Hey I'm new to the whole Mopar seen. I came from the GM side. I have a 68 Barracuda with a 318 auto. I thought I had a fuel issue, replaced pump, tank, carb, lines etc. same problem existed. So I repaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, resisters. The car will start and run if you hold the key in starter position , but as soon as you let off that, to just run and acceseries, it dies. I pulled the ign. switch and tested it, and it tested fine. Anyone else had this problem. The car will randomly start up for a few seconds every so often, and I drove it for 30 mins last week before all this started happening. Thought about looking at the neutral safety switch next. Someone please lead me in the right direction.
Please Help Me!!
- Thread starter D_NICK
- Start date
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dodgeboy
Well-Known Member
it may be a long shot but have u checked the ballast resistor it,s a small white porcelean box mounted on fire wall or drivers side fender usually fire wall it has i believe for 68 a single prong plug on either side of the mounting screw this is usually the last thing that anybody looks at but is usually the culprit u can use a jumper wire between the plug ins to test temporarily good luck.and welcome to fabo u will meat a lot of great and knowledgible people here
MOPAR MADMAN
Well-Known Member
common problem, replace the ballast resistor
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
the last car i had that would only run with the key held down was a 69 imperial. replaced the ignition switch and never had that problem again.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
norshorblufish
By the Big Water
ballast resistor. It would be a good idea to check out.
Bulldozer
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you replaced the ballast , correct?
Bulldozer
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it can. if it is not allowing voltage through the run side of the switch , but is through the start and not switching voltage. im no electrician, but i do know i had the same problem and a new switch fixed it.
i dont think the EI box would only allow for start power and not run voltage, but i cant say for sure
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Bulldozer
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just to rule out the popular bad ballast suggestion, put your old one back on or another new one and see if that makes a difference
4 votes ballast
1 vote ignition switch LOL
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
cool...and there you have it. the people have spoken and were correct!!! good stuff guys
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There's LOTS of room for error, here
YOU REPLACED the coil? What coil? What brand and specific model? If it's an Accel, it might just need a special resistor, some of them need the OEM resistor PLUS the Accel resistor
WHAT are you running for an electronic ignition? Mopar ECU? 2 or 4 wire resistor?
YOU MIGHT be losing voltage through the bulkhead connector
You have TWO separate circuits for the ignition
1---The DARK BLUE "run circuit"--- coming from the IGN switch is hot ONLY in run, comes out the bulkhead, and supplies the alternator field, the regulator, and the ignition system.
TO SEE if that is OK, turn the key to "run" engine OFF. Find the dark blue coming out of the bulkhead to the coil resistor and put your meter between that and battery POSITIVE. You will be measuring "voltage drop" in the harness, and are looking for a VERY LOW reading, NOT MORE than .2-.3V (two TENTHS of a volt)
2--The BROWN bypass circuit--To check the resistor (starting) bypass circuit, put your meter on battery positive, and the coil + terminal, and crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should read NO MORE than 1/2 volt
IF the above tests are OK you are getting good voltage for start and run.
Remove the distributor connector (just because) and work it in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean, and "feel" for a good tight fit. Now do the same with the ECU connector.
Also, check the voltage right at the battery while cranking. You need a MINIMUM of 10.5V If less, the battery is old, or discharged, not big enough, or the starter is dragging.
I'm going to REPEAT we need to know SPECIFICALLY what do you have for coil (brand, model) for ECU (Mopar, MSD, ??) and 2 or 4 wire coil resistor?
YOU REPLACED the coil? What coil? What brand and specific model? If it's an Accel, it might just need a special resistor, some of them need the OEM resistor PLUS the Accel resistor
WHAT are you running for an electronic ignition? Mopar ECU? 2 or 4 wire resistor?
YOU MIGHT be losing voltage through the bulkhead connector
You have TWO separate circuits for the ignition
1---The DARK BLUE "run circuit"--- coming from the IGN switch is hot ONLY in run, comes out the bulkhead, and supplies the alternator field, the regulator, and the ignition system.
TO SEE if that is OK, turn the key to "run" engine OFF. Find the dark blue coming out of the bulkhead to the coil resistor and put your meter between that and battery POSITIVE. You will be measuring "voltage drop" in the harness, and are looking for a VERY LOW reading, NOT MORE than .2-.3V (two TENTHS of a volt)
2--The BROWN bypass circuit--To check the resistor (starting) bypass circuit, put your meter on battery positive, and the coil + terminal, and crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should read NO MORE than 1/2 volt
IF the above tests are OK you are getting good voltage for start and run.
Remove the distributor connector (just because) and work it in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean, and "feel" for a good tight fit. Now do the same with the ECU connector.
Also, check the voltage right at the battery while cranking. You need a MINIMUM of 10.5V If less, the battery is old, or discharged, not big enough, or the starter is dragging.
I'm going to REPEAT we need to know SPECIFICALLY what do you have for coil (brand, model) for ECU (Mopar, MSD, ??) and 2 or 4 wire coil resistor?
I have a accel coil, and accel distrib. There is 2 resistors on the firewall, one by the dist and one by the fender. The fender one is the one that runs if bypassed and smokes when hooked up, it is a new factory resistor. The one I took off has the back filled and you can't see the resistor maybe accel?:banghead:
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