Radiator is out, what can I do in the meantime?

Heating / Cooling / AC

  1. gdizzle

    gdizzle Well-Known Member

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    66 dart L6 3.7L, 225 .
    Removed rad. It still has some original metal tags on it from the Radiator shop who built it? In Los Angeles.
    Dropped off the rad. and will be tested and see if it is possible to fix.
    BTW: Spectra Premium CU 517 seems to be the closest fit to my orig. Same 6in TOC spacing. Mounting holes probably have to be redrilled. At least upper mounting holes are within 1/2in of the orig.

    So since rad. is out, I would like to do some other rehabs. like new belts, and also new thermostat and hoses. Is it worth my time and water to attempt to flush out the Engine cooling inlet/outlet? Stick a hose and turn it on?

    Any other ideas? Temperature sensor?
     

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  2. mpaahana23

    mpaahana23 Well-Known Member

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    How old is the water pump
     
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    • diymirage

      diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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      since the radiator is out I would pull the 225 and replace it with a 360
       
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      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        360-stroker
        lol

        Is it worth your time and water? Interesting question.
        How much would 5 minutes worth of water cost?
        Here in Manitoba, I probably pay less than $100 per year for all the water I can make run out of the taps. And I would for sure flush the core.In LA I cant say.I need heat in winter.I need the defroster to work. And Id rather find out now, that the core is going to pop a leak, than find out in winter.
        I run a 7psi cap. My hoses and such seem to last forever with it.Our summers are short and relatively cool though, with temps rarely exceeding the mid 90sF and never more than a few days in a row.Slantys are hard to overheat here. In winter I can hardly get enough heat out of her, often resorting to drastic measures.
         
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        • Phreakish

          Phreakish Well-Known Member

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          Definitely not a bad idea to flush it out and take a peek at the thermostat.

          I once had an issue with the heater not being very warm and the engine temperature would surge (from 180 to 210 back to 180 about every 15 seconds). I back-flushed the heater core and got a ton of gunk. Then hooked up a couple hoses and held them pointed skyward while I filled the core with a radiator cleaner. Back flushed it and got a ton more gunk out. The heater never worked so well before!

          Short story long, since you've got the system empty, it's probably best to flush and inspect while you can.
           
        • gdizzle

          gdizzle Well-Known Member

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          California is in a bad draught. You can get a ticket for wasting water.
           
        • barbee6043

          barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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          I agree flushing is well worthwhile!!! one thing I have noticed with all my slant cars is the neck ( that the upper rad hose goes to, they originals are alum and all had pinholes in them. I ordered new ones, from ROCK AUTO, PRETTY CHEAP, AND MADE OF CAST IRON. ( who hit the f riggin caps? not me!)
          I would replace the upper and lower hoses , heater hoses, unless pretty new, fan belt, like he said, the water pump..
          for those guys that always want to replace the slant, maybe they would donate us some $$$$! LOL
          actually, I keep being amazed at the number of people (inc me), that find joy with the thing!!!! O K so I have some cars with BIGGER engines for when I feel the neeed for speed.
           
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          • gdizzle

            gdizzle Well-Known Member

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            Interesting about the heater lines. Well as luck would have it, heater lines have been bypassed and looped to each other. So heater does not work. I am guessing that the heater core leaked and so the previous owner just bypass it.

            Replacing the heater core is on my list. However summer is fucking hot here is So Cal. So I have no real hurry to get it fixed.
             
          • dart4forte

            dart4forte FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Good time to go through the system while the rad is out. It's really cheap insurance to replace all those items
             
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            • Serj22

              Serj22 Well-Known Member

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              I can think of one better!

              While you have the rad out, take the timing cover off, and inspect the timing chain, if it's stretched, replace it with a cloys, then replace the water pump anyway if the system's drained. They're $25 for a new one. $30 for a new cloys timing set.

              Also you can just blow the slant out with compressed air. That seems to move more junk out of it for me than flushing water through it. YOu'll also want to take the water pump off anyway to do that so you can blow it right into the water jacket. Then replace the 2" bypass hose from the water pump to the head.

              There's tons you can do.

              This is also a good time to degrease the front of the engine.
               
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              • AJ/FormS

                AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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                Kick back. Get a cold drink. Play with the kids.Go for a swim.Sit in front/under the fan.Wait for the rad to show.
                 
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                • tarvin890

                  tarvin890 tarvin890

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                  mow the lawn? do the dishes, take out the trash....after all that you have time to work on the car....
                   
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                  • AJ/FormS

                    AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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                    mow the lawn? do the dishes, take out the trash....

                    Thats what I have a wife for

                    Bambitybam bam kabam

                    Kidding. She does other stuff too!
                     
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                    • BillGrissom

                      BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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                      Flush the block. Citric acid works best, w/ heat. Remove the block drain (passenger side, above oil pump, might need to poke a screwdriver thru the rust). I would have done so w/ old radiator in, but you might be able to loop the hoses and idle it for short times. If you ever thought of changing to Evan's Waterless Coolant (like me), now is the time, since you need to thoroughly dry the block.
                       
                    • gdizzle

                      gdizzle Well-Known Member

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                      Ok deep into it. Few observations and questions:

                      Good call on checking the water pump (see picture)

                      Also found out there was no thermostat installed? wow.

                      Inside the engine block, you can clearly see a thin small metal rod? I actually see 2 in there? What in the hell are those? They are loose. (see picture)

                      Lastly, need a little help , the 2 tubes that come off the engine, look like they are in very bad shape. Also I am not sure if that is something that can be replaced? It almost just looks like steel pipes from? One goes to the heater core, the other goes direct to water pump (very short rubber pipe). Should I attempt to remove these? I fear they might just break they are so corroded. I would probably be using vice grips or pipe wrench.. Either one will probably collapse the pipe? If I removed them is there a part that will replace? (see pics)
                       

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                    • TrailBeast

                      TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                      Could be pieces of an old radiator hose spring, or just about anything if they are not curved like the hose spring.
                      In any case they don't belong in there, so if you can pull them out do it.
                      If you can't, no big deal.
                       
                    • 383Scampman

                      383Scampman Well-Known Member

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                      Sometimes but not always those deposits you are showing actually come from LACK of USE. Engines sitting for long periods of time or idling often or in heavy traffic deposits accumulate and can't be dissolved or dissipate. Regular maintainence is effective in this area. Also, backflushing the system is equally effective with compressed air. Additives such as water wetters and rust inhibiters work well. A anode stick in the water flow will help. OTR trucks have coolant filters for a reason. Good luck, Tom
                       
                    • Serj22

                      Serj22 Well-Known Member

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                      I found a few of those rods in the head of my slant that you show. I was told it is left over from the casting process and not always removed.
                       
                    • acpat

                      acpat Well-Known Member

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                      this ^^^^^^^^^^^^ also check thermaldyne for radiator
                       
                    • halifaxhops

                      halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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                      Pull the drain plugs in the block and flush it out good, maybe pop a frezout plug that is easy to replace and get the crud out. Might be time to flush out the heater core and new hoses, looks kind of crusty. Do it now and save problems later. Just throwing this out, I used muriatic acid for a flush in my radiator, 1 cup into the system full of WATER! Watch it will burn you pretty good if it gets on you. A lot of crap came out, I ran it till it got hot and flushed it out a few times and added baking soda to neutralize it. Helped a lot with a cooling issue I was having.
                       
                    • gdizzle

                      gdizzle Well-Known Member

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                      Ok so as i was putting in waterpump torq to 30lbs, the gasket bulged out at several of the bolt locations. I used tack sealant lightly coated on gasket. Am i good or do i need to remove and reinstall a new gasket?
                       
                    • gdizzle

                      gdizzle Well-Known Member

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                      Also ended up replacing heater core at the same time. Which also means replacing all heater hoses, and heater defrost ducting inside.

                      Guy wanted $185 to reweld tanks, and clean and paint. I said no. Order a new one from PBoys on sale for $130. Went to pick up my old radiator, and they had accidentally fixed it even though I said no. So they gave it back, fixed for free.

                      I have put it back in, thinking about returning the new one I got. I might have to pay shipping back.

                      Cant test system until I reinstall the heater core unit.
                       
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