porting cost?

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Question number 1. The price of a bit for my die grinder.
#2, depends on the shop and actuall work done.


Ask around your area for expert shops and price them out as well as ask on line here for porters close to you. Sending them out is not as bad as some home town shop charges.
 
And a flow bench and a valve grinding machine or serdi and about 20-30 years of experience. At this point people miss the value of ported heads and don't give the money for what the person does and knows,then they think that they could have done better. Now I'm not saying that you shouldn't try but don't complain about what it takes to do the job. As this is what you pay for plus the knowledge that they have over the years in doing this job.
 
Mopar performance sells porting templates for some heads . Get the Mopar speed secrets book if youre not sure where to start. Do some reasearch before you start or you can hurt rather than help flow . Bigger is not neccessarily better.
 
ya true.
but i mean i dont mind paying for work just dont see why prices are high i mean for people who can barely afford things
 
OK, OK Maybe I'm a bit harsh, but I get tired of people that want to beat down the price of the work when they have never done this them selves, this is part of the reason that the price is this high, and that the tooling cost is going up let alone the amount of time that it takes to do the job. IMO this is one of the best things that a engine can have done and make HP when done right.
I'm not here to slam anyone but it just jerks my chain when anybody tries to cheap'n the process that has to happen. Most people don't realize that it takes 25-40 hrs. with a flow bench to achieve a head that will perform and satisify the customer to there needs and every head is and has to be built to a specific engine to avchieve the HP.
 
yup but some cant afford the high quality. thats why im tying to find someone to do my heads
 
Then this is what you need to do, have the shop that is going to do your heads bowl cut them with a 75R7 serdi cutter or a 75*taper cutter and do a good valve job, also have them surface them to clean them up and if more than .025 then they will also have to surface the intake side as the intake won't fit. Then have them gasket match them and your done and should have a good set of heads. Oh another thing to check is the retainer to guide clearence, as with high lift cams you need .100 seal to retainer clearence and this might mean cutting the guide and this will be and additional cost, but this is just part of the game.
 
would the 1.88 valves be best? or 2.02? and if the intake is 1.60 are the 68-69 340 exhaust valves the best or what should i do for valves?
 
360 street/strip mostly stip looking for 400hp or a lil more i have a 8 1/4 so not a lot of power
 
Porting sucks-the only reason I learned was I was in the same boat as you and couldnt afford to have someone do it,but I knew it was the only way to big power.So with the help of a lot of people and alot of careful cutting I managed a very nice flowing set of heads-it took about 50 hr.s the first time.Ive done a few sets since and Im more efficient but theres a reason porting is expensive and I tell my machinist all the time I wouldnt want to have to do it everyday-even getting paid.
 
In my opinion if you really dont have much money then work with the stock valves and spend a little on the bowls/shorturn and you should have a real nice set.Most shops with a good serdi type machine wont charge a whole lot more to do a bowl blend and light short turn work isnt usually too expensive.
 
anyone want a holly 650 double pumper or weiand intake will trade for porting work

This is exactly what BJR was saying about cheaping the work load and value of the porter working on the heads. These parts are cheap at the meets. Seel these parts and roll it over into the bank roll savings for the porting work.

DusterBoy15 said:
should i get some heads to practice on?
Yes. You should. I have several sets of heads to start practicing on. I also have 3 sets of heads waiting on a bank roll to have done. These are the heads I value over the junk heads and want for later builds.
(Notice how I will try my hand on some junk but will have a pro do work on what I want to keep and run.)

The above mentioned MP porting templates are for certain heads only. If you can find a set of 308 heads, theres templates for them. The only small block stock head that has templates. Then theres the W family theres porting templates for.

For a mild street engine, the above advice is good and you can gasket match the heads exhaust ports. The gain is small, but small steps is where you start.
 
Duster, If you are looking for 400 horsepower, you dont need porting. You need a quality valve job like BJR mentioned. That's also a part of the cost of the machinist work. The knowledge of what it takes to get what you need. A 400 hp 360 is a good rebuild, headers, and intake and carb, and a camshaft. no porting, no solid, or solid roller, or "3/4 race" cams, or anything else you read in the magazines. Just basic good machinjing on modern equipment. The fastest wasy to being disappointed is to say "where's the cheapest..." It takees what it takes for money. If you had a good core 360, I cant se it costing more than $4500 to get a 400 hp 360 on pump gas... And none of that is for porting. If you dont have that money, adjust your plan. Dont look for the cheapest. Or you're peeing money away. I've had several bone yard 360s that ran way into the 12s even in heavier E bodies with bolt ons and a cam. So if you cant pay for a rebuild, buy some good parts, have the heads redone for performance, and run that. I bet you could be done with a bit less than half that $4500 with ease, if your engine has good oil pressure and doesnt smoke now.
 
It all depends. Parts costs are only about 50% of a build like you mention you need. So having gaskets, a timing chain, and an intake and carb, mean very little. You dont have (I'm guessing, tell me if I'm wrong...) you dont have pistons, rings, bearings, core plugs and pipe plugs, the dist bushing, the dist drive, valve springs, water pump, oil pump, pickup screen, the cam, or lifters. Those are what the machinist will need to rebuild it. That's where the costs are. I'd prefer to have a well machined stock short, and stock intake and carb, than a POS shortblock, and a nice carb and intake I'll go faster on "good stock".
 
well the motor is pre rebuilt with forged pistons all i need to do is replace the gaskets water pump fuel pump unless mine from the 318 is goo,core plugs and pipe plugs, the dist bushing, the dist drive, valve springs, water pump, oil pump, pickup screen, the cam, or lifters
but the cam and so on would only be new but besides that this motor has everything done i jsut need to clean it up and make sure it doesnt need any machine work
 
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