Prime & Paint underside questions

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RogerRamRod

RogerRamRod

The Older I Get, The Faster I Was
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Thanks Again for some of the previous answers FABO members have given me in the past. I'm working on a 68 Dart. The underside of the car is a mix of rusty, but solid framerails, good floorpans with factory primer/coating, AMD trunk pan with black EDP coating, & bare metal US CarTool sub frame connectors.
Do I prime the bare metal with Etching Primer, then POR15 to seal them before painting, then use regular primer over the factory coating, & the AMD parts, then put POR 15 over that and the rusty parts?
POR 15 the whole shebang, including the bare metal, then cover that with Epoxy primer then paint?
What is Lizard Skin that I have heard of, & where does that fit into all those other options?
How about recommendations for primers, sealers, etching primer, epoxy primer, etc.
Thanks,
:burnout:
Get a grip & let it rip
 
What is your ultimate goal/plan for the car? Correct resto, bullet proof underside, best bang for the buck, or what?
C
 
POR 15 is designed to go over rusty metal, you really don't want to prime it.
 
A driver to go to local car shows, cruise nights, etc. A day spent at the track wouldn't be out of the question. A three season car that might get caught in a rainstorm. A car for me to enjoy, not worried about resale dollars, no numbers match on it anyway.
 
Roger Ram Rod said:
A driver to go to local car shows, cruise nights, etc. A day spent at the track wouldn't be out of the question. A three season car that might get caught in a rainstorm. A car for me to enjoy, not worried about resale dollars, no numbers match on it anyway.
Click to expand...

I would just use the por15 and forget everything else. You don't need primer with por15 and unless you really want that factory color on the bottom there's no point in painting over the por15. Personally on my car i just used gloss black rustoleum brushed on.
 
POR 15 won't stick well to nice clean metal surfaces. It likes rusty or rough. I can't hardly remove it most of the time but where my floor pans were replaced, if I accidental scratched it, I could start peeling it off like sunburned skin. Just make sure the loose rust is gone and it will stay a long time.
 
Hi,

My first choice would be epoxy primer on any clean, bare metal. The EDP you have on replacement panels is a real crap shoot depending on the conditions it was applied under. Almost all the reproduction panels are coming out of China and the EDP ranges from good to applied over rust, grease and dirt. Striping it off and applying a good epoxy primer is always a safe move.

For the other areas , I like the idea of media blasting sections at a time and putting it in epoxy primer. Epoxy primer covered with a urethane based truck bed liner material as an undercoating is a very good system.

Some people get good results with POR 15 others don't. I'll leave it to people who have experience with it to add they're opinions.

Etching primers are used where speed of the repair is a factor, epoxy primers are better for restoration projects. Epoxy primers are the only primers that are truly water proof. All the major paint suppliers like PPG make decent epoxy primers. Southern Polyurethane Inc. (SPI) makes a very good epoxy primer for a little less money than the majors and the tech. support is excellent. SPI is what I use.
 
for a fair weather 3 season car regular primer and a stock style overspray will be fine
 
Thank you for the replies so far, as always helpful and useful information
 
That is a good way to describe my car also. What I used was Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint. I applied two coats with a brush. I used black and some gray. I also used it on the rear axle. I've used this paint before and it is tough as nails. It can be applied to rust, but I sandblasted any rust off before using it.
C
 

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I used rustoleum rust reformer on the bare metal then go over that with rustoleum stop rust paint.The good thing is you do not have to sand the rust reformer before you spray on the stop rust paint.It says rust reformer and stop rust paint right on the cans.You can also go over that with rustoleum undercoating.It all lays down smooth and looks good and its cheap.I wish i had listenened to a guy i know that has built cars for years and told me about it before i spent all that money on eastwood stuff
 
I did a resto/mod on a 72 Vette. I used both the POR15 to seal it then used the lizard skin to keep the heat of the floor boards. The lizard skin has 2 different types of spray that I am familiar with. One is for heat and a second one is for sound deadening. I wasnt worried about the sound so I just did the one for heat. Yes it does work very well! One thing about it is that you need a special gun to apply it. If you choose to go with it let me know as I bought one and it just sits here and collects dust.
Rod
 
clhyer said:
That is a good way to describe my car also. What I used was Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint. I applied two coats with a brush. I used black and some gray. I also used it on the rear axle. I've used this paint before and it is tough as nails. It can be applied to rust, but I sandblasted any rust off before using it.
C
Click to expand...

I've got to ask, you went to all that work; just to blast Rustoleum over it? :mindblown:

IMHO would have just left it alone.
 
Well, I would Leave the undercoat on and patch it. Stripping it all off and painting it so it get's all chipped and dirty is ridiculous to me. But I drive my car so that plays into the mix as well. If you trailer it to a trade-show floor and bring your mirrors that's a different story.
 
Rustoleum hammer finish is some damn good stuff. I have used it on several occasions.
I rattle canned an oil pan with 2-3 coats of it. When I went to blast it clean several years later to re use it on the next motor it was a ***** to blast off. Ended up using stripper to get it clean.
 
I've got to ask, you went to all that work; just to blast Rustoleum over it? :mindblown:

IMHO would have just left it alone.

Well, that's just my anal self! I had it on a rotisserie, so access to the bottom and application by brush was very easy. And, she's not a trailer queen. One of these days I will post up last year's trip I took with it; 32 days and i think it rained about 26 of those days!
I looked over your build thread. Nice work for sure. I just took mine that last step...
C
 
my mindset is to clean my metal and apply whatever it takes to keep it good another 40-50 years. the show car-mirror crowd has one mindset and the driver type guy another, and all thats great!!! I have used just oil based equipment enamel on floors, under car, etc with really good results. I have no rotisserie, just my flat back!

clean metal as good as possible. I like to treat bare metal with Ospho, but be careful . let it dry thorouly, and test whatever you put there, I have seen some things wrinkle, but still stuck like glue. I like epoxy or a cheap route on floors, oil bas equip enamel ( would be a lot like Rusteolum??????)

I suggest just be careful using a product like Rusteolum and them coming back over it with an auto type product. just as mixing auto paint brands can sometimes bit you on the a--.

years back, and still available is a undercoating type product called "body Schultz", IMO a great product.

I just wish I could get off my butt and build a rotisserie! LOL
 
Roger we make our own product for floorboards trunks and under body that has performed well in Michigan for us. We use Rustoleum Rusty metal primer. This stuff will stick to any metal surface as long as there is no loose rust or other material. If you want to make it insulate like "Lizard Skin" you can add the microscopic glass spheres to the Rustoleum primer. Mix it thick enough to brush on two coats allowing it to dry between coats. The spheres are available from several places. We use Hy-Tech Sales.com. We use an airless sprayer but a brush works. We undercoat the bottoms with 3M and use sound deadner on the floor pans over the glass spheres and primer. Seems to hold up well here in the Winter Water Wonderland. Dan
 
Thank You for all the replies. Gave me a few ideas and things to think about.
 
I had the bottom of mine blasted. Etch primed it and then followed up with a coat gloss black urethane paint. I've only done up to underneath the rear seats at this time, as I have to pull the rear end and replace the spare tire well. Have to repair the front section of the passenger side floor pan yet too. Once I get all this patched up, I will etch prime the bare metal and put a couple more coats of polyurethane black on it. I'm not much of a painter, but I can say it came out pretty darn nice!
 
Someone mentioned in another thread Eastwood extreme chassis black was pretty good. However it was mentioned that it is rebranded and should be available at local paint stores for much cheaper. I dont know what it's called though. Maybe someone can chime in...
 
Rust Bullet. It is not the cheapest. But, I have seen it on some cars and seen it applied.
Like I said, it ain't the cheapest. But it will be going on the bottom of my car. It lays nice, and looks real well.
Just my 2 cents.
 
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