Question about seat bums

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Kit, your mailbox is full
Urethane foam is a superior material. For anyone thinking of making 2 part Urethane foam parts, be aware that the chemical reaction produces highly toxic cyanide gas. Use extreme caution and vent the gas outside your work area.
 
Urethane foam is a superior material. For anyone thinking of making 2 part Urethane foam parts, be aware that the chemical reaction produces highly toxic cyanide gas. Use extreme caution and vent the gas outside your work area.
CYANIDE GAS IS A BITHCH, don`t belive us? go burn a piece of pvc pipe and smell !
 
I can hardly believe it's been about 6 years since I met you and brought the car home. Motor has been rebuilt here at home. Friend from Ohio came down with some goodies like a double sprocket timing chain and brass freeze plugs. He helped me pull the motor and it is in the garage on a stand.
 
I didn`t have any of the problems I read here, mine were very tight, but were shaped right, and look stock, except for my custom made seat covers. They were a name brand and bought from Summit racing thru the internet. I bought a new toe sack at Attwoods to replace the old stuff.
Do you have a link to the seat foam you got?
 
I talked to an upholsterer at a car show and he said in his experience, all the readily available seat foam was coming from the same source. Regardless who is selling it. They are molded to get the contours and I guess nobody wants to pay for their own tooling to be made. Another thing is that it seems most of the 60's Mopars use the same part number. A thru C bodies. Trimming is required to fit some models. If a Mustang part works, go for it.

I bought a complete kit from Legendary when they had a sale. Typically you can save 20% if you order from a show or wait for the sale. The buns were the last things I later bought because they seemed expensive. The foam just deteriorates from age and that's a fact.

My thinking is I'm not going to go to all the trouble of rebuilding/finishing the frames, buying the skins and underlayment, and then skimp out on the foam. I see cars all the time at shows where the old buns were obviously recovered and it shows.

And....my 64 is a convertible and the interior is exposed for everyone to see far more than a fixed roof car. I have everything I need and was going to do it myself but I just may haul it all to a pro and get a 100 point job.
 
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The original seat buns have an inner square section, and the outer curved part, bonded with cast in cords. The seat covers attach via rods that are hog ringed to base support spings. The rods go inbetween the square section as outer curved foam. I also seem to remember muslin fabric cast into curved foam edge parts, they serves to tie down and restrain. I wonder if aftermarket buns have these features?
 
The original seat buns have an inner square section, and the outer curved part, bonded with cast in cords. The seat covers attach via rods that are hog ringed to base support spings. The rods go inbetween the square section as outer curved foam. I also seem to remember muslin fabric cast into curved foam edge parts, they serves to tie down and restrain. I wonder if aftermarket buns have these features?
Mine used burlap as an insulater, the stock set up was the same way, Got bulap (toesack) from Attwoods, foam from summit , seatcovers (special) from Vanessas in Tulsa. never again use them !
All is well now that I redid everything myself.
 
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