power source for choke

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mopar head

mopar head

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and other acessorys, 67 notch.
I`ve been searching the forum and getting conflicting suggestions from the threads.
Two of the options are voltage regulator and ballast.
Which is best? or any other options? I don`t want to rob absolutly no power from ignition circut if possible?
I also need to power a radio and tach, I have 1 open space in fuse block but their is no clips for the fuse, are these clips available and where?
And where would be the best place to junction to power this new circut?
Thanks
 
The two are the same. There is only ONE switched 12V ignition feed coming from the key through the firewall, and that is the traditional "dark blue" "ign1" feed from the ignition switch. On 70/ later models, it feeds the ballast, the regulator, the field for the alternator, electric choke if used, and I think idle solenoid/ distributor solenoid if used.

The PROBLEM with that whole circuit is that it's subject to deterioration of the ignition switch and it's connector, the bulkhead connector, AND it is NOT fused!!!!!
 
67Dart273 said:
The two are the same. There is only ONE switched 12V ignition feed coming from the key through the firewall, and that is the traditional "dark blue" "ign1" feed from the ignition switch. On 70/ later models, it feeds the ballast, the regulator, the field for the alternator, electric choke if used, and I think idle solenoid/ distributor solenoid if used.

The PROBLEM with that whole circuit is that it's subject to deterioration of the ignition switch and it's connector, the bulkhead connector, AND it is NOT fused!!!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks sir. So what are my options, to not rob power from ignition circut? Maybe run a ? gauge wire from solinoid post with a 20? amp buss fuse to a toggle switch? or?
 
Add a relay, and a couple of fuses.

Pull the power for the relay from the start solenoid, through a 30 amp fuse. Put all of the loads on that relay, with fuses as needed. Voltage regulator, choke, ignition, etc.

Switch the relay coil on with the old ignition circuit. This way none of the loads go through a 40 year old ignition switch, and the voltage regulator, ignition & choke all get a full 12v.

B.
 
bohica2xo said:
Add a relay, and a couple of fuses.

Pull the power for the relay from the start solenoid, through a 30 amp fuse. Put all of the loads on that relay, with fuses as needed. Voltage regulator, choke, ignition, etc.

Switch the relay coil on with the old ignition circuit. This way none of the loads go through a 40 year old ignition switch, and the voltage regulator, ignition & choke all get a full 12v.

B.
Click to expand...
thanks, Where would one splice, "I assume" on the old ignition circut? and this would not rob ignition power? just a little confused here.
 
A so called "standard" single pole single throw "Bosch" relay

080_800.jpg


The coil is nos 85, and 86

The contacts are no 30, and 87

So ground either 85 or 86

cut your dark blue coming out of the bulkhead before it spits off to the ballast and regulator

Run the dark blue that you cut coming out of the bulkhead to the one you did NOT ground, I.E. ground 85, dark blue to 86

Now run a fused say, 20A good quality fuse holder, or automatic reset breaker, from the start relay "big stud" to no 30

Now run no 87 to the OTHER end of the "dark blue" that you cut, which feeds off to the regulator and ignition. Also from this no 87, run over to your choke.

Mount the relay AND FUSE (or breaker) away from weather and engine heat. Probably the best place is over on the firewall/ fender near the ballast.
 
i use the field wire off the alternator....about 7 yrs now...
 
Thanks fellas, can you tell if I have the later alt. from this pic?
I believe it has 2 fields and as you can see one is grounded.
So this field produces 12v? and can be used for a choke huh, 70aar?
Sure would be the easy way out.
 

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That IS a later alternator, but that terminal does you no good.

On 69/ earlier alternators, the field is fed juice FROM the regulator, to ground through the field

On 70/ later alternators, the fied is fed juice from the ignition bus, and the regulator controls the ground on the second field.
 
67Dart273 said:
That IS a later alternator, but that terminal does you no good.

On 69/ earlier alternators, the field is fed juice FROM the regulator, to ground through the field

On 70/ later alternators, the fied is fed juice from the ignition bus, and the regulator controls the ground on the second field.
Click to expand...
I was hopeing you would find this thread. Mr, I commend you, I`ve noticed you helping on a lot, if not all, electrical/ignition, problem threads. And their`s a whole bunch of em.
I`m going to get the relay as posted.
My original problem was a intermittant no start problem, would happen maybe once/twice a year, now it`s more frequent. But thanks to this forum and other problem posts, I realised, I Fff up big time a decade ago, powering my choke/tac/radio off ignition on back of switch. Couple days ago I disconnected all these wires, and she been barking to life every time now, 'knock on wood", thus the new fear of robbing any power off ignition circut. I always felt it had weak spark, and the MP conversion instructions, states strongly it MUST have a full 12v. Hopefully once all this is done I can relax and not worry about if I turn the key off it will start and get me home :prayer:
Thanks:!:
 
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