Porting a slant six head

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67 Power Wagon said:
I'm not planning on getting stupid with those I have planned to do either, just smooth out the ports and maybe a bit of polishing and all as the guy just what them cleaned up a bit, I'm not even adding in larger valves, just going to re-fit new factory size valve to the head so.....I ought to have the heads, in at some point this week, near the end of it actually so....
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I have yet to hear of a reason to polish other than to make them look pretty.
 
Dropped that head off tonight and they told me it would be a couple of weeks before they could get to it. At this point I am having them install the hardened valve seats and open up the all the seats to accept the larger valves.
 
You need to open your jegs catalog and buy some chevy parts!cause that's what the hell we use to make these slants run.dam right chevy valves are used in a slant head.and I'm even running chevy Aries pistons on a 7.100 bill miller rod.the late slants are not casted as strong using much less nickel head prone to cracking tru the exhaust seats.keep what you got if you want,sounds like your ready to fix what you got instead of going out and finding a better slant to start putting your money in.wouldnt be surprised if the machine shop calls and tells you you got a anchor that needs all new valves( cause the margine is beat off them ) of course all new hardened seats and new valve guides or you could just knerl them.oh wait - the next head you find needs it done,cause this emission pump head is cracked!:wack:
 
Johnny Dart said:
So what are you trying to acomplish with this head/motor ?
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Not sure who you are asking the question too but if it is me than the answer is efficiency. I would like to see how well I can make this little slant push a 6000 pound truck down the road.

Maybe first and foremost though would be ( now that I think more about your question ) the opportunity to learn something new. I am quite pleased with how far I have come in the past year or so. I have and am thoroughly enjoying myself.
 
Efficiency. ?.....Interesting.
My advice. Save your money, and bolt it back together. They are already efficent.
Hate to see you waste a bunch of money for little or no return.
Especially in a 6000 pound truck.
 
Hey guys, machine shop called this evening, evidently they need to also replace the exhaust valve guides. I remember reading about two different types ( material composition ) but cannot remember the preferred.

Can someone remind me. Longevity is what I am after, not trying to save a few bucks just to buy time. Thanks
 
Silicon bronze is the best material, although cast iron will last a LONG time. Just skip the thin wall bronze liner crap.
 
Ok, thanks, bronze was the alternative but from what I have read their are alot of mixed opinions especially if running stainless valves.
 
1986 W-100 It is a full size 4 wheel drive truck, original drivetrain
 
I picked up my head this afternoon and was a little surprised after getting home to see that so much had been removed from the area just below the valve seats. The intake side being most pronounced cause there is quite a bit of material there on the inside ( yellow arrow ) of the head that Im assuming I am going to smooth/blend out into the bowl area?

Is this normal? Maybe they did me a favor and now I have less work to do?

This shop is one of the best around and I am sure they know what they are doing but I still need to ask.

http://s675.photobucket.com/user/jhason2/media/Picture615_zps035ac34c.jpg.html

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Looks like they did a nice deep 60 degree bowl cut. Now you need to "blend" the bowls, and narrow the guide bosses. You want a pretty smooth surface on the walls, and a nice smooth radius on the short side. A flame tip carbide burr followed by 80 grit tootsie rolls should do the trick. The long style burrs work the best. Put a couple layers of heat shrink tube on the shaft of the burr so you don't nick the valve seats.
 
Thanks but what does this mean.....and a nice smooth radius on the short side.

Also doing a google search of tootsie roll leads me to think that drum sanders are not the same so what is a tootsie roll? Do you have a part number or reference number?

Continuing to look for answers it looks like there is a short mandrel and a long and a tootsie roll is a sanding drum? Confirmation of this would be nice as well as a source for maybe all that needed in some sort of a kit.

They left the seats un-finished as per my request so I would not have to worry too much about nicking things. I will still however be careful.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-466329.html
 
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