Questions about BB conversion

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MoparNewb73

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I've decided to go big or go home, and install a BB in my Dart. I'm deciding on a combination built from a 440 block I received from a friend. The car was converted over to a v-8 k member before I bought the vehicle, but what else needs to be converted over to install a big block in it? Do the torsion bars need to be changed, motor mounts need to be relocated?? Its a 73 dart, automatic. Any help/guidance will be GREATLY appreciated.
 
If it has the original 6cyl torsion bars you will like the V-8 bars better. The slant bars are at their limit holding up a 440 for street driving. If it was a 6cyl car it may also still have the small pattern drums up front which you will also want to get rid of in favor of large pattern disc brakes to match the upgraded rear axle you will need. The 8 3/4 from a 67-70 B body or similar is the most popular rear of choice. There are several ways to upgrade the front brakes in the tech archives and other threads on here. There is also a rear axle chart or two that show the widths and spring perch locations etc...
 
73 should be big bolt pattern. I'd look at conversion mounts, front sway bar, exhaust headers, big block 727, shorten driveshaft, I would run at least .92 T bars unless it will be a drag car. And a torque strap. Eventually a Dana 60.
 
I'm not even close to finished with mine yet, but if I were to start over, here are the parts I would gather up before starting any work: 8 3/4 rear end (if you can afford it, save yourself a headache and get a correct A body rear end). Sub frame connectors. Schumacher engine mounts and headers. Factory 3 piece kickdown linkage set or aftermarket kickdown cable set.

Once the engine and rear end are bolted into the car, then you can measure to have a driveline made up for it.

I'm sure I'm forgetting some things, but these were the big items that would have saved me major headaches if I had them before I started wrenching.

Edit -

I didn't see mention of a transmission, it will be big block specific. The original slant 6 trans or small block trans will not bolt up to the 440.

Before you get engine mounts you will need to know which V8 K member you have, if it is a stock factory piece it will be either the earlier ('68-'72?) or the spool mount type that came in '73-'76 darts. Once you know this, the correct mounts from Schumacher should make the swap a straight bolt in deal.
 
I've decided to go big or go home, and install a BB in my Dart.

Good choice

I'm deciding on a combination built from a 440 block I received from a friend.

440's are great engines to use in any build. Good as a 440 with a lot of potential to stroke.

The car was converted over to a v-8 k member before I bought the vehicle, but what else needs to be converted over to install a big block in it?

You'll need conversion mounts, no relocation needed, just buy the mounts from schumacher

Do the torsion bars need to be changed

No, you can actually run /6 bars with a BB if you want to. I run .890 bars.

Additional advice. Join www.bigblockdart.com and read the info found there.

Headers from TTI or Schumacher.

Lose your heater.

Offset the master cylinder

Make sure you at least have the 8.75 rear

Offset shackle kit in the rear at a minimum.

Aluminum radiator

Longer throttle cable and bracket
 

Additional advice. Join www.bigblockdart.com and read the info found there.

Headers from TTI or Schumacher.

Lose your heater.

Offset the master cylinder

Make sure you at least have the 8.75 rear

Offset shackle kit in the rear at a minimum.

Aluminum radiator

Longer throttle cable and bracket

I built my own engine mount setup (it was a pain, I don't recommend it) and was able to keep the heater and brake master cylinder in the stock locations. A power brake master cylinder will likely cause problems, tall aftermarket valve covers will likely cause problems.

With the stock intake the throttle cable was too short, when I put the engine back in the car after the rebuild with an old Torker manifold it worked, I'm guessing the manifold moved the carb back a bit.

I still have the stock slant 6 torsion bars in mine with no sway bar, so going around corners the front end feels a bit squishy. I like the way the stock torsion bars unload on takeoff for weight transfer in a straight line, but if you want yours to corner at all you will want to upgrade.
 
Awesome, thanks for all the info. Sorry for the delayed response, been kinda busy at work. Picking up the 440 block and 727 trans this weekend, pretty stoked on it!!!
 
I built my own engine mount setup (it was a pain, I don't recommend it) and was able to keep the heater and brake master cylinder in the stock locations. A power brake master cylinder will likely cause problems, tall aftermarket valve covers will likely cause problems.

I installed my 440 with the heater and the master in the stock locations as well. BUT...Good luck getting the valve covers off without tearing gaskets or beating your head against the wall. I do run MPP Covers. The master offset is cheap and moves it over just enough. Takes about 15 minutes to install.
 
I installed my 440 with the heater and the master in the stock locations as well. BUT...Good luck getting the valve covers off without tearing gaskets or beating your head against the wall. I do run MPP Covers. The master offset is cheap and moves it over just enough. Takes about 15 minutes to install.

True. Valve covers are a pain to get on and off. :banghead:
 
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