Plastic Hood Scoop to Metal Hood?

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matthon

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The scoop has a flange on it, so I was thinking about welding a small square tube frame together, tacking it under the hood, and mounting the scoop from below. I already cut a small hole to get an idea of what it would look like, and with the 2 hood bulges still in the front it looks pretty cool, to me anyways.
Where the chrome inserts were I'm going to weld in pieces of metal. I will also level the scoop and leave the car at the current stance so the scoop will be lower at the rear.
The hood also has some rust issues, so I'll see if I can fix that too.

People tell me I should put a Hemi scoop on it, but it wasn't around in 67, and I think that has been done already.

What do you think?

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I think it looks good... If you're going for the ole' school look, I'd rivet it on and put on some hood pins...
 
I was actually going to do both, and I even put a few rivets in and drove it around. It is a little too high, but the height will be dictated by the velocity stack that should be here tomorrow.
Old school is cool, the rear end was actually painted white when I got it, but it has since flaked off, should I repaint it?

I'll post a few pics when all is said and done.

Extra hood and scoop from FABO, thank you!
 
I was actually going to do both, and I even put a few rivets in and drove it around. It is a little too high, but the height will be dictated by the velocity stack that should be here tomorrow.
Old school is cool, the rear end was actually painted white when I got it, but it has since flaked off, should I repaint it?

I'll post a few pics when all is said and done.

Extra hood and scoop from FABO, thank you!

Do you mean the rear end housing was painted white?? I'd probably go satan black rear end housing, maybe paint the drums a chevy orange (will really set off those cragars), and find some of the big *** ole school traction bars that really hang down and paint them bright yellow, do you know the bars I'm talking about??? Thay look baddass wicked on any mopar.. If i'm not mistaken the last time I surfed ebay mopar hood pins were pretty cheap, like the 1970 GTX's and Runners had...
 
Lakewood still makes the cool bars, thay must have brung them back.. I love these under a mopar, bright yellow...

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Lakewood still makes the cool bars, thay must have brung them back.. I love these under a mopar, bright yellow...

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..........I hope you're kidding...........????????????? I thought traction bars does nothing for a mopar spring system....
 
We're talkin' ole school hot roddin'... Before yur time..

Traction bars will work on any leaf spring set up if adjusted right..
 
I heard they do nothing because the rear is actually in the ideal position on the springs.
It has them already, they are a one piece spring plate/shock mount/traction bar.
The story goes the original owner put them on along with the Cragars and other stuff.

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I heard they do nothing because the rear is actually in the ideal position on the springs.
It has them already, they are a one piece spring plate/shock mount/traction bar.
The story goes the original owner put them on along with the Cragars and other stuff.

Those plate bars like you have do work, if the rubber snubber is directly below the front leaf spring eye...
 
We're talkin' ole school hot roddin'... Before yur time..

Traction bars will work on any leaf spring set up if adjusted right..
they sure worked on my Duster...and my wheel-alignment-guy said they were the only set he'd ever seen installed so that they would actually work.
 
The guy isn't building a hi-tech 2010 machine here..

Oh really? For your information I'm planning on using my brand new 2010 roll of duct tape to attach the scoop.

I actually want to do an accurate representation of what a late 60's early 70's muscle car would be- bought new and brought home where the first thing to go on is the Cragars and it goes from there. This would also be what I would do if I could have bought it new.

The one thing I am undecided on is the paint. When I strip it eventually I'll be able to tell if it ever had a whacky paint job or not.

Does anyone remember those paint jobs where they would tape off the upper and lower 2 inches or so of the side of the car, then spray the car with another color only along the tape and down the middle of the front and rear door gaps?

I remember seeing it on the 'top end' cars way back, but I cannot find any pics.
 
Those plate bars like you have do work, if the rubber snubber is directly below the front leaf spring eye...

I'll check it out. I do know that they are not rubber, but a hard white plastic disc- not sure if that was how they came.
 
Oh really? For your information I'm planning on using my brand new 2010 roll of duct tape to attach the scoop.

I actually want to do an accurate representation of what a late 60's early 70's muscle car would be- bought new and brought home where the first thing to go on is the Cragars and it goes from there. This would also be what I would do if I could have bought it new.

I like your concept, plus it won't break your bank account and you can enjoy the fruits of your labor everytime you take it out...
 
they sure worked on my Duster...and my wheel-alignment-guy said they were the only set he'd ever seen installed so that they would actually work.

Worked on my '68 Camaro too but I made sure I had a little space between the snubber and the spring.
 
The scoop has a flange on it, so I was thinking about welding a small square tube frame together, tacking it under the hood, and mounting the scoop from below. I already cut a small hole to get an idea of what it would look like, and with the 2 hood bulges still in the front it looks pretty cool, to me anyways.
Where the chrome inserts were I'm going to weld in pieces of metal. I will also level the scoop and leave the car at the current stance so the scoop will be lower at the rear.
The hood also has some rust issues, so I'll see if I can fix that too.

People tell me I should put a Hemi scoop on it, but it wasn't around in 67, and I think that has been done already.

What do you think?

Looks good but how does it effect visibility?
 
That's why I riveted it on and took a ride, to see what I would see, or not see.
You need to remember what is on your right before you take the right, and down the road its a little distracting, or is that me laughing at how ridiculous it is that is distracting?

Once I get the velocity stack I can see how high the scoop needs to be. I am hoping I can lower it quite a bit, and leveling it should give me a better view.
Hopefully I can find a nice balance between visibility and the old school scoop.
 
Since the base of the scoop is tapered, you will have a tough time lowering it unless you start from the bottom. Then you will be removing the flange that is used currently to mount it. I think that it will be a significant challenge, even for a fiberglas wizard to reshape this scoop.
 
Old school is cool. For sure try and lower the rear of the scoop, but i agree it will be a challenge. Didnt some of the old pro stock cars actually have the scoop attached to the carbs and stayed with the engine when you removed the hood? That would really cut up the hood and may not be doable with a steel hood, but something to think about.
 
Well here it is.
As you can tell I am not very good with a cut off, but I can clean it up later.
You can see some bent metal so the scoop would sit right that needs to be cut off, and I need to make more room on the driver's side.
I actually was able to mount it between the hood bracing and the skin- no rivits!
I'd still like to weld a few pieces of metal in where the inserts go.
I bought some square tubing to build a brace underneath and fix the latch area.
It sits lower now, and it is really not too bad driving.

The big question is can I take it to the drive-ins and see the movie?

The air cleaner is not in the center of the scoop, so I had to cut the inner hole on the scoop 'adjusting it' it to the passenger side.

Check out the rear window sticker.

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