Never had a set I can't comment
Poll: Do traction bars help out Mopar leaf springs or not
- Thread starter Brooks James
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Of course they do. Better than a pinion snubber when used correctly, since you can tune each side independently.
remytherat
Well-Known Member
@318willrun has some ideas on this on youtube
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
We talkin old school Lakewood's or modern Caltrac style?
Never had on a Mopar. On a Chevy they worked somewhat.
But it's old technology. I've done very well with SS springs and a snuber for pinion support on a 10 sec 3000lb Duster.
I believe once your build gets into the 9s and faster where chassis certs and licensing becomes more apparent? Then a ladder or 4-link systems become more of a survival necessity.
JMO.
But it's old technology. I've done very well with SS springs and a snuber for pinion support on a 10 sec 3000lb Duster.
I believe once your build gets into the 9s and faster where chassis certs and licensing becomes more apparent? Then a ladder or 4-link systems become more of a survival necessity.
JMO.
If you understand what slapper bars do, and use them accordingly, then yes, they help immensely. Especially on a mild car that has an open rear end.
On wheel hop I agree. Which I'm sure springs are not happy when bouncing like that.
Lakewood
33IMP
Well-Known Member
My opinion only:
If you have a track pack/super track pack/ super stock spring package, you don't need em. They can help/work on lesser springs.
When I had an eleven second motor in front of 40 year old slant six springs, traction bars would have helped. I changed to ss springs instead.
And the only use I have for a pinion snubber is to keep my trashcan from flying away in the wind.
If you have a track pack/super track pack/ super stock spring package, you don't need em. They can help/work on lesser springs.
When I had an eleven second motor in front of 40 year old slant six springs, traction bars would have helped. I changed to ss springs instead.
And the only use I have for a pinion snubber is to keep my trashcan from flying away in the wind.
I will also say that today there are better options that are more "tunable" and mount with more sophistication, but it will cost you a bunch more as well.
Lol
I doing period correct speed parts on my Dart, saw a bunch of cars in the 70's with bars
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
It depends on how much power you have and do have slicks on the strip. I’ve gotten wheel hop at the strip with slicks so I fabricated a set using the lower shock mount plate going forward to the spring eye. A mild 440, 500hp? in a 67 Abody running 1.40 sixty foot times.
It makes a difference if you’re starting with a /6 318 or 340 383 car and how old they are which springs you have so there’s no one answer.
It makes a difference if you’re starting with a /6 318 or 340 383 car and how old they are which springs you have so there’s no one answer.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Ok, i voted no at about 90%. Only Mopar ''car'' i have ever seen with a ''wheel hop'' issue had wore out springs/shocks and 3 or 4'' shackles. I could see someone going for a vintage look using them and maybe some uses for a truck. I had a 5spd Ram that sure could have used some help...lol.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Air shocks and classic Lakewood traction bars, cragars, thats where its at...
Yes sir , CRAGAR original SS 15x7 small bolt patterns from Summit for me in a few months.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Slapper bars and air shocks (with a separate air line for EACH shock!) can definitely work. And like 318wr says, can really help with an open rear.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
New 230 lb springs, 3.91 gears, spool, 1" inboard hangers, stock length shackles, stock ride height, New bushings (tried poly and rubber, kept the poly), new Viking shocks, fair tires (cooper 265x50x15) and I had wheel hop like a mother from the day I installed my stroker and 4spd. Would shake the glove box open and send dash knobs flying. Enough throttle in any of the first 3 gears would bring it on.
Tried a bunch of stuff (snubber, u bolt torque, pinion angle) while believing "Mopars don't need traction bars" and nothing helped.
Installed a set of Assassin bars (cost halfway between caltracs and slappers, though slappers aren't $50 anymore either!) and the car has never been scarier. No wheel hop and when it hooks its like being shot from a gun. Even better, it goes straight. They rattle a bit over speed bumps (the headers are worse) and if preloaded will make it ride like a truck. I run about a half inch of clearance at the rocker with weight on the wheels. I only wish I had installed them 5 years earlier. Disclaimer: never have run it down a track, probably won't.
Tried a bunch of stuff (snubber, u bolt torque, pinion angle) while believing "Mopars don't need traction bars" and nothing helped.
Installed a set of Assassin bars (cost halfway between caltracs and slappers, though slappers aren't $50 anymore either!) and the car has never been scarier. No wheel hop and when it hooks its like being shot from a gun. Even better, it goes straight. They rattle a bit over speed bumps (the headers are worse) and if preloaded will make it ride like a truck. I run about a half inch of clearance at the rocker with weight on the wheels. I only wish I had installed them 5 years earlier. Disclaimer: never have run it down a track, probably won't.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
"slappers aren't $50 anymore either".
Well, lakewoods aren't. The summit bars that look exactly like the ones I used on my 4sp 57 chevy for 40 years now......are $57 (in my two year old paper catalog. Don't know how much they are now....)
Edit: just checked on line, they're $67 now, just about the lowest amount of bidumbflation I've seen!
Well, lakewoods aren't. The summit bars that look exactly like the ones I used on my 4sp 57 chevy for 40 years now......are $57 (in my two year old paper catalog. Don't know how much they are now....)
Edit: just checked on line, they're $67 now, just about the lowest amount of bidumbflation I've seen!
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Phreakish
Well-Known Member
That's good, when I happened to be looking nothing was in stock or was $150+.
I paid well under $300 for my Assassin bars at the time and they were in stock (just looked at the price now, $395, ouch) . If I could have gotten slappers for under $100 I would have gone that route! $57 vs $400 is a no brainer IMO.
Caltracs work, I have assassin bars but on my car they havent been tested yet.
slapper bars on 2 cars I had, I would say they were for looks lol not for function.
Charger and dart did better without slappy
Yeah rams and especially my Dakota r/t that gets a violent hop
Are you going for a certain look?
Like period correct day 2 parts ?
If I was in charge of your build which I'm not lol I would as I am doing a period correct look but using the well developed parts to make it move.
If you put caltracs on you would be adding functionality, that's a good thing. Just like carburetor, you can build some old carb but compared to a newer design you'll get better functionality. It would be a shame to go through all the trouble of building a car and then end up not liking it. That's just my opinion.
The other thing like wheels, those can get a pass since there are lighter wheels, there's almost 90 pounds difference in some wheels vs forged or billet......BUT, your car will look good with the cragars. Anyways just throwing out this, trying to be semi helpful.
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