Purchased 8 3/4 rear I need some help

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whats even worse is I left feedback then looked at it. how stupid is that..lol I mean I did look at it but not close.

The welds look sub par to me but I have to live with it. I have to get that slag out and clean the whole thing out. I really think he should have done that before shipping it out. oh well
 
Can you tell what they used to cut it? I can't tell from your photo, but the photo of the interior looks like it might have been plasma/ flame cut?
 
The more I look at it the more my blood pressure is going up :angryfir:
 

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mowrycuda68 said:
what would be the best way to replace that stud?
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they are pressed in so just grab a hammer and knock it out then if there is enough clearance on the back side hammer the new one in if you dont have enough clearance use a lug nut and a few washers tighten the lugnut slowly with a breaker bar and socket and pull it through that way
 
that wasnt a bad price on the housing but i think i woulda saved the narrowing for a known good local guy to do because it does look like crap from the pics
 
i learned that the hard way a while ago . so i now go by the rule of if i cant see their work in person before i spend my money on it I'm not doing it unless its a well know reputable company . mine was a custom drive shaft for a lifted ranger i was building the welds looked like drunk hillbilly supervised a 5 year old with a torch and a coat hanger . i put it on went to go for a test drive never even made it out of the driveway the rear yoke snapped off . the seller stated it could handle 44in tires and up to 800 hp i had 38s and a 2.3l that made a whopping 100 hp . needless to say i bought a welder and fixed it myself then took it to have it balanced . a $250 part in the end cost me almost $1400 including the welder .
 
at the very least if i were you i would take it to a local shop you trust and have them look at it to make sure its going to be strong enough for what you want to do with it
 
That's a real beauty there. How do you know it's straight and true. Do like someone suggested and take it to a machine shop and have it checked. Then it won't eat axels or dogtrack or something.
 
yeah it wouldn't hurt to have it checked/ pretty sure the machine shop around here is going to want the slag cleaned out before checking it. What a brick. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night ripping folks of like that. What happened to the good old days when people took pride in there work. I told that guy to take his time. I called him to ask about the slag the stud and the piss poor welds and the fact that the damn thing is off my a 1/8. He said he was falling behind. I told him he should have put my housing to the side and rush Fu**ed some one elses item. I contacted the guy a few times to tell him no rush i want a good job on this. Then when I get it its a hot mess. I had a dream last night that I took that stupid housing and smashed his shop up Gallagher style. Oh the sweet therapy. It slices it dices its even a juicer!!!!
 

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I wouldn't sweat about the slag. Just knock off what's in the area where the bearings go & make sure the rest isn't loose & gonna fall off & get washed into the gears etc when it's in use. You can use a small chisle & just tap it enough to knock the slag off. Or use a die grinder & a porting stone.
As long as the welds have good penetration you should be OK. The main thing is when they cut it & rewelded it back together was it done in a jig to brace it so it wouldn't warp from the heat.
An 1/8" isn't gonna make a difference. I bet the factory tolerences weren't that good either.

See, we can be nice here on FABO! Lol!
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
I wouldn't sweat about the slag. Just knock off what's in the area where the bearings go & make sure the rest isn't loose & gonna fall off & get washed into the gears etc when it's in use. You can use a small chisle & just tap it enough to knock the slag off. Or use a die grinder & a porting stone.
As long as the welds have good penetration you should be OK. The main thing is when they cut it & rewelded it back together was it done in a jig to brace it so it wouldn't warp from the heat.
An 1/8" isn't gonna make a difference. I bet the factory tolerences weren't that good either.

See, we can be nice here on FABO! Lol!
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He did use a jig and brace thats the only place thats doesnt have slag in the bearing hub so. i guess all i have to do is get the slag out then and replace the messed up studs. I still would never send a finished product out the door like that.

oh no everyone is nice around here!! Don't cha know!!:angel10:
 
You're sure he used the tool for holding the end straight ? The tool only holds the end correctly to the housing and bearing surface true to it's plain and also centerline to the carrier, after which you STILL need to then check it and possibly straighten it if it needs it.
 
yeah he did you can see where the hub is clean from having the slug in there he explained to me exactly how he did it he has the end plugs the straight shaft to go through those and a fitting on the carrier.I want to believe him but I got a place to take it to have it checked though. Why is it that every time I have some one do some thing for my car they f*ck it up. The only reason I had some one else do it is because I don't have the jig to. I just don't trust anyone to do work on my car. I do it my self. But for things like this I have to have some one else do it since I don't have the capability. I really hate it when I am at the mercy of someone else's work. I get let down every time.:banghead:
 
Is it the jealousy??? Because if some one asked me to work on a 68 Barracuda I would be meticulous and precise.

Last time I had some one work on my car was at Walmart( yes I know what was I thinking) but all they had to do was mount 1 tire. I got it home and decided I was going to swap it for the spare tire. THe freaking stud was stripped to hell. I take it back there to confront them and they told me I did it. OMFG how in the heck do you do that taking the wheel off. So stupid. The wasmart manager knew it was BS and made the guy do to the part store and buy with his money a new stud. it was worth the wait. But lesson learned its better to do it yourself no matter what it is. We will see how the machine shop here in town does prepping my 440 block and crank. Sucks living so far from the city my choices are limited.
 
mowrycuda68 said:
Some of it came out with a screwdriver the rest is stuborn
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Look at the heat affected zones on the inside. It looks like that's where the perch is welded. Either way, there is a bare spot in between the two blue-ish HAZs. Might be an indication of a cold weld in that spot. Not sure if it matters though since I'm not a pro welder. Maybe someone else can chime in on this???
 
I saw that to its just dust I wiped it and the color is even. I think he did an "OK" job welding it just the clean up was not done. Sometimes an ugly weld is a good weld. I emphasize the sometimes. We'll see though. I did pop the slag out of the bearing and seal hub. wasnt as bad as I thought. now I just have to clean the tubes out and start building once I know for sure its straight.
 
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