Poly Locs or Similar

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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Is Schumacher the only company to make or sell a poly loc type mount? I dont like the fact that the rubber biscuit mounts have so much movement in them.

Also curious if anyone has gotten them cheaper than the advertised price on there site and if so how much cheaper. Thanks
 
Their the only ones styled like it that I've seen. Have them on my car and yes they do move some but even the torque of my 408 doesn't move them a bunch. With the Eddy Air-gap intake and 1" carb spacer it only has about 3/8~1/2" air cleaner to hood clearance and my air cleaner never hits the hood so they don't move as much as a stock biscuit. Only thing I'd know that's better is a solid mount.
 
fishy68 said:
Their the only ones styled like it that I've seen. Have them on my car and yes they do move some but even the torque of my 408 doesn't move them a bunch. With the Eddy Air-gap intake and 1" carb spacer it only has about 3/8~1/2" air cleaner to hood clearance and my air cleaner never hits the hood so they don't move as much as a stock biscuit. Only thing I'd know that's better is a solid mount.
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* Do you use a stock Air Cleaner?
 
straightlinespeed said:
Is Schumacher the only company to make or sell a poly loc type mount? I dont like the fact that the rubber biscuit mounts have so much movement in them.
Click to expand...

Just pull your driver side mount, drill a hole through it and run a bolt through with a lock nut on the other end and just snug it. Don't over tighten it.

You could also add a torque strap.
 
Bad Sport said:
Just pull your driver side mount, drill a hole through it and run a bolt through with a lock nut on the other end and just snug it. Don't over tighten it.

You could also add a torque strap.
Click to expand...

That is a interesting idea. I suppose it essentially is the exact same thing. But you wouldnt want to do the passengers side either?

I am picking up a torque strap but figure I should fix the mount issue first before I install that.
 
I ran Schumacher poly loc mounts on my Cuda , they are very harsh feeling and definately not street friendly , I would look at other options before you buy them
 
Bad Sport said:
Just pull your driver side mount, drill a hole through it and run a bolt through with a lock nut on the other end and just snug it. Don't over tighten it.

You could also add a torque strap.
Click to expand...

EXACTLY what I did to my driver's side rustang II mount. The rubber insulator came "unglued" from the top plate. These mounts have a pin all the way through the mount from the factory with a bushing on one side. The bushing went bad and allowed just enough movement for the top plate to tear loose from the rubber insulator. The insulator was still in fine shape. These mounts are very hard to come by. No one makes them new. They are the only factory mount that will work with V8 Pinto and Bobcat swaps. So, I cut the end off the factory pin and drove it out. Then replaced it with a carriage bolt, a sway bar link bushing and a locknut. Obviously, it's the mount on the right. This can be done with pretty much any biscuit style mount.
 

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straightlinespeed said:
That is a interesting idea. I suppose it essentially is the exact same thing. But you wouldnt want to do the passengers side either?

I am picking up a torque strap but figure I should fix the mount issue first before I install that.
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I wouldn't thing so, the only time it sees torque is when in reverse.
 
mopar jimmie said:
I ran Schumacher poly loc mounts on my Cuda , they are very harsh feeling and definately not street friendly , I would look at other options before you buy them
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No kidding! As I mentioned that's what I have on my Cuda and I had stock rubber biscuits on before and I can barely tell any difference in the feel. What your describing sounds like solid mounts
 
I've never broken a mount since using a $3.00 piece of chain as a torque strap..

Chain the drivers head down to the K'frame..give it about 1/4 - 1/2" of slack,, so it doesn't transmit vibration to the frame at idle, and wrap it in electical tape, so it does't rattle..

That's all we used on our hemis and anything else,, "back in the day" till now..

But I like the bolt thru the mount idea, and will check it out..

hope it helps
 
RustyRatRod said:
EXACTLY what I did to my driver's side rustang II mount. The rubber insulator came "unglued" from the top plate. These mounts have a pin all the way through the mount from the factory with a bushing on one side. The bushing wend bad and allowed just enough movement for the top plate to tear loose from the rubber insulator. The insulator was still in fine shape. These mounts are very hard to come by. No one makes them new. They are the only factory mount that will work with V8 Pinto and Bobcat swaps. So, I cut the end off the factory pin and drove it out. Then replaced it with a carriage bolt, a sway bar link bushing and a locknut. Obviously, it's the mount on the right. This can be done with pretty much any biscuit style mount.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your pic and nice work setting that up!

Bad Sport said:
I wouldn't thing so, the only time it sees torque is when in reverse.
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Well you never know when you may have to get out quick, backwards! I may want to do one of those stylish reverse 180's someday! LOL

You mentioned just drilling it out and snugging the bolt. Would this be done in only the biscuit itself or thru the metal piece of the main mount also? Looking at that pic from Mancini it looks like both situations.
 
straightlinespeed said:
You mentioned just drilling it out and snugging the bolt. Would this be done in only the biscuit itself or thru the metal piece of the main mount also? Looking at that pic from Mancini it looks like both situations.
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The pic on Mancini's that shows it going through the metal is a B/E body mount.
 
Lelo Dart said:
Since the mount sits flat, how would you install the bolt / nut?
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The best and easiest way would be to install the mount in the car without the engine and drill completely through the mount and frame bracket and run the bolt through the whole assembly once the engine is in place.
 
Bad Sport said:
Just pull your driver side mount, drill a hole through it and run a bolt through with a lock nut on the other end and just snug it. Don't over tighten it.

You could also add a torque strap.
Click to expand...
Is what Rusty is suggesting what you are talking about?
 
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