
 
Rat Bastid said:
You can pull that radius up higher than that. Take the kinks out of the divide walls. Make those walls as “flat” as you can. Don’t worry if they get sharp because you are tying to get the runners equal.
Click to expand...
Only reason those two areas you mention are as they are is that I’m always hesitant to “go more” at the beginning, especially at the roof radius. This crude sketch shows where they are now:

5902E4A0-1B65-448D-9E91-92B6DC4259DC.jpeg

19D23DE3-B2CB-4EED-AED1-AD39C0794451.jpeg

9F09402C-EE03-46C1-BE5F-74743E33534D.jpeg

70BE76B0-D499-4210-A9E3-7E96979694EE.jpeg





I’ve seen mention elsewhere of straightening the walls of these intakes, along with yours, makes sense and Ill likely come back to that and work them some more. I always do a few rounds vs. one shot when it comes to this stuff. Do what I think looks right, makes sense, take some input, add it all up and hopefully end up with something done right. I don’t mind as it’s tinkering ....

Straighten:

3AE455AF-0D2C-4611-B5D4-18C6552ECBE5.jpeg
 
Last edited:
This is my W2 Victor. I am hoping to extend the RPMs out to around 7k .
Power dropped at 6200 when I dynoed it and I just felt heads flowing 297 cfm @ .650 lift and a 246/250 @ .050 on a 108 cam should have reved higher.

4519DEAA-CA37-4F1D-BB3B-D439A52CC631.jpeg


8A29E5C5-8587-4101-B41F-799534B84DD2.jpeg


F040DFBF-2AF2-4F2E-B50B-CB92A79DE655.jpeg


FB011278-FF62-419C-8693-39ACE3440A21.jpeg


4F1A2848-ED59-4A42-9C87-409B6BC00EB4.jpeg
 
Take a cheap fiber intake gasket and mount it up. Torque it down....remove it and look at both sides. Youll see the port prints on both sides and use those to determine if the ports are matched up. Belling out either port to match the gasket is not going to help as they need a smooth transistion, not a big ground out ditch to traverse and then neck back down again into the intake port. Just dont go crazy. Why someone is not making ultra precise injection molded high temp intakes for these older V8's baffles me. A lot cheaper and more precise than sand cast AL with all its sacrificial cores, likely shifting and lack of superior O-ring sealing the plastics offer.
 
12many said:
Only reason those two areas you mention are as they are is that I’m always hesitant to “go more” at the beginning, especially at the roof radius. This crude sketch shows where they are now:

View attachment 1715857720
View attachment 1715857726
View attachment 1715857736
View attachment 1715857747




I’ve seen mention elsewhere of straightening the walls of these intakes, along with yours, makes sense and Ill likely come back to that and work them some more. I always do a few rounds vs. one shot when it comes to this stuff. Do what I think looks right, makes sense, take some input, add it all up and hopefully end up with something done right. I don’t mind as it’s tinkering ....

Straighten:

View attachment 1715857728
Click to expand...


In your bottom picture you can see the divider wall heading off to the left at the bottom. I would grind that area until it wasn’t heading to the left like that.

I wish I had something out in the shop to show what I’m saying better.

As soon as the wife gets back from town I’m going out to try out my new cutters.
 
Rat Bastid said:
In your bottom picture you can see the divider wall heading off to the left at the bottom. I would grind that area until it wasn’t heading to the left like that.

I wish I had something out in the shop to show what I’m saying better.

As soon as the wife gets back from town I’m going out to try out my new cutters.
Click to expand...
I understand what your referring to, reduce the bottom and top “inside” wall of each divider and if needed, “maybe” reduce the middle of the outside of each divider wall to get them straight.

47B9DF3E-1BC4-4B6D-9748-4EA59370D309.jpeg
 
pishta said:
Why someone is not making ultra precise injection molded high temp intakes for these older V8's baffles me.
Click to expand...
You’re looking at $50,000-$100,000 for the mold especially if it’s steel and not aluminum. Aluminum molds don’t last very long but are cheaper to make.
 
gzig5 said:
You’re looking at $50,000-$100,000 for the mold especially if it’s steel and not aluminum. Aluminum molds don’t last very long but are cheaper to make.
Click to expand...
3d print one with high temp media. I understand the technique, why are molds so expensive? Seems you could make 2 molds: top and bottom and then just bolt them together. I have a friend that makes molds for cosmetics, a 2 part "shoe" CNC negative ground out of a block of metal, put them together and inject the nylon embedded plastic, break the molds apart 5 seconds later, pop out the profuct and make the next one. Same for taillights. Once you make the molds. The parts are pennies a piece and production time is seconds. It would just be CNC time and design. I wonder what tooling costs for the 318-360 Performer was, they popped out thousands of them....
 
Per RB’s recommendation, divider straightened removing material from upper and lower inside wall, a little from the middle of the outside wall. Blended down into the runner 1-1/2” or so. Three to go:thumbsup:

Left divider not straightened yet, right is completed:

0D9E81B4-C1FD-43D7-ADA7-4C5D4A0D9B4C.jpeg


4C8D77AD-4A3D-4AE0-955E-2D2CCE37B8F7.jpeg


940CB9F8-173B-4349-9F1D-EF9FB3365ABA.jpeg
 
12many said:
Per RB’s recommendation, divider straightened removing material from upper and lower inside wall, a little from the middle of the outside wall. Blended down into the runner 1-1/2” or so. Three to go:thumbsup:

Left divider not straightened yet, right is completed:

View attachment 1715859290

View attachment 1715859291

View attachment 1715859292
Click to expand...
A question, do you have data from a flow bench that indicates the changes made to the walls are beneficial or even make an impact? Or are the changes made simply an eyeball interpretation of what you think the air flow likes?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top