Raising the front end 69 Cuda

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Treblig

Treblig

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How many ways r there to raise the front suspension on a 69 barracuda? I know it's crazy but I want to get the front as high as possible. I already have the larger torsion bars (1.06) I believe. I've got a 318/AC, P/S, P/B, auto. Wondering if I need adjustable upper control arms or whatever to raise the front to the height I want. The only way I can go with taller tires is to cut the fender lip in front of the tire. I already have the tallest tire I can install without hitting the front part of the fender. A lift spindle would be great but they don't make those for barracudas. I have also converted to the large upper ball joint and 70s control arm for large disc brakes.
I know ....must people want to slam their car, NOT ME!!
Thank, Treblig
 
I don't know how much lift you're after. You can get some lift from torsion bar adjustment. Beyond that, I don't know. Maybe there is a way to alter the upper arm at the ball joint end. I know the aftermarket has threaded bung replacements for large ball joints. Whatever overall knuckle span would need to clear the wheel.
 
I lifted the front of my 99 Tahoe with lift spindles and I also had to use a kind of ball joint extension on the upper ball joint?? Last time I had the alignment done I asked the guy to raise it as high as possible. If I remember correctly... the upper control arm was pretty close to the bump stop after he was done. So is that the limiting factor?? The upper control arm? I don't want to mess up the geometry but I want to raise the front a couple of inches more. If I can't find a way with the suspension I would hate to cut the fender... but that's a last resort!!

Thanks for your reply,
treblig
 
You can raise the front quiet a bit with the adjusting bolt in the lower control arm...I'll leave the rest of my comments to myself...
 
Jim Lusk said:
You can raise the front quiet a bit with the adjusting bolt in the lower control arm...I'll leave the rest of my comments to myself...
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Yea, that's what the alignment guy used. But like I said, once he got the control arm close to the upper bump stop he said that he had to leave a little room for the suspension to rise up. If he kept cranking on the torsion bar bolts he would have eventually put the underside of the upper control arm against the bump stop. I appreciate you controlling your need to comment on my predicament. Like I said before, some like to lower their ride, I prefer the opposite.


Thanks,treblig
 
redfastback said:
You will lose all positive caster.
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That was one of my concerns. But I did install offset bushings in the upper control arms because the big disc brakes and the large ball joint control arm made it impossible to align. The offset bushings solved the problem. I was wondering if they made tubular control arms that allow the suspension to rise without hitting the bump stop?? And if they were adjustable, wouldn't the alignment guy be able to solve the caster problem??But I don't know if anyone knows if it would allow me to raise the front by switching to another type of upper control arm??
I know somebody on FABO has solved this problem before....
Treblig
 
If your going to go crazy then why not pull the sub frames and use a Dakota or s10 frame and make it high as a MAF. I'm trying to figure out what the benefit of having the car lifted up so high and all I can imagine is that you want to go off-roading. No insult intended....trying to think outside the box.
 
You can cut the rebound bump stop down a little. The adjusters should raise the car to the point that camber will go seriously negative. Shock extended length may become a factor.

How are you raising the rear?

Please explain why you want to do this. It sounds quite unsafe!!! If it's the dorky "gasser" look keep in mind that short lived fad was over by 69.
 
momoparman said:
If your going to go crazy then why not pull the sub frames and use a Dakota or s10 frame and make it high as a MAF. I'm trying to figure out what the benefit of having the car lifted up so high and all I can imagine is that you want to go off-roading. No insult intended....trying to think outside the box.
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I don't want to raise it ridiculously high, just an inch or inch and a half more.

treblig
 
C130 Chief said:
You can cut the rebound bump stop down a little. The adjusters should raise the car to the point that camber will go seriously negative. Shock extended length may become a factor.How are you raising the rear?Please explain why you want to do this. It sounds quite unsafe!!! If it's the dorky "gasser" look keep in mind that short lived fad was over by 69.
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Thanks for the comments, I've just never like cars sitting low to the ground. The rear does have some 12" wide 29" tall tires. I may not be able to do what I want if it's going to mess up my front end geometry. I was just wondering if there was a decent method of raising the front without cutting the fenders and going to a taller tire. If there's no way then I will trim the fenders. But I had to ask first.

Thanks, Treblig
 
Turn it into a solid axle gasser. Realistically though you could cut down the bump stops a little and keep cranking on the torsion bars.
 
DNasty777 said:
Turn it into a solid axle gasser. Realistically though you could cut down the bump stops a little and keep cranking on the torsion bars.
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I always loved the gasser look (most folks do) but I really don't want to go that high. The gasser look is still being used by Gas Monkey Garage so it isn't gone yet!! But I will look into cutting the bump stop and I appreciate not getting beat up for trying to get the stance I like...LOL!! I mean, I really don't like the "dragging on the ground" look or California style (almost low rider). I would never slam a car...maybe I'm just old school. Have you ever tried to get a jack under a car but couldn't because the front cross member was so close to the ground that you couldn't get the jack under it unless someone lifted up on one of the fenders?????

thanks Nasty777, and I'm still open to more ideas!!

Treblig
 
The 68 SS cars had modified steering arms. They were bent down and to
the inside to get proper handling as the front suspension lifted at speed. They also limited the how far the suspension could travel with spacers under the jounce bumper bolted
to the lower control arm and taller bumpers to limit the upper control arms travel.
I have read a few details about how this was done, I will have to look for it.
I believe they had to correct the steering for the spacers they added to lower the
K-frame for hood clearance to carbs. I may have some pictures if I can dig them up.
I won't question your reasoning with you raising the front end.
Infact I like them raised myself. Vintage drag cars always put a big smile on my face.
Not all cars are built to go fast around corners. Some need the oil pan and header clearance.
I believe modifying the upper control arm would get you there without bending the steering arms.
 
Treblig said:
Have you ever tried to get a jack under a car but couldn't because the front cross member was so close to the ground that you couldn't get the jack under it unless someone lifted up on one of the fenders?????

thanks Nasty777, and I'm still open to more ideas!!

Treblig
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Yes I have! On my old car, I had to keep a wooden "staircase" to drive the front tires on so I could fit a low profile jack under the frame rails!

I still think a gasser fish would be awesome!
 
ssba said:
The 68 SS cars had modified steering arms. They were bent down and tothe inside to get proper handling as the front suspension lifted at speed. They also limited the how far the suspension could travel with spacers under the jounce bumper boltedto the lower control arm and taller bumpers to limit the upper control arms travel. I have read a few details about how this was done, I will have to look for it. I believe they had to correct the steering for the spacers they added to lower theK-frame for hood clearance to carbs. I may have some pictures if I can dig them up. I won't question your reasoning with you raising the front end. Infact I like them raised myself. Vintage drag cars always put a big smile on my face. Not all cars are built to go fast around corners. Some need the oil pan and header clearance. I believe modifying the upper control arm would get you there without bending the steering arms.
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That would be great...I'm a machinist and a welder and I love a challenge!! I'm not looking to go road racing. I also wouldn't mind buying adjustable/modified aftermarket control arms either. If you can find anything that can help please post it.

thanks,
treblig
 
DNasty777 said:
Yes I have! On my old car, I had to keep a wooden "staircase" to drive the front tires on so I could fit a low profile jack under the frame rails!I still think a gasser fish would be awesome!
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A gasser fish would be totally awesome!!! But, alas, I can't afford that many modifications and I doubt that my wife would appreciate it. As it is she thinks I'm crazy with the 15 X 12 rims and tires!! I've got a picture in my head and my goal is to make my Barracuda look like that picture. thanks,Treblig Did anyone say this guy was CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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pauly v.100 said:
These.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=49927&highlight=raising+front+suspension
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Thanks Pauly, I don't know how you found that piece. And the price wasn't bad either. After all the discussion about what the item actually accomplishes, I believe that it would allow you to crank your torsion bars up an inch or so without hitting the bump stop. Unfortunately it's long gone!!! But at least you understand what I'm trying to accomplish. I'm not looking for 3 inches of lift or anything like that....just an inch or an inch and a half (maybe two inches, depending on how it looks).

thanks,
Gil
 
I jacked up the torsion bars on my 64 Sport Fury in 1978. Took it down the road at about 100 mph. The front
Of the car started bouncing off the road. Scared the living crappie outta me. Took it home, and have never done that again. Your results may vary.
 
I had the same experience on my 67 GTS back in the day. I had just jacked my torsion bars up and was trying it out when a guy I knew had a 442 Olds. He started to pass and I stepped on mine and put him back behind me then there was a slight curve in the road and air got under my front end and I almost went to the woods. When I got it under control I went back and lowered it back down. If you do it be careful until you find out how different it handles. I also liked the look, Joe
 
red67gts said:
I had the same experience on my 67 GTS back in the day. I had just jacked my torsion bars up and was trying it out when a guy I knew had a 442 Olds. He started to pass and I stepped on mine and put him back behind me then there was a slight curve in the road and air got under my front end and I almost went to the woods. When I got it under control I went back and lowered it back down. If you do it be careful until you find out how different it handles. I also liked the look, Joe
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I will certainly be careful, don't want my baby (Barracuda)to get hurt...LOL!!! Did you guys get a good alignment after you cranked up the torsion bars??? I know if you crank them up it changes the steering geometry and it would be dangerous without a good alignment. Those drag racers (back in the day) didn't seem to have much problem going in a straight line at 100-120-130MPH. Maybe somebody with years and years of experience (an old guy like me) can tell us more about handling with the front end jacked up a little??? I have no plans to go road racing or on a slalom run.

treblig
 
try a good sticky pair of slicks and about 500+ HP and 4.56 gears should get the front end lifted LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just kidding but had to say it!!!
 
dragondan64 said:
try a good sticky pair of slicks and about 500+ HP and 4.56 gears should get the front end lifted LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just kidding but had to say it!!!
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Yes, I'm sure it would raise the front end....END OVER END!!

Treblig
 
Wouldn't these allow the suspension to be raise without the limitation of the bump stop??

http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumforce_tubular_control_arms.htm

I remember correctly, the upper control arm has bump stop under it. If I switched to the arms at this website there would be nothing to keep the suspension from bottoming out (if the front end bounced up off the ground (not that it ever would)??? If you jacked the front end off the ground using the cross member wouldn't the wheels (suspension) extend way down a lot further than normal??

Treblig
 
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