bwillaub
Well-Known Member
I'm looking to test run my 440 before installing. Anyone have a wiring diagram on how it needs to be wired in order to do this? I've watched several videos on you tube but they are vague in details. Thanks.
Question For The Experts
- Thread starter bwillaub
- Start date
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Depends on a few things. If you are on a test stand you probably don't need to wire anything since the ignition system is usually mounted on the control panel. If you are building your own test stand then you'll need to decide which ignition system to use and then wire it according to the instructions. You may or may not want to run an alternator. The starter wiring depends on which starter you use and how you want to trigger it. So the answer is "it all depends".
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Oh come on, I can answer his question with only the info he gave.
Ground the block and power the coil, ignition and starter.
bwillaub
Well-Known Member
This simple man likes a simple answer. Thanks.Oh come on, I can answer his question with only the info he gave.
Ground the block and power the coil, ignition and starter.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
and I used an electric pump with a gas can. a GM module and e coil made it super easy
Demonic
Well-Known Member
bwillaub
Well-Known Member
It has electronic ignition distributor and box, both Mallory. I was going to put a "points" distributor in for the test run as I am not certain the box is good.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You don't even need a fuel pump if you can figure a way to safely elevate the fuel supply........gravity feed to the carb.
Breaker points makes things simple. Scare yourself up a ballast resistor if you are going to run it for more than a minute or two. It can be a dual resistor, you will only use 2 terminals. Go to MyMopar and look up the diagram, as the resistor is different on each side, only one side feeds the coil.
Hook battery.....resistor.......coil +........coil minus to distributor.
Hook jumpers/ cables from block and starter to battery. Run a jumper wire from the ballast to the battery PLUS
Use a screwdriver or jumper lead to jumper from the "big" battery terminal on starter solenoid to the small solenoid terminal and it "runs".........or at least cranks
I have run engines hanging from chains on the hoist, and ran a Magnum with a home made carb adapter on an engine stand with blocks under the pan
LMFAO Anybody figure out what this is?
My "go to" for test / emergency ignition, is either breaker points or an HEI module "in a box"
This hooks to a Mopar breakerless (magnetic) distributor and already has an old Mopar coil, and needs no ballast
Breaker points makes things simple. Scare yourself up a ballast resistor if you are going to run it for more than a minute or two. It can be a dual resistor, you will only use 2 terminals. Go to MyMopar and look up the diagram, as the resistor is different on each side, only one side feeds the coil.
Hook battery.....resistor.......coil +........coil minus to distributor.
Hook jumpers/ cables from block and starter to battery. Run a jumper wire from the ballast to the battery PLUS
Use a screwdriver or jumper lead to jumper from the "big" battery terminal on starter solenoid to the small solenoid terminal and it "runs".........or at least cranks
I have run engines hanging from chains on the hoist, and ran a Magnum with a home made carb adapter on an engine stand with blocks under the pan
LMFAO Anybody figure out what this is?
My "go to" for test / emergency ignition, is either breaker points or an HEI module "in a box"
This hooks to a Mopar breakerless (magnetic) distributor and already has an old Mopar coil, and needs no ballast
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you have a dual ballast, this is from MyMopar
Notice one side of the dual is same as the single. The "U" at the left end is your index, and that is why it is there.........to identify which half is which
On a side note, the coil / resistor wiring for the original Mopar ignition DID NOT CHANGE from points wiring. This means (I realize you have Mallory) that if the Mopar breakerless quits, and you have a points distributor, you can yank the Mopar breakerless, stuff the points distro in there, and hook it back up to the coil. Unplug the ECU and be on your way..........assuming the ballast/ wiring/ coil is OK
Notice one side of the dual is same as the single. The "U" at the left end is your index, and that is why it is there.........to identify which half is which
On a side note, the coil / resistor wiring for the original Mopar ignition DID NOT CHANGE from points wiring. This means (I realize you have Mallory) that if the Mopar breakerless quits, and you have a points distributor, you can yank the Mopar breakerless, stuff the points distro in there, and hook it back up to the coil. Unplug the ECU and be on your way..........assuming the ballast/ wiring/ coil is OK
I used your “emergency ignition” design for a year and a half on my race car. Worked perfectly.
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