What do yall think? Is it critical I get longer pushrods? I honestly don't see how it will change very much of anything.
Pushrod Length Opinions
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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You’ll get more lift. Other than that, what you have is fine. But you’ll definitely get more lift.
So, how may threads would you aim for showing on the bottom side?
I can’t remember how they oil but IIRC they have a hole in the rocker like the other Chrysler engines.
That means the protrusion should be 9/32 plus .050 minus .000.
That usually puts the necked down area of the adjuster in line with the oil feed hole. The oil squirts out the hole, hits the necked down area and goes into the cup.
@MOPARMAGA has a couple of pictures of what the correct pushrod length looks like.
0-2 threads per my rockers. 0 lines up the squirter at the neck down like newbomb sez
Guaranteed oil to the ball and cup.
In my case I will be trimming the valve tips .005
Because I'm working with only .016-.018 to play with for lash.
So I will likely benefit from longer pushrods. Moochas grassy ***.
Yes sir.
What is the overall length and diameter of your PR's I'll see if I have longer ones
I'll have to post it tomorrow. We're bout headed to bed tonight. I gotta do all the music in church in the mornin.
Rock on !
You might get more lift, but will there be a measurable improvement? The Crane quick lift rockers got more initial lift, & the valves open quicker, by lowering the prod socket....much like you have already.
I would be worried that I would not have enough oiling
because of oiling notch in adjuster being restricted if
it was a Mopar V8 engine. 6 Cylinder engine is out of my
expertise but it probably is still a concern.
because of oiling notch in adjuster being restricted if
it was a Mopar V8 engine. 6 Cylinder engine is out of my
expertise but it probably is still a concern.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
If I remember corectly, the instructions that came with the Mopar Performance pushrod kit said there should be 1-2 threads showing.
Make sure you check for rocker to valve cover clearance, when done. It looks like the rocker shaft has been raised, and with longer pushrods, the adjusters will stick out the top further. You might have an issue.
Make sure you check for rocker to valve cover clearance, when done. It looks like the rocker shaft has been raised, and with longer pushrods, the adjusters will stick out the top further. You might have an issue.
The shaft has been raised. A lot. The rockers hit the valve cover on the rear at full lift. That's why I got a valve cover spacer from @Badvert65 to take care of it. Here's my thread on it @Charrlie_S. It's a nice piece.
Mattman's Mopars !
Matt (@Badvert65) owns and operates "Mattman's Mopars" and specializes in some pretty nice specialty slant 6 only items. Here is his ebay page: Mattman's Mopars I got this from him today. It's an aluminum valve cover spacer to space the valve cover up if you're running some really nice roller...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
OK. I now remember reading that post.The shaft has been raised. A lot. The rockers hit the valve cover on the rear at full lift. That's why I got a valve cover spacer from @Badvert65 to take care of it. Here's my thread on it @Charrlie_S. It's a nice piece.
Mattman's Mopars !
Matt (@Badvert65) owns and operates "Mattman's Mopars" and specializes in some pretty nice specialty slant 6 only items. Here is his ebay page: Mattman's Mopars I got this from him today. It's an aluminum valve cover spacer to space the valve cover up if you're running some really nice roller...
No oil holes, no squirting. The oil goes thru' a hole in the shaft bushing weldment and into a circumferential trough formed by the arm body forming, then thru' two passages also formed when the body is stamped before it is folded in half around the adjuster end. One passage goes right to the end above the valve tip & runs down over the rocker portion of the arm, the other goes 'up' to an open trough also formed during stamping, and runs down to the adjuster screw. When it reaches the screw it migrates down thru' the gap left by the 'open' end of the folded stamping, and basically trickles down between that small v-gap & the adjuster screw, running down the threads to get to the pushrod ball & cup.
225 Slanty pushrods are longer than RB pushrods,....
Regardless of 'lift & ratio' changes/increases, the trickle-down nature of the oiling will be compromised by having to travel that far, I'm concerned too much will be shaken off at higher rpms before it makes it to the cups.
Yes, DV covered this in His Rocker Arm Tech episode. What isn't discussed is what might happen to the dynamics & seat load requirements if You just toss a set on Your combo, if You have 'just enough'(which is fine), it could be pushed over the edge & valve bounce can take any small lift-rate gains away. Never forget a quicker ratio doesn't just open more abruptly, it sets 'em down the same.
Damn /6’s. I forgot how those rockers oil.
Correct. That's why it's so important to get the rockers CLEAN and double check the passages with thin mechanic's wire.
That’s a stud mounted rocker.
IMO you want the valve off the seat as fast as your valve train can take and then around max lift, where the airflow through the induction is the highest you want the valve to slow down and hang out there.
If you slow it down off the seat, you speed it up at max lift and you lose power.
Here are some pictures of the rocker and their oiling passages. You can see I highlighted the passages in red. Oil comes through the passage going off to the valve tip and oils the rocker pad and valve tip. Oil goes up the the other passage and flows down the trough made by the folded halves of the rocker and flows down the split in the threaded adjuster hole and oils the pushrod cup and ball. Very simplistic, but it flat works. So, as this is designed, the pushrod length has nothing to do with whether or not the pushrod cups get oil.
I got a pushrod checker coming so I'll have the correct length pushrods soon. The stock 225 pushrod is like 9.890.
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