Pro Flo 4 Timing

Electrical and Ignition

  1. Ivan Baez

    Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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    has anyone experienced a stuck IAC valve on their proflo 4 so far?. Mine seems to have stoppped working this week. All the setting sare okay, but the idle is too low even on statup, and the RPMS stay up after acceleration. Will check it this wekend, but ondered if anyone has experenced the same.
     
  2. TurboGLH

    TurboGLH Well-Known Member

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    The IAC motor is disabled when the ECU is not in idle mode. That's determined by TPS position, 0-1% is idle, 2% or more and no IAC motor.

    It's more likely it's a bad TPS sensor, I had issues with the one that was in the kit and had to replace it.
     
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    • BergmanAutoCraft

      BergmanAutoCraft FABO Vendor FABO Vendor

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      I replaced mine too. The Edelbrock tech told me to buy one from Standard. Their customer service is wrong on so many levels.
       
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      • Ivan Baez

        Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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        thanks for your feedback. I will check if the TPS reading is working ok, I did not see the readings on that last time I drove it, good tip!.
         
      • Ivan Baez

        Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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        I checked the car yesterday. The TPS in the edelbrock app read ok, from zero to 99, depending on how much the pedal was pressed. I turned on the car on and the IAC started working immediately, this is it got fixed by itself. I ran it for around 30min I did not see any failure, obviously the Idle RPM feature worked fine and idle was pretty stable.

        All I noticed at the beggining was that in the values was that the IAC % was quite hich, around 60%, so I did a fine tuning on it until it went down to green values (5%-20%), lets see how it behaves in the following days.
         
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        • Ivan Baez

          Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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          Could it be that this TPS reading happens when you turn the key on with the foot resting on the pedal?
           
        • Ivan Baez

          Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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          Im wondering what size of alternator everyone is using. I have a 90amp one from an 80s chrysler vehicle, but yesterday the battery drained after I was stuck on traffic at 90 degrees ambient for about 40min, the derale 2400cfm fan was on all the time (I recently lowered the fan ON temps to 185 and 195 respectively so the engine ran cooler) and I was listening to music (2 amplifiers 2200w total, obviously not full volume), and then after a wile I noticed the voltage coming down until the car stalled.

          Called the wife to bring her SUV and charged the battery for a while, then it started normal.
          I got this alternator when the car was carburated, just for the sound system. But now with the efi, efi sump pump, CDI box and the electric fan the load seems to be too much for that alternator.

          Amp has been there for about 6 months, the previous one was exactly the same but I replaced it because it started making noise on the bearing. The battery is a red optima 1000 cca, I installed it a month ago or so.

          I was looking at a 90s 120A alternator from a ram charger (see pic below), since I have serpentine belt the options are less that for V belt. There is a power master unit 160a and others 200a and higher. Not sure what happens when you have an alternator much higher than you current needs.

          Please let me know what you guys are running. Im planning to add front electric windows and AC to the car in the future.

          Screenshot_20220403-165707_Chrome.jpg
           
        • JoesEdge

          JoesEdge Well-Known Member

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          Are you running a Magnum serpentine setup? Just curious.
           
        • Ivan Baez

          Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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          yes, got a crank and water pump pulleys from a later model 360, should be a magnum, and then got the alternator. Since I have no power steering or AC nothing else was needed.

          you can kind of see it in these old pics

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          • Ivan Baez

            Ivan Baez 426 SB daily driver

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            I made some measurements and it seems the old alternator was not charging at all. At idle voltage with full charged battery was 11.8-12.0V. I manually excited the alternator and did not change at all, so I removed it and installed the 120A alternator I got.

            The alignment seems the same but the new one is a little bit fatter, so now I have a clearance problem on the back of the alternator with the head, so it has to be cloked differently. Now I need a longer lower bracket. Im gonna solve this by installing a Heim joint adjuster, and a longer belt, lets see how that works.

            Anyone is using this alternator type?, according to the catalog the application is for a RAM 1500, Jeep grand cherokee, etc If I remember correctly late 80's or early 90's.

            WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 9.03.37 AM (3).jpeg

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            WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 9.03.36 AM.jpeg
             
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