Questions for Evaporust Users

[Icetech]

i read that acid won't stop, unless you wash well with water, and it can't be used on sandblasted parts that have re-rusted!

Depends on the acid.. i did a bunch of reading and supposedly phosphoric is really nasty on rust but pretty much stops when it hits clean steal, and i hope that's true or my car will be gone soon I do know for dipping a stronger acid is used and i have heard of people not neutralizing and the car just rots to nothing.

 

[Killer6]

Thank you. It's a little worse than the photos show. There are a few pin holes on the outer rear edge that I'll need to cut out and repair. I'd rather treat the rust as best I can than just cover it with goopy paint that I'd likely get more on me than the rust metal. Just trying to decide whether to take the acid approach, or give evaporust a try.

Evaporust is non-toxic, and safe for You, pets, etc. It also works extremely well, & helps protect the metal after it has removed the rust. I have done a set of GLH coils, tools(some alloys will have a black iron film when done, scrub scrub scrub), and other suspension & sheet metal parts. I oil the tools, & oil/paint/etc. whatever is needed for the parts. I've painted right over treated strut mount plates & spring seats just patting them dry, with Rustoleum, still look great 10yrs. later. I've used bottles, jugs, & other containers simply filled with water to displace large volumes of airspace to reduce how much product is required to cover the item/areas.

 

[Killer6]

As far as phosphoric acid goes, that is Metalprep, which I've used on carbs in the past.


Hemi carb before

The pair after.

 

[Icetech]

As far as phosphoric acid goes, that is Metalprep, which I've used on carbs in the past.

View attachment 1716040600
Hemi carb before
View attachment 1716040601
The pair after.

Not even sure what i'm looking at there? looks nasty though

Is that fire extinguisher powder?

 

[NoCar340]

Evapo-Rust and the similar concoctions that predate it all seem to work better if they're flowed over the part rather than simply soaking it. Even when soaking, they're more effective if you have some sort of circulation pump running (I use a cheap 12V submersible marine bilge pump). It just works better if it's moving, rinsing away what it's removed. I learned that trick using Ultra One's Safest Rust Remover, which has been around longer than Evapo-Rust and works better. It's still expensive, though.

For large parts like that, the best setup would be the 12V pump, a kiddie pool, some PVC/hose and a cheap shower head. Of course, that means a lot of Evapo-Rust. A better solution is Esprit Performance's concentrate, into which you mix the water, and hence control the strength. I've found that even at their weakest recommended dilution, it's still as effective as Evapo-Rust and every bit as safe. One gallon of Esprit makes up to 20 gallons of useful solution--perfect for the kiddie-pool arrangement--for about $100 shipped. When the level starts to go down, just add more water--same as Evapo and Safest. Just make sure you have sealable buckets for storage after you've used it. I mix mine @ 11:1, so one quart makes three gallons, or 12 gallons total. 12 gallon of Evapo-Rust is what, $300? Even using distilled water (which I do), it's dramatically less expensive.

Added bonus: You're dealing with an entrepreneur rather than some faceless corporation. Need help? You'll probably deal with Lee (the owner). He's very involved and quite helpful.

www.rustdepot.com

Here are before/after photos of Miss Belvedere, the time-capsule '57 Plymouth unearthed in 2007 after 50 years underground in Tulsa. This was Ultra One's handiwork, flowing Safest Rust Remover over the entire car:

 

[hemi71x]

I was kinda hopin you'd chime in. Can you tell us how you keep Evaporust fresh and working? Do you somehow filter it? All I've tried might get three at the most good cleanings with it and then it slows down dramatically and then just stops working altogether.

R.R.R.
I just keep the 5 gallon pail of Evaporust out in the garage, without doing any kind of storage to it, when not in use.
I'm Northern California, (Sacramento area) so it really doesn't get that cold around here to have the Evaporust "slow down" due to colder temperatures, in my opinion.
One of my habits with Evaporust, after i get done soaking the parts, is i always empty the pail into another container, and rinse out all the crud from the bottom of the pail, that the Evaporust removed.
Maybe that prolongs the usage of the Evaporust, but i really dunno.
I get my Evaporust at a O'Reilly's Auto store in my area, and they give me a 10% Veterans discount on the stuff, so price wise, for me, it's still not that bad, cost wise.
Are you using a one gallon, or 5 gallon container of Evaporust?
The strength of the stuff does depend on how much, how often you are soaking the parts.
Lots of usage cuts down on the time, before the Evaporust looses it's strength.
Jim V.
hemi71x

Don't know how many other soakings the Evaporust went through, before these LCA's went through the solution, but as you can see, they come out looking like this.

 

[RustyRatRod]

R.R.R.
I just keep the 5 gallon pail of Evaporust out in the garage, without doing any kind of storage to it, when not in use.
I'm Northern California, (Sacramento area) so it really doesn't get that cold around here to have the Evaporust "slow down" due to colder temperatures, in my opinion.
One of my habits with Evaporust, after i get done soaking the parts, is i always empty the pail into another container, and rinse out all the crud from the bottom of the pail, that the Evaporust removed.
Maybe that prolongs the usage of the Evaporust, but i really dunno.
I get my Evaporust at a O'Reilly's Auto store in my area, and they give me a 10% Veterans discount on the stuff, so price wise, for me, it's still not that bad, cost wise.
Are you using a one gallon, or 5 gallon container of Evaporust?
The strength of the stuff does depend on how much, how often you are soaking the parts.
Lots of usage cuts down on the time, before the Evaporust looses it's strength.
Jim V.
hemi71x

Don't know how many other soakings the Evaporust went through, before these LCA's went through the solution, but as you can see, they come out looking like this.

View attachment 1716040673

Thanks, Jim. I used the 5 gallon pail. Maybe that's what I should try if I try it again. That sounds like a good idea.

 

[mopowers]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I think I have a good plan for this decklid now. I'll update this thread when I get it done.

 

[413]

It’s all a band aid. I like evaporust too. I don’t see it being a valid solution in this situation unless you could physically submerse the panel for days.

Evaporust is not a band aid. It removes rust and leaves bare metal behind. POR15 doesn’t remove rust, it covers it up with a coating. Not the same at all.

 

[413]

Great advice removing the crud when done.

And use a separate container with just enough to soak your parts, not the entire 5 gallon pail. Don’t pour used stuff back in with the new stuff.

these things will make it last longer.

 

[Bodyperson]

Evaporust is not a band aid. It removes rust and leaves bare metal behind. POR15 doesn’t remove rust, it covers it up with a coating. Not the same at all.

I know very well the difference. What I am saying is nothing lasts forever. Even the best prepared coating will eventually fail. I'm not saying por15 is the answer to everything, it just seems like a good fix for that area. That dry suface rust is the perfect candidate for it.

Evaporust is not a band aid. It removes rust and leaves bare metal behind. POR15 doesn’t remove rust, it covers it up with a coating. Not the same at all.

 

[Killer6]

Not even sure what i'm looking at there? looks nasty though

Is that fire extinguisher powder?

Top pic, one of the Hemi AFBs as received, bottom after the rebuilds. Powdery junk is typical dried-up fuel residue, although there was backfire evidence, lol..maybe a little??

 

[MoparMike1974]

i read that acid won't stop, unless you wash well with water, and it can't be used on sandblasted parts that have re-rusted!

Sure it can, works fine. I did it just the other day. It wont do anything if no rust is present other than slightly etch the metal.
You can leave steel bare for several years if treated with phosphoric. However, if a drop of water gets on it it will rust. There are many brands of phosphoric acid. I have been using Ospho for about 20 years after I saw them using it on tug boats and barges at work.

Por-15 is garbage. I have experience with it and have read hundreds of negative posts about it. Many cases where the instructions were followed to a T and the stuff peels off in flakes.
Anyone who is painting over rust is asking for trouble. It may slow things down but rust doesnt sleep.

 

[mopowers]

I've had great luck with phosphoric acid it the past. Here's a couple before and after photos of when I did the underside of the roof panel using phosphoric acid from Lowe's along with some scotchbrite pads.

Before:

After:

 

[Bodyperson]

I've had great luck with phosphoric acid it the past. Here's a couple before and after photos of when I did the underside of the roof panel using phosphoric acid from Lowe's along with some scotchbrite pads.

Before:

After:

Ill bet that was great fun.

 

[MoparMike1974]

Its jobs like that where a rotiserie pays for itself in one moment.

 

[hemi71x]

I didn't realize that Evaporust had this "gell" product.
Anyone try it?

 

[413]

I've had great luck with phosphoric acid it the past. Here's a couple before and after photos of when I did the underside of the roof panel using phosphoric acid from Lowe's along with some scotchbrite pads.

Before:

After:

Looks great. Did you have to neutralize it when done?

 

[Icetech]

I actually used phosphorus in a bug sprayer to get into areas i couldn't brush it, like inside frame rails/supports.. then used eastwoods frame encapsulator after giving the acid a week or so to make sure it was dry

 

[mopowers]

Looks great. Did you have to neutralize it when done?

Thank you. I just used a bucket of clean water and rinsed it off really well before it dried. I did it a few times to make sure there'd be no residue. Then I wiped everything down with acetone before laying down a coat of Zero Rust paint. The whole process was a pain in ***, but it worked out very well.