ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads
- Thread starter j par
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j par
Well-hung Member
Well after more reading on the subject I might just leave well enough alone...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
From the picture it looks like the shafts need to up and back. No way should the rocker be that close to the springs and retainer, unless they are 1.625 diameter springs.
I’d send those pictures to Mike at B3 and let him see them. Now is the time to fix it.
I’d send those pictures to Mike at B3 and let him see them. Now is the time to fix it.
I hit the agree button but i did the same thing. mine was more to the exh side not the spring side.
I leaned about Mikes kit after it was together and running.
If/when i get down that far again.........i will be getting Mike at B3 to help me out.
I leaned about Mikes kit after it was together and running.
If/when i get down that far again.........i will be getting Mike at B3 to help me out.
j par
Well-hung Member
The tips are at 3/4 of the way to the back on the intake side and you want me to bring him back further?...
j par
Well-hung Member
I think I mentioned a couple posts ago that I have the Hughes shims that I never used when I put the rockers on my factory heads as they were exactly the same as my 273 rockers.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
LOL...we are on two different threads. Yeah, just raise it up and look at it. If it makes it worse, than the valves are too short, or the shafts are too high, however you want to say it. In that case a lash cap may be in order, but I’d call Mike and let him decide what to do.
The math is way over my head to calculate how much up and back this stuff needs to be, which is embarrassing really, but IIWII. What I do know is working with arcs and fulcrums and such does strange things when you move one part of the equation.
It’s cheap to just raise the shaft a bit and see what it looks like.
j par
Well-hung Member
I think that picture is without shims. I do like my adjusters almost all the way in.. when I start shimming the adjusters come out quite a ways... I couldn't imagine using the same pushrods with a B3 kit...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you can use the shims to raise the shafts and get a picture without busting a saddle you can do that. The issue with the shim like that is they only raise the shaft and they don’t move the shaft away from the valve. Using those shims will at least let you see which way you need to go, and you have them.
j par
Well-hung Member
Did you read post 1374 the second to the last one on the last page?..
j par
Well-hung Member
Here's one that kind of lost me in the instructions for the Hughes rockers. Do they want .005 to .015 between each Gap or total between clamp down to clamp down for both rockers and accompanying spacers?...
It's the total gap. block to block
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yeah, I read it before and just read it again to refresh my memory.
That’s the problem with the shims that Hughes sends out. They only raise the shaft, they don’t move it away from the valve.
Again, the math is WAY over my head, but you are working with an arc that the rocker works on, around a fulcrum. And it moves a valve that moves up and down (I hope Mike sees this and comes by and corrects me) while the rocker moves about its fulcrum.
If you take a straight edge and lay it against the valve or valve spring and then use another to simulate the shaft (fulcrum) you’ll see that as the get longer (move away from the head for the valve and like you are raising the shaft) you’ll see they not only get closer together the further away from the head you get, but they actually cross.
That’s why you can’t just add longer valves, or a roller tip or both without raising the shaft AND moving it away from the valve. Otherwise, the two will move closer together and the geometry is never correct.
And yes, you’ll need longer pushrods when you correct the geometry. You’ll be raising the shaft enough that the push rods you have will be way too short.
j par
Well-hung Member
so a couple hundred at least for B3 kit and almost a couple of hundred or more from new Smith Brothers pushrods correct?...
Something tells me I'm going to get it the best I can LOL with what I have...
j par
Well-hung Member
My problem isn't rolling off the tip on the exhaust side it's getting it closer to the exhaust side... You do see that in the picture correct?...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yep. But...like I’m saying, you are only raising the shaft, and that makes it closer to the valve/spring. If you raise the shaft AND move it away from the valve you’ll see something different.
And yes, it’s expensive to fix, but worth it.
A lash cap will make it worse .
j par
Well-hung Member
Honestly it seems like the last cap would make it better? As in bring the roller to the center.. which I'm also finding out isn't ultra critical with rollers.. it's looking like just leaving it alone it's going to create the smallest sweep pattern..
Anyways I'll head out to the garage turn on some possum face and work on it today...
No, shortening the valve and nosing the roller down with it would take it closer to center. not the best way. lol
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’d run it.
j par
Well-hung Member
Just keep in mind many of us went pretty fast for a lot of year before we even heard of "rocker geometry" or knew what to look for. Like I said earlier we fixed weak links and moved on. Grind a rocker when needed, lash caps, thicker pushrods, rocker shaft shims, or whatever it took. finish it and have fun.
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I spent some time with them and if I could have thrown a simple shim underneath them that I have or order some $40 lash caps to make things better I would have. I think they're just fine.
j par
Well-hung Member
My cam card says .022 lash... I usually set it at .019 cold and let it rip...
For some reason I'm thinking aluminum heads required more lash when cold??..
For some reason I'm thinking aluminum heads required more lash when cold??..
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