Thank you!
Por-15 on roof
- Thread starter rburger
- Start date
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ir3333
Well-Known Member
Sylvesters customs have some good videos on sticking with this product start to finish. I've been
using a 1.7 tip, 26 psi. and use an additional 10% reducer.It sprays nice, goes on thick, is tough and
dries lo gloss allowing you to see how straight your body work is.
This is my first body and paint job so I'm no authority.
using a 1.7 tip, 26 psi. and use an additional 10% reducer.It sprays nice, goes on thick, is tough and
dries lo gloss allowing you to see how straight your body work is.
This is my first body and paint job so I'm no authority.
And the product is?????
ir3333
Well-Known Member
They use PPG VP 2050 but it is the same as CRE X21.You can see the finish it will provide you with.
As i said it sands nicely but not as easy as the soft polyesters.
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As i said it sands nicely but not as easy as the soft polyesters.
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340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I been using PPG Delfleet over bare metal as a base on last few cars I have done. I like the way it sprays lays out and does not need to be reduced in order to get it to lay flat and smooth.
Good video. I do not like the linear blocks. They are not flat. They have a crown where the circles meet the base.
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Never tried the Delfleet but I can tell you that CRE is not going to spray without being reduced. The activator is literally thick as honey and even looks like honey. Hmmm, must be honey. Im going to taste it tomorrow.
Might want to smell it first. lol
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Delfleet activator is honey too but paint is like water so its not thick once the two parts are mixed up
Yeah but how's it taste?
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Like candy
ir3333
Well-Known Member
as for blocks i bought a 36" Dura block and cut a 20", 12" and 4" on my bandsaw.
And cut the ends at the correct angle too lol.
apparently the linear blocks will "pinch" your fingers. I have made a few odd shaped
blocks from ordinary items like paper towel cores or whatever.
And cut the ends at the correct angle too lol.
apparently the linear blocks will "pinch" your fingers. I have made a few odd shaped
blocks from ordinary items like paper towel cores or whatever.
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Those linear blocks cost too much for me to try out. If they were cheaper I would give them a try. But yeah, you can make a block out of almost anything. I have an old one made out of wood that is my favorite for doing small things.
6ft5guy
Member
POR-15 sux.
What you want is OSPHO, It is a water thin, acid based rust KILLER!
It stops the corrosion process, which is the root cause of your problem.
Any paint applied over any rust, merely hides the problem and allows the corrosion process to continue.
Here is the science behind how OSPHO works.
- Corrosion on steel is iron oxide.
- OSPHO has a percentage of Phosphoric Acid in it.
- when Phosphoric Acid comes into contact with iron oxide it changes on a molecular scale to iron phosphate.
THEN you sand if desired & paint.
Do not go thin on your paint.
If you don't know what a mil gauge is look it up and get one.
Anyone who shoots any paint over any rust is merely sending the problem down the road to be dealt with later. The oxidation process MUST be stopped, without doing so you're just masking the problem. It may look good for a while but that oxidation is still alive under the paint.
Ace Hardware $30
Happy motoring to all.
What you want is OSPHO, It is a water thin, acid based rust KILLER!
It stops the corrosion process, which is the root cause of your problem.
Any paint applied over any rust, merely hides the problem and allows the corrosion process to continue.
Here is the science behind how OSPHO works.
- Corrosion on steel is iron oxide.
- OSPHO has a percentage of Phosphoric Acid in it.
- when Phosphoric Acid comes into contact with iron oxide it changes on a molecular scale to iron phosphate.
THEN you sand if desired & paint.
Do not go thin on your paint.
If you don't know what a mil gauge is look it up and get one.
Anyone who shoots any paint over any rust is merely sending the problem down the road to be dealt with later. The oxidation process MUST be stopped, without doing so you're just masking the problem. It may look good for a while but that oxidation is still alive under the paint.
Ace Hardware $30
Happy motoring to all.
MILO
Well-Known Member
POR 15 will fade bad in the sun and get a dull whiteish look
Second vote for Ospho. I have been using it for 20 years. I saw them using it on a tugboat and asked about it. They gave me a 5 gallon bucket of it and I have been hooked since. There are MANY similar products with phosphoric acid and they all work but I havent found anything that works as well as ospho.
The biggest tip I can give you with using ospho is to keep it wet while its working and then wipe it completely off before it drys. If not you will get a white coating that needs to be removed. I still reccomend a good scuff prior to prime but its much easier if you wipe it clean before it drys.
The biggest tip I can give you with using ospho is to keep it wet while its working and then wipe it completely off before it drys. If not you will get a white coating that needs to be removed. I still reccomend a good scuff prior to prime but its much easier if you wipe it clean before it drys.
ESP47
Well-Known Member
Whatever option you choose, just don't attempt to encapsulate the tiny rust pits on your roof with any type of paint product. Use whatever type of gel/liquid rust remover to ensure you have clean metal and then epoxy over that. Too much time, work and money is involved with a vinyl top car to skip a step and roll the dice on seeing bubbling under the vinyl after a year or two. Especially when the options to fully remove the rust are dirt cheap and don't take a ton of time.
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